Having some problems with the lockout on my Lapierre X-CONTROL 310 L 2010. Forks are Fox 120mm travel 32FRL open bath. Just can't get the lockout to work!
I've just tried an oil change in case it was a low level problem; not sure what came out as I managed to spill most of it! Anyway I put 165ml back in, assembled the valve, cycled the cylinder a few times, put the air back in. Still no lockout.
BTW I used 5-30 synthetic for the time being, wondering now though if perhaps oil viscosity may be an issue, 10wt green I think is the recommendation.
The lockout valve gets screwed into the bottom, then you add the lock lever in the locked position I presume. Anyway, I backed it off a little as well, still no joy.
Gotta be a simple fix here, but just can't see what's wrong.
Any ideas please?
With the damper out, I'm guessing it may be a good idea to replace some seals. Any idea how to dis-assemble the damper though, no flats where you can get a spanner?
Where to get a seal kit?
After dis-assembly, this is what I've got.
2 washers, small .007" thick and large .006" thick.
I don't know if this is correct. But anyway, I thought I'd put it all back together again, add 165mm of oil.
Still no lockout.
Did you slow the rebound down to help suck oil in to the cartridge when cycling? The damper will be slow through the whole stroke if it is filled completely, only then can you test the lockout
Many thanks, for the input JohnnyC7!
Yes, I screwed the rebound right in and cycled the forks many times without air initially before adding the air again.
Its really bugging me this, must be something relatively simple, but just can't fathom it!
So the rebound slows down but the lockout doesn't work?
Once the damper is full of oil take it out of the fork and cycle it, is oil coming out of the shims under the top cap? You can sit the cartridge in a container of oil as well to watch what happens.
If oil is coming out the bottom of the cartridge there might be a check valve stuck open in there
Yeah, rebound seems to work.
But cycling the damper out of the fork with the lock closed, oil is coming out of the bottom and nothing through the top shims.
So a valve or seal is at fault?
But this damper, I'm not sure will come apart?
Unusual looking circlip, but simple when you know how after you've done it once!
I was really hoping to be able to spot an obvious fault with the shaft out. But I can't see what could be causing lock-out failure.
Maybe take the base valve out next, (is that a mechanical valve in the bottom there?) is this more likely to be the failure point?
Yeah the base valve is just a check valve, it should be closing on compression to force oil out the top, then opens on rebound. It’s possiblt jammed or has some debris on there, try blowing it out with compressed air
Using compressed air into the damper tube the base valve seemed to be okish.
So I put it back together and get some oil into the damper. With the lockout backed off and cycling the damper oil was coming out the top valve and with the lockout screwed down oil was coming out the base valve; which I think is the cause of the 'no-lockout'
I just can't see how to take the base valve out of the damper tube.
Anyone?
OK, bottom valve out, does this thing come apart any further, it must do.
Can't seem to unscrew it though, damn tight.
The center plunger looks depressed, I assume it should return to a closed position?
OK, I've found a spring that looks like it may do the job.
From its free length it compresses about 2mm into its seated position.
Hard to say if its going to offer enough resistance, only one way to find out.
If it blows off a bit too soon I guess its not the end of the world?
Getting somewhere at last.
I can now feel the lockout trying to work.
Blowing through far too easy though.
So, where do I source the correct spring from?
Sorted!
I turned up a .200" long spacer to go behind the original spring.
This puts the spring under .100" compression with another .120" to go.
Lockout works! and blow through seems about right.
Strange how the previous owner managed to get it into this state.
Thank you JonnyC7 for the bit of help that made this repair possible for me.
Using 5-30W mobil synthetic for the moment and seems ok.
Is this likely to cause a problem in the future though?
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