I don’t believe either the Grip or Grip 2 are tunable due to their design.
Fox 38 Grip2 VVC vs. Custom Tuned Grip1
Rider info: 6’7, 240lbs, aggressive rider, occasionally race enduro, socal trails
Bike setup: transition sentinel v2, 170mm fox 38 grip2 vvc
fork setup (clicks from fully closed):
128psi 0 tokens
HSR: 1
LSR: 4
HSC: 6
LSC: 10
For my riding style and weight, would the grip2 with a face shim be better, or more beneficial to go with a grip1 and custom tune it? Currently riding a fox 38 performance with a grip2 dropped in. No real complaints yet, way better than the lyrik I was running before. Just a tinkerer so I’m curious what everyone’s opinions are. Using a good bit of travel (possibly too much sometimes) on the 38 and notice brake dive.
1) put a face shim in the grip2 to get the brake dive under control (~$100)
2) buy a takeoff grip damper, custom tune it, and sell the grip2 (break even-ish after selling grip2)
3) something that I haven’t thought about but am open to
what say the experts here?
Bike setup: transition sentinel v2, 170mm fox 38 grip2 vvc
fork setup (clicks from fully closed):
128psi 0 tokens
HSR: 1
LSR: 4
HSC: 6
LSC: 10
For my riding style and weight, would the grip2 with a face shim be better, or more beneficial to go with a grip1 and custom tune it? Currently riding a fox 38 performance with a grip2 dropped in. No real complaints yet, way better than the lyrik I was running before. Just a tinkerer so I’m curious what everyone’s opinions are. Using a good bit of travel (possibly too much sometimes) on the 38 and notice brake dive.
1) put a face shim in the grip2 to get the brake dive under control (~$100)
2) buy a takeoff grip damper, custom tune it, and sell the grip2 (break even-ish after selling grip2)
3) something that I haven’t thought about but am open to
what say the experts here?
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Out of curiosity, why so little compression? I am 100lb lighter than you and run my HSC at 3, and my LSC at 7 and my fork isn't harsh.
I can't help but think that adding some compression will take care of some of your complaints.
I can't help but think that adding some compression will take care of some of your complaints.
Assuming the person working on your fork knows what they're doing I think a custom damper should out perform an OEM product every time.
There’s a few suspension shops around me that have had luck tuning both, or so I’m told.I don’t believe either the Grip or Grip 2 are tunable due to their design.
Similar to the stuff here, technically I guess both would be custom tuned (grip2 less so): Fox 40 VVC set up
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yea I still need to try more compression. This is more of a “I like to tinker” thought experimentOut of curiosity, why so little compression? I am 100lb lighter than you and run my HSC at 3, and my LSC at 7 and my fork isn't harsh.
I can't help but think that adding some compression will take care of some of your complaints.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You're running some pretty aggressive rebound, I'd open that up a bit and add more LSC, that will keep the fork up in it's travel and give you better support.
You think, even with my weight? The HSR is at the fox recommendation, the LSR is actually a few clicks faster than what fox recommends for my weight.You're running some pretty aggressive rebound, I'd open that up a bit and add more LSC, that will keep the fork up in it's travel and give you better support.
Definitely willing to mess with it though, thanks for the feedback
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
There's some great video's on how to properly set up the grip damper. It's a complicated damper, took me a while before I got it right. Try opening up HSR 2 clicks and close LSC 2 clicks. That should stop the fork from packing up over chatter and help with the brake dive. If the fork feel harsh, open HSC 2 clicks. I weigh 210 and run with HSC almost all the way open, I'm on a 36 with a Grip2.You think, even with my weight? The HSR is at the fox recommendation, the LSR is actually a few clicks faster than what fox recommends for my weight.
Definitely willing to mess with it though, thanks for the feedback
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Grip2 or grip2 vvc?There's some great video's on how to properly set up the grip damper. It's a complicated damper, took me a while before I got it right. Try opening up HSR 2 clicks and close LSC 2 clicks. That should stop the fork from packing up over chatter and help with the brake dive. If the fork feel harsh, open HSC 2 clicks. I weigh 210 and run with HSC almost all the way open, I'm on a 36 with a Grip2.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Grip2Grip2 or grip2 vvc?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Gotcha. I think the grip2 vvc has much less of a range of adjustments, I’ll try out your suggestions and see how it goes!Grip2
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Tuned GRIP1 is going to be massively better, especially at your weight. That said custom tuning results depend entirely on the tuner and how they approach a tune.
GRIP2 VVC has very little compression damping and takes a lot of custom parts to be properly tunable. Stock they have 4mm ID shims and the more shims you fit the less your LSC works.
GRIP2 VVC has very little compression damping and takes a lot of custom parts to be properly tunable. Stock they have 4mm ID shims and the more shims you fit the less your LSC works.
GRIP doesn't have HSR/LSR. Just the one dial.There's some great video's on how to properly set up the grip damper. It's a complicated damper, took me a while before I got it right. Try opening up HSR 2 clicks and close LSC 2 clicks. That should stop the fork from packing up over chatter and help with the brake dive. If the fork feel harsh, open HSC 2 clicks. I weigh 210 and run with HSC almost all the way open, I'm on a 36 with a Grip2.
Can the grip 1 be easily tuned unlike the grip2 vvc?Tuned GRIP1 is going to be massively better, especially at your weight. That said custom tuning results depend entirely on the tuner and how they approach a tune.
GRIP2 VVC has very little compression damping and takes a lot of custom parts to be properly tunable. Stock they have 4mm ID shims and the more shims you fit the less your LSC works.
GRIP doesn't have HSR/LSR. Just the one dial.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
can you explain why adding more shims you fit the less your LSC works? Seems they have enough spacer shims to swap some out for either more face shims or possibly even more of the leaf spring shims. Wouldn’t this keep the piston and bolt in the same location so LSC would not be effected?Tuned GRIP1 is going to be massively better, especially at your weight. That said custom tuning results depend entirely on the tuner and how they approach a tune.
GRIP2 VVC has very little compression damping and takes a lot of custom parts to be properly tunable. Stock they have 4mm ID shims and the more shims you fit the less your LSC works.
GRIP doesn't have HSR/LSR. Just the one dial.
Sort of. They're both extremely sensitive to preload and 0.05mm change can double/halve your damping forces.Can the grip 1 be easily tuned unlike the grip2 vvc?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You can't swap spacer shims for big shims because the VVC preload collar is in the way.can you explain why adding more shims you fit the less your LSC works? Seems they have enough spacer shims to swap some out for either more face shims or possibly even more of the leaf spring shims. Wouldn’t this keep the piston and bolt in the same location so LSC would not be effected?
It's like they designed the GRIP2 VVC to only ever have one tune.
Don’t the leaf spring shims sit on top of this collar and aren’t they .10 thick just as the spacer shims behind them? I thought the leaf spring shims and where they contact the preload collar is what is changing the HSC. Stock there are two, couldn’t you add another while removing a spacer shim? I’m not seeing in the manual or diagram where the interference is.Sort of. They're both extremely sensitive to preload and 0.05mm change can double/halve your damping forces.
You can't swap spacer shims for big shims because the VVC preload collar is in the way.
It's like they designed the GRIP2 VVC to only ever have one tune.
HSC is the shim stack and the preload from the fingers. The preload cup really limits what you can fit and extra preload really brings the suck.Don’t the leaf spring shims sit on top of this collar and aren’t they .10 thick just as the spacer shims behind them? I thought the leaf spring shims and where they contact the preload collar is what is changing the HSC. Stock there are two, couldn’t you add another while removing a spacer shim? I’m not seeing in the manual or diagram where the interference is.
I guess I haven’t had mine apart yet to really see but I thought the whole concept is there is no or limited preload on the stack and when turning the preload cup or fingers (I’m not actually sure what part moves yet as I haven’t pulled it apart) then your only changing where it contacts on the fingers but not changing preload. This obviously changes the leverage the plate has against the fingers and in effect changes the force required to lift them which is your HSC. So in images there is a fat stack of spacer shims behind the finger (leaf) shims. How would removing one and adding another finger shim change the preload at all? Wouldn‘t this only effect how much force is require to lift them (increasing HSC)?HSC is the shim stack and the preload from the fingers. The preload cup really limits what you can fit and extra preload really brings the suck.
Fingers have a set preload, but the force you get from that changes with the moving point of contact.I guess I haven’t had mine apart yet to really see but I thought the whole concept is there is no or limited preload on the stack and when turning the preload cup or fingers (I’m not actually sure what part moves yet as I haven’t pulled it apart) then your only changing where it contacts on the fingers but not changing preload. This obviously changes the leverage the plate has against the fingers and in effect changes the force required to lift them which is your HSC. So in images there is a fat stack of spacer shims behind the finger (leaf) shims. How would removing one and adding another finger shim change the preload at all? Wouldn‘t this only effect how much force is require to lift them (increasing HSC)?
This changes the stiffness and preload force the fingers add to the shim stack.
The system is extremely sensitive to preload. Even more so on the Float X2 shock with VVC as the fingers are much much stiffer.
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Mountain Bike Reviews Forum
A forum community dedicated to Mountain Bike owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about bike parts, components, deals, performance, modifications, classifieds, trails, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Top Contributors this Month
View All
ilmfat
859 Replies
DIRTJUNKIE
440 Replies
Sparticus
382 Replies
Recommended Communities
