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Frame bearing replacement?

1947 Views 11 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  CU-Murph
I own a 2003 truth. 3000+ miles on it so far. This week I replaced the drive train components.

It got me to thinking. When do EW owners begin to think about new bearings for the frame? Mine seem to be tight, no play, no squeaks etc

What say you all?.
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Fenske said:
I own a 2003 truth. 3000+ miles on it so far. This week I replaced the drive train components.

It got me to thinking. When do EW owners begin to think about new bearings for the frame? Mine seem to be tight, no play, no squeaks etc

What say you all?.
Aluminum sexbolt welded itself to the bearing so its a lifetime bearing now. I'd say even if you are not going to check the bearing loosen the bolt and grease it every once in a while.
I check my bearings everytime I am in the woods so I don't get lost.:D

But seriously I check them probably twice a year. I have had to rework the front CS bearing on the drive side once. I think the bearings should be checked, if only by removing the CS and the rocker and moving the bearings with your fingers, at least once a year. If they feel rough then they need replacement. In my experiance I have found the drive side bearings do not last as long. Just as a note I am pretty anal about cleaning and caring for my bike. I tear it down completely then wash and inspect each part after 10 or so rides.
feel rough???

coldsteele said:
I check my bearings everytime I am in the woods so I don't get lost.:D

But seriously I check them probably twice a year. I have had to rework the front CS bearing on the drive side once. I think the bearings should be checked, if only by removing the CS and the rocker and moving the bearings with your fingers, at least once a year. If they feel rough then they need replacement. In my experiance I have found the drive side bearings do not last as long. Just as a note I am pretty anal about cleaning and caring for my bike. I tear it down completely then wash and inspect each part after 10 or so rides.
when bearings start feeling rough, i work them in with my cordless drill at low speed after cleaning them up and stuffing them with Ellsworth Honey or any other good quality grease...

after this treatment bearings are smooth lika butta' again... i suspect they should last at least 3 if not more years with proper maintenance (thoroughly cleaning and re-lubing twice per year in my experience)
How do you guys go about opening up the shields on the sealed bearings? Is there an easy method?
pivots

How does one know when to have the bushings replaced or serviced on older Truth's ? And when they do need servicing,do they have to be totally replaced from scratch ? Is there any small maintenance that can be performed to lengthen the lifespan of the bushings? I notice after riding in the rain,the pivots start to sqeak,just a little,for a few hours or so afterwards,but it soon after goes away,and cannot be heard.
the finest screwdriver

ahimanic said:
How do you guys go about opening up the shields on the sealed bearings? Is there an easy method?
and do it from inside diameter... just push screwdriver in and pull the shield out...

you can push out the other shield through the bearings - carefully...
Tarbaby4Ever said:
How does one know when to have the bushings replaced or serviced on older Truth's ? And when they do need servicing,do they have to be totally replaced from scratch ? Is there any small maintenance that can be performed to lengthen the lifespan of the bushings? I notice after riding in the rain,the pivots start to sqeak,just a little,for a few hours or so afterwards,but it soon after goes away,and cannot be heard.
Ells recommends replacing all the bushings when you service them. They sell the bushing kits before but dunno about now. They were around $75 I think.

There are some instructions in the Ells website on bushing maintenance. At the minimum you need to get the bushing grease from Ells. It's very thick. Ells states that the use of wrong grease will contaminate the bushings and lead to terrible sqeaking.

I have re-lubed with just the Ells grease and did not replace the bushings. The bike worked fine. I would go that route first. If there's no slop or indexing in the rear triangle I don't think you need to replace the bushings.
ahimanic said:
Ells recommends replacing all the bushings when you service them. They sell the bushing kits before but dunno about now. They were around $75 I think.

There are some instructions in the Ells website on bushing maintenance. At the minimum you need to get the bushing grease from Ells. It's very thick. Ells states that the use of wrong grease will contaminate the bushings and lead to terrible sqeaking.

I have re-lubed with just the Ells grease and did not replace the bushings. The bike worked fine. I would go that route first. If there's no slop or indexing in the rear triangle I don't think you need to replace the bushings.
'or indexing in the rear triangle' What do you mean by this? I am not sure I understand you
Tarbaby4Ever said:
'or indexing in the rear triangle' What do you mean by this? I am not sure I understand you
To see if the pivots are "notchy" at any particular spot.

The easiest way to do this is probably by letting out all the air in the shock and cycle the suspension through its full travel. Grab the individual stays and pieces to move horizontally to see if anything has excessive play.
ahimanic said:
To see if the pivots are "notchy" at any particular spot.

The easiest way to do this is probably by letting out all the air in the shock and cycle the suspension through its full travel. Grab the individual stays and pieces to move horizontally to see if anything has excessive play.
What if I dont have a air shock though ? I am still using the Stratos Helix Expert,I have a Cane Creek C9 and a set of Terros Disc wheels coming soon,but until then its this heavy
monstrosity,which works and ok at that,dont get me wrong,its just that its a little stiff is all.I will be off the bike soon as I have to send in my Helix to get in on the trade in program Cane Creek offers.But for 445 its a great deal,a new set of good quality and fairly light disc wheels,and a shock which will take off just a hair over half a pound.I want to get this thing under 25 pounds with disc brakes wothout spending a fortune :cool:
To access the bearing inners, do you have to remove them from frame? Thanks.
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