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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so, I changed my seals and fluids in my 2009 FOX F29 and now my lockout is not working. I have the setting so the lock out is at 6 oclock, like the manual says, so it should work. Anybody have any ideas? I was wondering if too much fluid would cause this. The amount that I drained was nowhere near the FOX specified volumes. Thanks for any help.
 

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In the open position, cycle the fork up and down a couple of dozen times. You might not have enough oil in the damper....then lock it out. See if this bring it back. If not its what the former post states. The rod should be turned clockwise before reattaching the lockout lever.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes, the lockout was full clockwise, which the lever points to 6 o'clock, or towrds the rear. I tried to cycle it a few dozen times, maybe I need some additional cycles. Thanks.
 

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The lockout failure with the fox f29 is somewhat common. It may not even have to do with your fluid change. Mine didn't work right out of the box. I've read similar stories. Basically, I just rode my bike for about a mile and it began working. I didn't have a problem with it after that until it sat this past off season. I took it out for the first time yesterday and, again, no lockout. I suspect after I do about a mile of riding it will come back again. I'm not sure what the issue is, but, again, I've heard about this same problem and same solution to the problem numerous times. Try that out.
 

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In my experience, lock-outs on forks don't generally tend to work because of a lack of oil, not too much, you will loose travel if there's too much oil.

OK, I've never serviced a Fox fork, but have done loads of Rebas and my Minute and recently researched doing Fox, here's some thoughts. By seals I guess you mean the actual seals the stanchions run through into the lowers - For this you'd not need to touch anythig to do with the lockout. Once you're done with doing that, then you should have the fork all back together and then remove the internals from the right leg containing all the dampening and change the fluid. When you go to refill the oil you need to put a bit in first, and then cycle the fork to make sure the damper is filled up and no air trapped then fill the rest of the way to the specified height.
 

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LyNx said:
In my experience, lock-outs on forks don't generally tend to work because of a lack of oil, not too much, you will loose travel if there's too much oil.

OK, I've never serviced a Fox fork, but have done loads of Rebas and my Minute and recently researched doing Fox, here's some thoughts. By seals I guess you mean the actual seals the stanchions run through into the lowers - For this you'd not need to touch anythig to do with the lockout. Once you're done with doing that, then you should have the fork all back together and then remove the internals from the right leg containing all the dampening and change the fluid. When you go to refill the oil you need to put a bit in first, and then cycle the fork to make sure the damper is filled up and no air trapped then fill the rest of the way to the specified height.
If you've never done a fox fork why did you offer advice? That is completely wacky way of doing a rebuild. If your going to do the seals you are going to change the oil as well, just take the whole thing apart from top to bottom and get it cleaned out and back together.

To the OP, if the lockout was fully clockwise before you reattached the lever and you have cycled the fork a few times, and it still doesn't work the problem is in the damper itself. I haven't experienced the problem that psuambasador stated but it seems like a pretty easy fix, give it a try before you tear the fork apart again. That problem would make sense if you are dealing with a FIT damper that needs to be bleed and you have a little air left in there that is going to affect the lockout.
 

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Because I felt like :rolleyes: :nono: Because I have done a load of other forks and had recently read up on doing the Foxs and as far as I understood there isn't much differnece in the servicing/changing of oil to other forks. Maybe I mis-understood, but sure didn't seem that way as the instructions were very straight forward.
As to why I'd do things piece by piece, because that way you can keep things seperate and just deal with one part of the fork at a time, this way if something goes wonnky it's easier to isolate where things went wrong because you tested it each time/section.

customfab said:
If you've never done a fox fork why did you offer advice? That is completely wacky way of doing a rebuild. If your going to do the seals you are going to change the oil as well, just take the whole thing apart from top to bottom and get it cleaned out and back together.

To the OP, if the lockout was fully clockwise before you reattached the lever and you have cycled the fork a few times, and it still doesn't work the problem is in the damper itself. I haven't experienced the problem that psuambasador stated but it seems like a pretty easy fix, give it a try before you tear the fork apart again. That problem would make sense if you are dealing with a FIT damper that needs to be bleed and you have a little air left in there that is going to affect the lockout.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
customfab said:
If you've never done a fox fork why did you offer advice? That is completely wacky way of doing a rebuild. If your going to do the seals you are going to change the oil as well, just take the whole thing apart from top to bottom and get it cleaned out and back together.

To the OP, if the lockout was fully clockwise before you reattached the lever and you have cycled the fork a few times, and it still doesn't work the problem is in the damper itself. I haven't experienced the problem that psuambasador stated but it seems like a pretty easy fix, give it a try before you tear the fork apart again. That problem would make sense if you are dealing with a FIT damper that needs to be bleed and you have a little air left in there that is going to affect the lockout.
I'm unsure but almost positive I do not have a fit damper. There is not an air valve on the damper side of the fork.
 

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Litemike said:
I'm unsure but almost positive I do not have a fit damper. There is not an air valve on the damper side of the fork.
there shouldn't be. If you had a Fit damper it will have FIT stickers right below the arch and there would have been a black rubber below that contained the shock fluid when you opened it up.
 
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