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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm buying one mojo for myself and I'm in doubt of what fork and shock I should use.

Travel adjustments soundsgood, but I really dont't like the Talas. I had one 140 Vanilla and I love it, but I was thinking to use some 36 Float with DHX shock, I like the idea of on/off lever in DHX 2009 models, and the weigh of the forks are almost the same. And the blue IBIS with white Float will be veeeery cool. :)


I'd like to rear some opinions of geometry using 160mm forks. Any complain or sugestion? The Float36 low compression adjustment will reduce the BOB?


And what link color should I use with blue frame?
 

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What kind of riding are you going to do? If you plan of doing any kind of climbing I would not go over 150mm. I have a 36 Talas and at 160mm the bike is very high on the front. It would be very hard to do any serious climbing! Most of the time I have it on the 130mm setting and it feels the most balanced at this setting. I reserve the 160mm setting for the nastiest downhill sections. I built my SL with a 36 Talas and DHX 5.0 and I love it!!
 

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Firstly

be honest about the riding you do. I run a 160 for trail and all mountain. I believe the HA comes in at 68 or a bit lower. Climbing isn't as easy as a 140 but I find that technique can eliminate most of the pain.

I'm not sure what benefit you will get over the std float by fitting a dhx. It will certainly need an appropriate tune. If you ride hard and more enduro DH type stuff then consider a coil, but for my money the float is excellent. I may get a custom tune or a Push setup sometime when it's due for a service. I prefer a slower rebound and I am finding that I am running mine nearly full on. Even then its not what I would call slow. I have fiddled with the propedal but it seems rather pointless considering the way the DW works under power

As for bob, if you mash the pedals then you may experience some but I find that seated pedaling is almost bob free without pro pedal and plenty of sag. Sprinting out of the saddle feels more like a hard tail than a 5.5 bike.

So it comes down to what you intend to use the bike for. I like the 160's ( RS Lyrik solo airs)
I personally wouldn't change unless I started doing more XC orientated rides and even then........not sure.

Whatever you chose I'm sure you'll love it
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
At most of the time I make a more XC oriented ride, but some times I go to some tecnical trails, a little of light freeride and this kind of stuff. I really know that I dont need 36's forks, but I really like how it looks . :)

I have one happy friend that have one Mojo with DT shock, but I preffer Fox shocks, I really like adjustments buttons, I have a tunning addiction and the DHX will make me very happy.

I had some issues about Talas, I used one some time ago and the vanilla feels much better.... But the Talas 150 is very tempting...
 

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Another fork option would be the RS Lyrik U Turn (stay away from the 2 step as it is either 160 or 115)

If you like the 36 but don't want to go the full 160 length then why not the Pike. Lots of options and I have seen some white ones...but its an easy job to get the lowers painted.

I've owned older Marzocchis still have a pair of 888's but I am not so sure about the more recent offerings. Has the reliability been sorted? Don't know.

There are loads of great forks out there.
 

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I just replaced a Heckler with a new SL frame. I am running a Lyrik coil set around 145mm which seems great for the twisty singletrack I mostly ride. Today was my first ride on a sunny 33 degree day. I will post more when I get better pics.
 

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Founder: Dirty3hirties
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I switched from a Van 32 to the Lyrik Coil about 2 months ago. I started off riding it set at about 145 all the time. But for the past 2 rides, I tried riding it at 160 but lowering my stem. If you notice a lot of the other set ups, there are plenty of spacers below the stem to adjust the bar height to compensate for the increased height of the fork. It does make the bike a tad more slack though at 160 but it is much more climbable if you just lower the stem even 1/2" in.

Here's my set up.



Notice how many spacers are below my stem.



That's a pic BEFORE I lowered the bar....don't have a new pix of it yet.
 

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Black_Aypim said:
At most of the time I make a more XC oriented ride, but some times I go to some tecnical trails, a little of light freeride and this kind of stuff. I really know that I dont need 36's forks, but I really like how it looks . :)

I have one happy friend that have one Mojo with DT shock, but I preffer Fox shocks, I really like adjustments buttons, I have a tunning addiction and the DHX will make me very happy.

I had some issues about Talas, I used one some time ago and the vanilla feels much better.... But the Talas 150 is very tempting...
I believe the Mojo is designed for a 130mm fork+-. Ride characteristics would change a lot with a 160mm shock.:confused: If looks are important get what you want .:thumbsup:
 

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Designed for 130, yes but happy in both guises. 160 Lyriks aren't much taller than your average 130. I have ridden the mojo in both setups and if you lean on the more aggressive side of trail riding (hate using the all mountain term) then 160 is better. If I could start over I would have either gone for the Cil U Turn Lyriks or the new Talas 36s...custom painted white
 

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Another vote for the Lyrik Coil uturn.
I run mine at 130 for the tight twisty stuff, 145 for regular long downhills, 160 for the gnarlier downhills. At 130, the axle to crown length is about the same as a PIKE at 140mm.
I occasionally drop it to 115 for extended climbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
dan51 said:
Another vote for the Lyrik Coil uturn.
I run mine at 130 for the tight twisty stuff, 145 for regular long downhills, 160 for the gnarlier downhills. At 130, the axle to crown length is about the same as a PIKE at 140mm.
I occasionally drop it to 115 for extended climbs.
The problem is that I will buy Full bike, and Ibis site dont have RockShox Options.... I'm really interesed in Talas 15QR or Float 15QR. I think its a good balance of stiffness and weight... But I think Float 15QR isnt a option too...

My Idea is to put some white fork with axle (15 or 20mm), white saddle and some white details in blue frame.... I will talk with Tom to see what he can do for me. :)
 

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boba
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Talas 36.

I love my bike with the 08' Talas 36...This fork is 1.75 inches longer from axel to bottom of the headtube than the 08' talas 32 which was originally on my wife's Ibis.

The rule of thumb is that an increase of an inch of fork height slackens the head angle by 1 degree...so the bike is now about 67.5 degrees...almost freeride geometry with great light weight and a fine rear suspension. It handles steep downhill stuff great....much better than with a 32. For climbing, I generally leave it at 160mm. but for steep sections, I lower it to 130 and it will climb anything. It is the same height as a fox 32 in the 130 setting.
I have never needed to use the lowest setting. The talas feature is amazing. When riding, simply move the lever to whatever setting you wish and the fork immediately drops or rises to that setting. In the lower settings, the suspension works just fine. I cannot imagine having to stop and turn a knob around and around to adjust the fork.

If you ride steep or really rough terrain, the talas 36 is almost a necessity and would likely suite you but if you are a single track rat, then anything will do. The QR 20 makes the bike stiff...I don/t understand why anyone would want a quick release. Here on the Wet Coast of BC, you rarely come across someone with a quick release. When you do they are usually visitors from Calafornia.

bob.
 

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We set-up a Mojo with a 160mm fork for someone to try out the longer travel fork with the Mojo. But had to put on a 55 with a travel adjust, and a gravity dropper post.

The 140 is still a better option..

Note: The black thing stuck to the downtube is a Niterider Flight battery pack.
 

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bobAustin said:
I love my bike with the 08' Talas 36...This fork is 1.75 inches longer from axel to bottom of the headtube than the 08' talas 32 which was originally on my wife's Ibis.

The rule of thumb is that an increase of an inch of fork height slackens the head angle by 1 degree...so the bike is now about 67.5 degrees...almost freeride geometry with great light weight and a fine rear suspension. It handles steep downhill stuff great....much better than with a 32. For climbing, I generally leave it at 160mm. but for steep sections, I lower it to 130 and it will climb anything. It is the same height as a fox 32 in the 130 setting.
I have never needed to use the lowest setting. The talas feature is amazing. When riding, simply move the lever to whatever setting you wish and the fork immediately drops or rises to that setting. In the lower settings, the suspension works just fine. I cannot imagine having to stop and turn a knob around and around to adjust the fork.

If you ride steep or really rough terrain, the talas 36 is almost a necessity and would likely suite you but if you are a single track rat, then anything will do. The QR 20 makes the bike stiff...I don/t understand why anyone would want a quick release. Here on the Wet Coast of BC, you rarely come across someone with a quick release. When you do they are usually visitors from Calafornia.

bob.
What is the difference in BB height between the 32 and the 36? I am thinking about the 36 Talas or the 150 and the larger axle. I would like to get about a 1/2 in. more BB clearance, to avoid clipping pedals. Thanks for the information on the change in front end height. I've never added a taller fork to a bike, and checked the BB height to see if it increased the same as the increase in fork height.
 
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