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Had a chance to replace the seals in both of these forks this weekend. One older F80X and a newer F100X. Both were leaking from the right hand seal, both had lost some of their lock out...
We started on the F80X and found it easy to dissassemble. The system Fox uses on the bottom shaft (on bottom of the lowers) is a joke. When you turn the nut the entire shaft wants to turn and there is no way to prevent its turning. Enduro mentions this on their website. Why fox did not put an allen fitting on either the inside air piston or the bottom shaft is beyond me (plain stupidity). Once the air side was apart, the inertia side came apart nearly as easy. No real problems to report other than a very noticable amount of wear on the damper rod in the inertia unit. (Both forks had this same wear, heavy wear that could easly be seen and felt) It only occurs on the front of the rod as this is where it binds (I assume?). After reading the fox manual and prombtly throwing it away (as it is pure crap cake) we started rebulding. We completely cleaned the forks out (WD-40) and cycled the damper to ge the old fluid out of it. Take the old seals out, put the new seals in. The seals go in pretty easy, but not as easy as Enduro makes it out. The bottom seal is a VERY tight fit.
1. Fill up the air side first - we made this mistake the first time.
2. We inverted the fork and filled the bottom of the air side with 30-40cc of 7.5 wt motorcycle suspension fluid, then tighten the bottom nut.
3. We then filled the top of the air side (on top of the piston) with a 5-10cc mix of Manitou Prep M and the suspension fluid to create a heavier weight "Pillow Pack" (or whatever fox calls it). Then tighten the top cap.
4. then on to the inertia side, First tighten the bottom nut, Then fill the top with 150cc fork fluid while cycling the damper. Tighten the top cap.
DONE!
The seals work and the lock out appears to work better, won't get a chance to MTB till the weekend so we shall see. The fork felt real good after rebuild - but will need a full ride to report.
In conclusion - I am amazed at how much wear my relatively new F100X had inside of it. Fox needs to work on this. I am not suprised at all that so many people lose the lock out in the first few months, especially with heavy use. These forks are not worth 700 bucks, once you see whats inside of them. (I got mine as OEM on a Weyless SP, so thank god I did not pay that much)
Cia
We started on the F80X and found it easy to dissassemble. The system Fox uses on the bottom shaft (on bottom of the lowers) is a joke. When you turn the nut the entire shaft wants to turn and there is no way to prevent its turning. Enduro mentions this on their website. Why fox did not put an allen fitting on either the inside air piston or the bottom shaft is beyond me (plain stupidity). Once the air side was apart, the inertia side came apart nearly as easy. No real problems to report other than a very noticable amount of wear on the damper rod in the inertia unit. (Both forks had this same wear, heavy wear that could easly be seen and felt) It only occurs on the front of the rod as this is where it binds (I assume?). After reading the fox manual and prombtly throwing it away (as it is pure crap cake) we started rebulding. We completely cleaned the forks out (WD-40) and cycled the damper to ge the old fluid out of it. Take the old seals out, put the new seals in. The seals go in pretty easy, but not as easy as Enduro makes it out. The bottom seal is a VERY tight fit.
1. Fill up the air side first - we made this mistake the first time.
2. We inverted the fork and filled the bottom of the air side with 30-40cc of 7.5 wt motorcycle suspension fluid, then tighten the bottom nut.
3. We then filled the top of the air side (on top of the piston) with a 5-10cc mix of Manitou Prep M and the suspension fluid to create a heavier weight "Pillow Pack" (or whatever fox calls it). Then tighten the top cap.
4. then on to the inertia side, First tighten the bottom nut, Then fill the top with 150cc fork fluid while cycling the damper. Tighten the top cap.
DONE!
The seals work and the lock out appears to work better, won't get a chance to MTB till the weekend so we shall see. The fork felt real good after rebuild - but will need a full ride to report.
In conclusion - I am amazed at how much wear my relatively new F100X had inside of it. Fox needs to work on this. I am not suprised at all that so many people lose the lock out in the first few months, especially with heavy use. These forks are not worth 700 bucks, once you see whats inside of them. (I got mine as OEM on a Weyless SP, so thank god I did not pay that much)
Cia