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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Later this winter, I will be giving some TLC to my Fox 34 Fit4 fork, but instead of getting the Fox tools (398-00-681 & 398-00-682) to remove the lowers, I was thinking of using a coupling nut to hammer on the legs.

From what I've seen (somewhere on the internet), the damper's side lower is M8x1.25 (EDIT: in fact, M8x1.0), but I couldn't find anywhere, the treads dimension for the air side. Any clue? Tks
 

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Unthread the damper side nut a few turns then hit it with a deep socket, to prevent touching the rebound pin. For the air side you can just hammer the stud directly.

If you don’t have a deep socket, take the damper side nut off, re-thread it upside down just enough so that the rebound pin is not sticking out and hammer the nut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Mike, hitting (even if it's a rubber mallet) on alloy bits and pieces is not an option (at least for me).

Buying the right tool ? Yes sure ... my tool box is loaded with appropriate tools, but in this case, a $3 coupling nut will do the exact same thing as a $40 tool.

If no one knows what size the threads are, I guess I'll have to bring the alloy nuts to the store and find out what size they are ...
 

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I've been using a deep socket and dead blow hammer on my forks for 15 years. My 10 year old for 32 has been service 30+times as I like to swap dampers for racing and the nuts still work just fine. Yes the nuts show some wear, but should last another 30+ services before I would need to replace them.
 

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I used a deep socket many times, which is fine IMO. Now I have the Fox tools which are somewhat more convenient. A coupling nut may be even more convenient (smaller, lighter) but I haven't used one. I'll have to look for some.

I'll tell you what though, the new piloted seal drivers are worth it IMO, especially with the new flangeless dust seals.
 

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I'll tell you what though, the new piloted seal drivers are worth it IMO, especially with the new flangeless dust seals.
Holy smokes those things work awesome! Like someone else said, would have been nice 10 years ago.

Back on topic, another deep socket smacker here. If there were an issue I figure you'd feel the threads binding/crunching when screwing them on by hand...and that's never happened through dozens of fork services. YMMV of course.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'll tell you what though, the new piloted seal drivers are worth it IMO, especially with the new flangeless dust seals.
Totally agree ... since Fox went with flangeless dust seals, it's better to use the tool in order to control seal insertion's depth. RWC has a reversible 32/34 seal's driver.

Anyways, when my fork will be due for servicing, I'll measure and post the leg's threads.
 

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I'll tell you what though, the new piloted seal drivers are worth it IMO, especially with the new flangeless dust seals.
Agreed. I like the Push seal better than the stock seal. The seal drivers are worth the money. I picked up a generic set of 32,34,36 for $9 a piece.
 

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Have you been able to measure the threads on the other leg of the fork.
What is it...?

Also do not feel as wasting $70 for 2 tools when two coupling nuts will to exactly the same work and cost probably $3 all together..

Thanks
 

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Have you been able to measure the threads on the other leg of the fork.
What is it...?

Also do not feel as wasting $70 for 2 tools when two coupling nuts will to exactly the same work and cost probably $3 all together..

Thanks
The correct threads are:
M8x1.0 left leg
M10x1.0 right leg

one thing is is very strange I had difficulty to screw on the perfectly cut M10x1.0 nut on the stud, also metric nut M10x1.0 bought from HD did not fit. So there is some other specialty about the thread....(thead height ??)
 

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The correct threads are:
M8x1.0 left leg
M10x1.0 right leg

one thing is is very strange I had difficulty to screw on the perfectly cut M10x1.0 nut on the stud, also metric nut M10x1.0 bought from HD did not fit. So there is some other specialty about the thread....(thead height ??)
Ok so I’m not crazy. I’d measured the same but also hit resistance with that 1.0 mm nut.
 

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Ok so I’m not crazy. I’d measured the same but also hit resistance with that 1.0 mm nut.
Yep... the air shaft was spot on M8x1.0
But damper side... threaded original nut went on like butter on the stud tested in HD. but when I had two perfect M10.1.0 nuts - one brand new from store and other cut with tap it did not work.... most likely thread agle/ pitch, thread height, maybe the thread rounding... was also considering if the thread may have been whithworth??
 

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Did anyone ever solve the spring side threading issue? I'm about to pick up an M8x1.0 coupling nut for the damper side on my 34 stepcast, but not sure what to do on the spring side. On my rockshox forks I always just used a wooden dowel to tap against - considering doing the same here, maybe with a 1" deep clearance hole (probably 7/16 or 11mm) drilled on center. Could also do with copper or delrin rod. Anyone have any suggestions?
 

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FYI McMaster has 3.8cm long thread adapter nuts, one side threaded M8x1, other side threaded M10x1. Basically the two nuts you need in one piece, for $12 (or $8 for an aluminum version).

If this doesn't work, I'll probably just blow out the M10 side to make a clearance hole, and then screw some M8x1 threaded rod from the bottom as a stop so hammering doesn't chowder up the good threads.
 
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