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Do It Yourself
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5,720 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had a couple of request for this soooo....

My original post:
https://forums13.consumerreview.com/[email protected]@.efc65bd

Disclaimer:
I'm sure this is NOT authorized by Fox Racing Shox and will most likely void any remaining warranty. So this is for entertainment purposes only, don't try this at home, professional driver on closed course, void where prohibited, and consult your doctor before proceeding. This is not for the mechanically squeamish.

Obviously you'll need to remove the damper from the focked Fox fork and drain the oil including the oil in the reservoir. The next step is to remove the reservoir tube (gray cylinder on the bottom of the unit). This was pretty tricky. I put the unit in a vise clamped on the hex nut on top of the reservoir leaving the reservoir hanging out. I cleaned the reservoir very well with degreaser and used a rubber jar opening pad to twist it off. Be careful that the unit doesn't slip.


Once removed, check the tube for a small screw as it may have fallen out. Mine was still in place but it sounds like John's was in the reservoir. You don't want to loose this screw or you'll be screwed. Set the reservoir aside.


The next step may be optional depending on how long of a 1.5mm allen you have laying around. My Park AWS-10 wasn't long enough to reach the screw so I had to remove the compression (I think) damping valve on the bottom of the shaft. To do this you'll need 9mm and 10mm box wrenches. The 9mm wrench goes on the flat spots near the bottom of the shaft and the 10mm wrench goes on the hex shaped valve at the very bottom. Be very careful when removing this because the shims and springs need to be replaced in the exact same position or the fork will not function properly. The part that has the larger hex nut on it can just be pulled off or pushed out of the way. If you have a Vanilla, it would be easiest to remove it and the spring at this time.



Next you'll want to remove the red knob with a 2.5mm allen. Another small screw so be careful. Then you'll want to remove the detent ball which is the little 2mm allen screw in the shaft underneath the threads of the top cap. Even more small parts (screw, spring, ball). At this point you should be able to pull the rod that the red knob was attached to. Voila! The damper is finally apart enough to fix it. There is a light at the end of this tunnel.


Then you just need to reassemble. My original problem was the bottom screw fell out. The next time I made sure the rebound adjuster was working properly before reassembly. What I did was just get the screw started then fully insert the rod so it was seated properly and then tighten it back up. It's now back together and working fine.
 

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The Ancient One
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1,573 Posts
Thanks for posting this.

I recently bought a new damper for my Vanilla R. I wanted the improved compression damping over the original. I got an RL direct from Fox. From the beginning it had no clicks or stops when adjusting the rebound. If I tried to use the lockout I would change the rebound setting.

Anyway, after looking at your pics, I saw where the detent ball went and played around with the tightness of the little allen set screw and now it's all fixed.
 

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Registered
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40 Posts
It should not be your task!!

What you posted is what FOX MUST publish on its website.

I own a Float RLC that went in today for service (under warranty, I hope). But if I take a look at the User Guide, the Italian version (yes, I do speak italian) is an automatic translation. UNREADABLE!!!

Why did they not publish some slides with the most ordinary maintenace proceduces ?
- Travel Change
- Oil change
- Sealing change.

Thank you for your post.
 

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Registered
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1,978 Posts
Homebrew said:
My original problem was the bottom screw fell out. The next time I made sure the rebound adjuster was working properly before reassembly. What I did was just get the screw started then fully insert the rod so it was seated properly and then tighten it back up. It's now back together and working fine.
Are there any other symptoms besides the screw falling out? Reason I ask is because my rebound adjustment knob now only goes 3 clicks in either direction. :mad:

Lou.
 

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Do It Yourself
Joined
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5,720 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
upstateSC-rider said:
Are there any other symptoms besides the screw falling out?QUOTE]

If you read through my original post, the issue I had was the rebound adjustment knob popped up about 1/2" spewing oil out the top. Without the screw, the adjustment rod was only held in by the detent ball. If you had this problem, you would know it.

Regarding your fork, it's hard to say without looking at it. You should definitely have more than 3 clicks though, more like 12. Does the rebound still slow down when you click it?
 

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Registered
Joined
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1,978 Posts
Homebrew said:
upstateSC-rider said:
Are there any other symptoms besides the screw falling out?QUOTE]

If you read through my original post, the issue I had was the rebound adjustment knob popped up about 1/2" spewing oil out the top. Without the screw, the adjustment rod was only held in by the detent ball. If you had this problem, you would know it.

Regarding your fork, it's hard to say without looking at it. You should definitely have more than 3 clicks though, more like 12. Does the rebound still slow down when you click it?
Found the problem...When I last put them together I used a 1" impact socket on a short 1/2" ratchet. It gripped fine but the beveled edge of the inside of the socket didn't grip until the top part of the cap. This caused the machined circle (where the knob goes down in) to collapse a little. I was able to file the circle back into shape. Hope this makes sense. And remember kids, the right tool for the right job. :D

Lou.
 

·
Do It Yourself
Joined
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5,720 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Repost with pics

Disclaimer:
I'm sure this is NOT authorized by Fox Racing Shox and will most likely void any remaining warranty. So this is for entertainment purposes only, don't try this at home, professional driver on closed course, void where prohibited, and consult your doctor before proceeding. This is not for the mechanically squeamish.

Obviously you'll need to remove the damper from the focked Fox fork and drain the oil including the oil in the reservoir. The next step is to remove the reservoir tube (gray cylinder on the bottom of the unit). This was pretty tricky. I put the unit in a vise clamped on the hex nut on top of the reservoir leaving the reservoir hanging out. I cleaned the reservoir very well with degreaser and used a rubber jar opening pad to twist it off. Be careful that the unit doesn't slip.



Once removed, check the tube for a small screw as it may have fallen out. Mine was still in place but it sounds like John's was in the reservoir. You don't want to loose this screw or you'll be screwed. Set the reservoir aside.



The next step may be optional depending on how long of a 1.5mm allen you have laying around. My Park AWS-10 wasn't long enough to reach the screw so I had to remove the compression (I think) damping valve on the bottom of the shaft. To do this you'll need 9mm and 10mm box wrenches. The 9mm wrench goes on the flat spots near the bottom of the shaft and the 10mm wrench goes on the hex shaped valve at the very bottom. Be very careful when removing this because the shims and springs need to be replaced in the exact same position or the fork will not function properly. The part that has the larger hex nut on it can just be pulled off or pushed out of the way. If you have a Vanilla, it would be easiest to remove it and the spring at this time.





Next you'll want to remove the red knob with a 2.5mm allen. Another small screw so be careful. Then you'll want to remove the detent ball which is the little 2mm allen screw in the shaft underneath the threads of the top cap. Even more small parts (screw, spring, ball). At this point you should be able to pull the rod that the red knob was attached to. Voila! The damper is finally apart enough to fix it. There is a light at the end of this tunnel.





Then you just need to reassemble. My original problem was the bottom screw fell out. The next time I made sure the rebound adjuster was working properly before reassembly. What I did was just get the screw started then fully insert the rod so it was seated properly and then tighten it back up. It's now back together and working fine.

 
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