[SCUBAPRO]

Just installed a 36 RC2 on my SLX. I've had a '02 Vanilla RLC, '03 Z1, and '04 Z150 on it prior to the 36. IMHO, the 36 blows all the aforementioned forks/shocks out of the water. It is very stiff (can't really notice any flex) and the damping is firm and is superior to any other single crown fork/shock I've ever used. The fork is very supple on small bumps and super plush when the going gets rough with no noticeable brake dive. Surely inspires confidence.

Apparently the damping system is taken from motocross technology which essentially has a sealed gas charged internal cartridge with cone bottom out bumpers which is not user seviceable. But I don't mind that; I'll just have PUSH Industries do the service for me. I will eventually get it PUSH'd which should improve the already stellar performance of the 36.

 

[tscheezy]

B!tchin Camero! Hey, why does everyone pony up the extra couple hundred clams for the extra compression adjusters? Has anyone actually tried the plain old R model? That's the one I think I'd go for. I have to admit that I have never owned a fork (and I have run through a pile) where I actually cared for much if any of the compression damping available via a dial.

So you aren't supposed to open EITHER leg??

 

[SCUBAPRO]

B!tchin Camero! Hey, why does everyone pony up the extra couple hundred clams for the extra compression adjusters? Has anyone actually tried the plain old R model? That's the one I think I'd go for. I have to admit that I have never owned a fork (and I have run through a pile) where I actually cared for much if any of the compression damping available via a dial.

So you aren't supposed to open EITHER leg??

Hello tscheezy,

I agree with you. Since I am on the lighter side (~140lbs with gear), I run the adjusters fully open. This basically makes the RC2 an R. So if you barely run any compression anyway, then you are better off saving some money by getting an R.

You can open the legs but you just should not disassemble the internal cartridge according to PUSH (Fox tech support was basically useless). I called Fox and the guy did not even know what the internals looked like or how the compression adjusters worked (mechanically) on the 36s.

 

[fourarm]

Questions...

Just installed a 36 RC2 on my SLX. I've had a '02 Vanilla RLC, '03 Z1, and '04 Z150 on it prior to the 36. IMHO, the 36 blows all the aforementioned forks/shocks out of the water. It is very stiff (can't really notice any flex) and the damping is firm and is superior to any other single crown fork/shock I've ever used. The fork is very supple on small bumps and super plush when the going gets rough with no noticeable brake dive. Surely inspires confidence.

Apparently the damping system is taken from motocross technology which essentially has a sealed gas charged internal cartridge with cone bottom out bumpers which is not user seviceable. But I don't mind that; I'll just have PUSH Industries do the service for me. I will eventually get it PUSH'd which should improve the already stellar performance of the 36.

I am running a Z150 on my SLX, did you notice any weight difference from the switch to the Fox? And an unrelated question...why not run the 1-piece link in the opposite direction to get a little more travel out of the rear?

 

[SCUBAPRO]

I am running a Z150 on my SLX, did you notice any weight difference from the switch to the Fox? And an unrelated question...why not run the 1-piece link in the opposite direction to get a little more travel out of the rear?

I did notice a weight difference specially when I lift the bike up to load it onto my truck.

I have the newer 2-piece link and tried running it on the 7" position with a 5th Element Coilover and noticed that the leverage ratio was too high for the 2" stroke shock. The 6" setting works best with the PUSH'd RC. I've throught of putting a 2.25" stroke x 7.875" shock on it, in the 7" setting in the bottom bolt hole, to decrease leverage ratio but haven't had a chance.

 

[Blaster1200]

I have the newer 2-piece link and tried running it on the 7" position with a 5th Element Coilover and noticed that the leverage ratio was too high for the 2" stroke shock. The 6" setting works best with the PUSH'd RC. I've throught of putting a 2.25" stroke x 7.875" shock on it, in the 7" setting in the bottom bolt hole, to decrease leverage ratio but haven't had a chance.

While I don't remember the stock shock length, the leverage isn't a problem for the shock you just need to use a stiffer spring (about 100 lbs stiffer), and readjust your damping settings.

 

[SCUBAPRO]

While I don't remember the stock shock length, the leverage isn't a problem for the shock you just need to use a stiffer spring (about 100 lbs stiffer), and readjust your damping settings.

I actually used a spring that was 50lbs stiffer than that recommended by Progressive for the SLX and rider weight but I still blew through all the travel pretty easily even with the bottom out reservoir set at full progressive (all the way in).

 

[Blaster1200]

I actually used a spring that was 50lbs stiffer than that recommended by Progressive for the SLX and rider weight but I still blew through all the travel pretty easily even with the bottom out reservoir set at full progressive (all the way in).

When I first set up my SLX, Progressive's spring and shock recommendations were way off base. In the 7" mode, I finally settled on a spring that was 100 lbs more than what they recommended (I weigh 200 lbs). I think I have a 550 # spring on it now, and there is less than two turns of preload. I have optimum sag. I even built a jig I use for setting the sag (I'll have to post pics of it) - it's similar to the old plastic tool GT used to include with its i-Drive frames. BTW, I set the reservoir one turn in from full out, and it works great.

 

[SCUBAPRO]

When I first set up my SLX, Progressive's spring and shock recommendations were way off base. In the 7" mode, I finally settled on a spring that was 100 lbs more than what they recommended (I weigh 200 lbs). I think I have a 550 # spring on it now, and there is less than two turns of preload. I have optimum sag. I even built a jig I use for setting the sag (I'll have to post pics of it) - it's similar to the old plastic tool GT used to include with its i-Drive frames. BTW, I set the reservoir one turn in from full out, and it works great.

In that case I might play with the 7" setting again. Did you notice a change in BB height between the 6-7" settings?

 

[Blaster1200]

In that case I might play with the 7" setting again. Did you notice a change in BB height between the 6-7" settings?

I don't remember the height differences if there were any. Actually, I think by using different holes in the links I was able to make up for any difference. So ultimately, there was no BB penalty for going to 7".

I ran a 2003 Z1 FR QR20 (no, not the 150) on the bike, which I personally thought was too tall for the frame (let's skip that debate here). For most rides, I left the shock in the middle hole in the 7" mode. This offered a good balance of BB height while keeping the head angle from being too slack. For more technical rides, I lowered it to the bottom hole, where the BB was a bit lower (by about 1/2") and the head angle was also slacker.

Additionally, I preferred to run the chainstays in the shorter mode, reducing chainstay and wheelbase length (which does slightly raise the bottom bracket and head angle, unfortunately, but well worth it).