frame question

briangoad said:

I'm trying to figure out what used frame to buy to swap over stuff off my current bike. Actually, right now I have two bikes - a '99 Stumpjumper Hardtail with a 100mm Marz and an '01 Rockhopper FSR-XC built up with pretty good parts (Hope wheels, XTR rear, Raceface cranks). Anyway, I really like the longer top tube of the Stumpjumper and find myself riding it even when the FSR would be more comfortable, I think it's the short top tube on the Rockhopper that makes the bike feel more twitchy.

Anyway, my goal is to find a used frame that I can swap most of the parts on the FSR over to without breaking the bank. The goal is better geometry and cheaper. I'm thinking of a Superlight frame, but would like some suggestions? Would Stumpjumper FSR's have the same geometry problems? A Blur frame is probably too much. If possible I'd like to get something with at least 4" of travel front and back.

Any thoughts?

Click to expand...

A Superlight or Blur is more stable riding than an FSR, even with a short top tube. Short top tube designs are better handling for more technical riding conditions. Other frames that are more stable without going to a long top tube and even more bump compliant with less pedal kickback are Horst link bikes from Titus, Turner, and Intense designs, and the Iron Horse Hollowpoint. Other more stable single pivot designs are the Jekyll, Yeti, and Ventana Pantera or any design with an adjustable platform shock.

However, you might try getting a higher quality stable platform rear shock on your FSR, such as a Manitou Swinger 3 or send the Float shock to Push Industries for a high quality rebuild. Improving shock quality would greatly reduce the twitchy feeling. Also a 100mm fork would slow steering, raise the BB for better pedal clearance and reduce the twitchness, but bob in the rear suspension more without using a platform or Push shock.

- ray