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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Having some problems with the lockout on my Lapierre X-CONTROL 310 L 2010. Forks are Fox 120mm travel 32FRL open bath. Just can't get the lockout to work!
I've just tried an oil change in case it was a low level problem; not sure what came out as I managed to spill most of it! Anyway I put 165ml back in, assembled the valve, cycled the cylinder a few times, put the air back in. Still no lockout.
BTW I used 5-30 synthetic for the time being, wondering now though if perhaps oil viscosity may be an issue, 10wt green I think is the recommendation.
The lockout valve gets screwed into the bottom, then you add the lock lever in the locked position I presume. Anyway, I backed it off a little as well, still no joy.
Gotta be a simple fix here, but just can't see what's wrong.
Any ideas please?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
With the damper out, I'm guessing it may be a good idea to replace some seals. Any idea how to dis-assemble the damper though, no flats where you can get a spanner?
Where to get a seal kit?
Product Line Floor Flooring Metal
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
After dis-assembly, this is what I've got.
2 washers, small .007" thick and large .006" thick.
I don't know if this is correct. But anyway, I thought I'd put it all back together again, add 165mm of oil.
Still no lockout.

Anyone give me some ideas?

Metal Household hardware Circle Silver Fastener
 

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Did you slow the rebound down to help suck oil in to the cartridge when cycling? The damper will be slow through the whole stroke if it is filled completely, only then can you test the lockout
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Many thanks, for the input JohnnyC7!
Yes, I screwed the rebound right in and cycled the forks many times without air initially before adding the air again.
Its really bugging me this, must be something relatively simple, but just can't fathom it!
 

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So the rebound slows down but the lockout doesn't work?

Once the damper is full of oil take it out of the fork and cycle it, is oil coming out of the shims under the top cap? You can sit the cartridge in a container of oil as well to watch what happens.

If oil is coming out the bottom of the cartridge there might be a check valve stuck open in there
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah, rebound seems to work.
But cycling the damper out of the fork with the lock closed, oil is coming out of the bottom and nothing through the top shims.
So a valve or seal is at fault?
But this damper, I'm not sure will come apart?
Finger Skin Thumb Nail Beige
Product Household hardware Cylinder Tool accessory Fastener
 

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Circlip inside the sealhead where the shaft enters. Pop that and pull the shaft out

The base valve will unscrew if you clamp the body and use lots of heat to break loctite
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks again JohnnyC7!
Unusual looking circlip, but simple when you know how after you've done it once!
I was really hoping to be able to spot an obvious fault with the shaft out. But I can't see what could be causing lock-out failure.
Maybe take the base valve out next, (is that a mechanical valve in the bottom there?) is this more likely to be the failure point?
 

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Yeah the base valve is just a check valve, it should be closing on compression to force oil out the top, then opens on rebound. It’s possiblt jammed or has some debris on there, try blowing it out with compressed air
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Using compressed air into the damper tube the base valve seemed to be okish.
So I put it back together and get some oil into the damper. With the lockout backed off and cycling the damper oil was coming out the top valve and with the lockout screwed down oil was coming out the base valve; which I think is the cause of the 'no-lockout'
I just can't see how to take the base valve out of the damper tube.
Anyone?
 

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It's been a while since I removed one, there usually isn't much need, but I would try-

Clamp the body and use plenty of heat on the base valve area

then either try to insert and allen key through the holes (if they go straight through) OR

Get 2 nuts short enough that you can thread both on the the foot stud, lock them together then use the one closer to the base valve to unthread it
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Finger Metal Household hardware Thumb Nail
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OK, bottom valve out, does this thing come apart any further, it must do.
Can't seem to unscrew it though, damn tight.
The center plunger looks depressed, I assume it should return to a closed position?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Product Technology Fastener Screw Household hardware

OK, I've found a spring that looks like it may do the job.
From its free length it compresses about 2mm into its seated position.
Hard to say if its going to offer enough resistance, only one way to find out.
If it blows off a bit too soon I guess its not the end of the world?
 
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