[thwang-01]

hi all
a bit of back ground i,ve been wanting to build a frame for a few years now and im not getting any younger so i think its time to take the plunge. i,ve bought and repaired quite a few frames now 3 steel and 6 ally ones but for my own frame i want fast twitchy handling i,ve been playing with angles in cad and like the look of 72 deg ST and 70/71deg HT i will be using a 420mm suspension fork and the head tube will be 100mm TT c2c will be 584mm actual should i go steeper on the head angle.
thwang

 

[Walt]

Only one way to find out...

Build it!

I mean, how do those numbers compare to other bikes you've ridden? "Twitchy" is a pretty subjective term - nobody is going to be able to tell you if you'll like the fit/handling/whatever when the bike doesn't exist yet. You just have to take the plunge and find out!

And if you don't like it, by the time you're done building the first one, you'll want to build another anyway.

-Walt

hi all
a bit of back ground i,ve been wanting to build a frame for a few years now and im not getting any younger so i think its time to take the plunge. i,ve bought and repaired quite a few frames now 3 steel and 6 ally ones but for my own frame i want fast twitchy handling i,ve been playing with angles in cad and like the look of 72 deg ST and 70/71deg HT i will be using a 420mm suspension fork and the head tube will be 100mm TT c2c will be 584mm actual should i go steeper on the head angle.
thwang

 

[Smokebikes]

Like Walt said................but for "twitchy", don't forget to make the chain stay & wheel base short and the BB about even with the axles.

 

[Evil4bc]

Like Walt said................but for "twitchy", don't forget to make the chain stay & wheel base short and the BB about even with the axles.

Shorter chainstays , too much minimal BB drop rasises the BB to ground too much and the bikes balance point becomes comprimised and the bike feels unstable at low speeds .

I'd suggest a 73- 73.50 SA , 72-72.50 HA ( built straight on for your Axle to crown measurment ) with about 25mm to 30mm of BB drop in back .
Pretty straight forward MTB geo , mated with a shorter rear end ( I'd suggest something like 15.35-15.50 ) and this thing should be a responsive rocket off road . :thumbsup:

 

[thwang-01]

thanks guys for the replys been into work this morning to order some alloy extrusion for the jig and to price a new tig welder for home use as i only have a mig at home.
thwang

 

[Smokebikes]

Just for the sake of discussion and comparison............thawg, why are you leaning towards TIG? I'm not trying to start a better than worse than thread........about welding processes (really... ), it would just be cool to see how different folks start out and what considerations go into the choice............cost vs. skill. When I started, I took a welding processes class and tried my hand at four different types (stick, TIG, MIG, and brazing) so I had some idea at what I could do most effectively. Over time I see that TIG seems to be the "cleanest" in terms of not needing to use flux, no soot flying all over the place when sparking it up, and over all clean up of the product........but for brazing, the initial set up cost much less and it is a little more forgiving when your first learning ("ATMO"- )........less blow through and your miters can be a little less than perfect. :thumbsup:

 

[thwang-01]

hi used to love brazing at collage i hadnt given it mush thourgh tig wise we have them at work so i was going to tack it up at home then weld it up at work.
thwang