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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I've got my parts to make this conversion. Having a friend in the machine shop I'd like to shorten the float piston rod before installing.
Any suggestions as to how much shorter? I don't mind adjusting chamber size with lube.

Looks like some say 10mm, some 20-30mm. I'd like to just do it once.

Also I can't find any text or diagrams showing the orientation of the negative spring plate. (it's really a cup, replaces the main seal in the tube.) Found the 32 but that one is not the same at all.

Cheers!
 

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Biking Like Crazy!
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Thinking of doing this mod at the end of the year also. What do the parts cost?

Also curious why you want to modify the air volume before you try it?:confused:
 

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blcman said:
Also curious why you want to modify the air volume before you try it?:confused:
^this

and I would only start with 5-10 mm at MOST just because that will drastically change the feel of the fork an If you take too much off you can't put it back on but if you go to little you can take more off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
blcman said:
Thinking of doing this mod at the end of the year also. What do the parts cost?

Also curious why you want to modify the air volume before you try it?:confused:
The parts were about 85.00 after shipping.
At least for my year there is no bottom out piston in the FIT cart for TALAS and Float. The Vanilla has it. Fox had the air chambers spring rate ramp up quickly for these because of that. You can shorten the float piston shaft then fine tune with oil on top of the float piston.

I'm sure I could try it first.
 

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Hey fermenter (like your tag btw lol),

post what you end up doing to the float cartridge! :cool:
 

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tyler243 said:
and I would only start with 5-10 mm at MOST just because that will drastically change the feel of the fork an If you take too much off you can't put it back on but if you go to little you can take more off.
Actually, you kind of can by simply adding more oil to the air chamber. It's roughly 1cc per mm of shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
bad mechanic said:
Actually, you kind of can by simply adding more oil to the air chamber. It's roughly 1cc per mm of shaft.
That's the plan!

I was hoping you would chime in. Anything about the spring plate (cup) orientation?

I decided an a touch over 10mm, .400" that is. I'll start with the stock 5cc of oil and can add from there by just pulling the top cap.
 

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I'm also interested in this conversion. What year is your Talas and does anyone know if the conversion procedure is the same from year to to year? My fork is a 2011 Talas.
 

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dcb said:
I'm also interested in this conversion. What year is your Talas and does anyone know if the conversion procedure is the same from year to to year? My fork is a 2011 Talas.
From what I have read on other posts Fox changed the thread size of the top caps at least on the RC2 side so it won't fit into the RLT side of newer 2011 forks.

The threads might be different on the Talas/Float side also! That wouldn't stop you from getting a 2011 Float cartridge though if it is different! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
blcman said:
From what I have read on other posts Fox changed the thread size of the top caps at least on the RC2 side so it won't fit into the RLT side of newer 2011 forks.

The threads might be different on the Talas/Float side also! That wouldn't stop you from getting a 2011 Float cartridge though if it is different! ;)
I'm doing a 2009. I told the guy the model and year when I ordered the stuff. The float air shaft I got was labeled 2007.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
bad mechanic said:
I'm not sure I understand what you mean by spring plate.
Inside the botton of the stantion tube is a seal for the TALAS cart sealing off the lowers. That needs to be removed and a negitive spring plate installed in it's place. The 32 forks have a grove or steped side that goes up. The 36 plate is a cup like you see in alot of forks. It will likely go cup pointing up like some other forks.
 

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can anyone point me to a thread to mod my 32mm 2007 talas to a float. And if you got parts #s I'll take those 2 :)

BTW...did the mod to shorten the piston rod 10mm on my 120 float and it worked really well
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
granpa said:
can anyone point me to a thread to mod my 32mm 2007 talas to a float. And if you got parts #s I'll take those 2 :)

BTW...did the mod to shorten the piston rod 10mm on my 120 float and it worked really well
granpa! thanks for that. I went with that.
Your part numbers will not be the same as mine but you can call and ask.
I'm assuming what you need here:
float plunger assy.
float top cap
bottom foot nut float side???? I bought one.
negitive spring plate
crush washers for both foot nuts
Retaining ring/s for spring plate (possibly you can use the ones from the seal.)

Fox lubes or your favorite lubes.

Cheers!
 

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Hey fermenter or granpa,

how is the air shaft shortened?

Can it be cut with a hacksaw or does it need to be machined down?

I just ordered the Float kit and I might want to do this mod!

Thanks!:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
blcman said:
Hey fermenter or granpa,

how is the air shaft shortened?

Can it be cut with a hacksaw or does it need to be machined down?

I just ordered the Float kit and I might want to do this mod!

Thanks!:)
OK, when I looked into it I think people have done it by hand with a hack saw, one person reported if you cut it crooked the plastic plunger will scrape the sides of the tube...as you could imagine nott good. I'm lucky to have a friend in a shop, he mounted the shaft into a collet with a square housing and held it in a vice for drilling. The operation was done on a "Bridgeport" like machining center. Then the tube was cut shorter on a lathe.
You don't need all that, but I think it is important to have the cut off reasonbly square, the holes (as the shaft is a tube) also square and correct diameter. Also you want to remove the same amount off the end as the amount you moved the hole.
The spring/roll pin that holds the plunger was easy to remove with a punch.

Could you shorten the tube with a common plumbing tubing cutter? I think so.
Could I have drilled the holes square by hand????

I'm ready to start working on my fork but now am considering painting the crown and lowers so I am looking into colors. I'd like to have the paint before I open the fork up. Metallic (gold speck) Black is in the lead, followed by the old 36 Vanilla Brown Metallic (Rootbeer?). The bike is pollished raw with black and gold components.
Cheers!
PS, The Brewwife now has to bake cookies for the machinist.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
blcman said:
Hey fermenter or granpa,

how is the air shaft shortened?

Can it be cut with a hacksaw or does it need to be machined down?

I just ordered the Float kit and I might want to do this mod!

Thanks!:)
I'm sorry I didn't give a direct answer to the question. The plunger and negitive/ top out spring assy is held to the plunger tube with spring roll pins. Tap the plunger pin with a pin punch and the spring assy (air top out plate) if needed out of the way for clamping. The plunger rod is an aluminum tube so clamp with caution!
Whatever dimention you want to shorten it by you must move (only the plunger) the mounting hole by the same amount.
 

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fermenter said:
I'm sorry I didn't give a direct answer to the question. The plunger and negitive/ top out spring assy is held to the plunger tube with spring roll pins. Tap the plunger pin with a pin punch and the spring assy (air top out plate) if needed out of the way for clamping. The plunger rod is an aluminum tube so clamp with caution!
Whatever dimention you want to shorten it by you must move (only the plunger) the mounting hole by the same amount.
Thanks fermenter for the info!:thumbsup:

Without having the Float kit in front of me yet I was wondering.

Sounds like a pretty straight forward operation.

I'm still thinking of using it as is..I'm like 180 with gear, so I should be in

the range that most forks are designed for! :cool:
 

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You can easily cut the shaft with a plumbing pipe cutter.

To drill the hole, put the piston on the shaft, and center punch the the shaft through the hole in the piston using a nail. Then I used a step drill bit to bring the hole to the right size. I then put the piston back on, and did the other side. I've done several like this without issue.
 
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