Fork ??

Rubber on top of the coil spring, with a spacer in between? Elastomer, part of the coil spring setup. Allows a more progressive travel at the beginning of the stroke, while the coil spring slows things down as you progress toward the end of the stroke. What did you use to lube it up?

Thanks for the response heff. No, this is a rubber cylinder inside the spring. I had to push it out with a screwdriver.


Nothing on top or bottom.

What brand and model of fork?

RST Omni 190

I know, but this is the beginner section. Don't tell me to trash it. It's what I have.

Double post...

You might of cleaned somthing too well or lubed too well. Most of those lower end forks use stiction as a means of dampening. It might be too slippery in there and there's no control over the coil spring (the shock absorbing part is gone) that's my .02$

Wasn't about to tell you to. You'll do that yourself in a year. )

Hang on a sec, friggin' RST service manual site is slower than a drunk snail.

OK, you've got something OEM going on there. Couple quick questions.........are the coil springs removed through the top of the legs (just by removing the top cap) or do you actually have to remove the fork lowers? I'm guessing the latter, since you said there are no elastomers on top of the spring. In that case, you're probably right, it's just an added elastomer to prevent the spring from bottoming out.

Again, though.........what did you use to lubricate the spring and other internal parts?

I have to remove the lowers.

I used some regular Park Tool grease (same I used for my BB)

Is there something better? I was a 10 minute job to tear it down, so I can do it again with the correct grease.

I would just go to a motorcycle shop and get a bottle of fork lube there. Otherwise something like Finish Line fork oil will work as well. You just want something non-destructive to the elastomer. 15wt fork oil will work fine, just don't pour a bottle in there. You'll dribble all over the trail and piss off the locals.

In all seriousness, that's pretty much the cheapest fork RST makes, so keep a close eye on it. Pay careful attention to the dropouts after every trail ride, and check the stanchions for any wiggle, even the slightest amount. If you see either of those with a problem, STOP RIDING THE FORK IMMEDIATELY. You will injure yourself.

Thanks again for the help heff.

It was just grease in there when I pulled it apart, no oil.

I have read alll about the fork, and my bike in general. I've been riding the he!! out of it and it's holding up well. No problems so far, except a bearing in the BB, which was a $2 fix, and I have a new sealed unit to go in.

The fork works enought for me. I ride tight ST with alot of roots. I don't do any DH or big drops, and at 170, the heavy stell frame is hardly taxed.

And, I forgot, the frame and fork have a lifetime warranty, so the first sign of problems and I'll get a new hunk '0 junk...

I've learned alot with this bike, and I enjoy wrenching on it almost as much as riding. That's a large almost

about a year ago there was an interesting post in the DJ/Street/Park threads about a guy that was running the RST that came on his bike originally, that he swapped for another (more heavy duty) DJ type fork, he had to send it in for some work so he put the RST back on, Needless to say the stanchons separated from the crown and the dude had to go to the hospital

Watch The lower Rh screen
I know this is not the kind of riding you do but this fork had only a few hours of riding on it and DJ is what it was designed to do.