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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's your setup? I'm 190 geard up. Using the supplied sag meter it seems like I'm sitting low and like the bike doesn't have much left to give.
 

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I'm 230 geared up and run 210-215 psi in the rear shock. 210 puts me right on the sag indicator and 215 puts me just under the recommended sag. I've only got one short ride on it so far but I prefer the ride just under. We'll see how it goes.

How much pressure are you running? Just curious...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My pump reads 180 and it puts me at the 30% sag line. It just feels like there's not much travel left running the recommended sag.
 

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I'm 175-180lbs naked...closer to 200lbs geared up. I have been running 155psi - aiming for 30% sag. I'm going to try 160 psi on today's ride.

155 is fine for most riding, but I have been bottoming out on g-outs/hard landings.

I'm going to see about reducing the volume of the air can to get a more progressive ramp up of the spring and then I'll go back to 155 psi.
 

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It's worth noting that Pivot recommends more sag than the indicator line with the paperwork they sent with the bike. It's the same sag indicator that comes with the 5.7. They say "Mach 6 sag 20.3 mm. We use sag indicator A where the redline is 18.8 mm. If you set the sag just past the red line, this will give you the proper sag." Seems like Pivot could have made a new sticker for a new frame? The 1.5 mm doesn't seem like much, but it does seem to pedal a bit better with the o ring just past the sag line. With that I do bottom out occasionally, but never very hard on moderate trails. I am 165 pounds naked and think I am running 150 psi based on my shock pump. Think I would have to run more pressure for more severe trails.
 

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My geared up riding weight is 185#, and I've had to boost the pressure up to 190 psi to avoid bottoming out. I purchased the Spacer kit from Fox yesterday but haven't had a chance to install yet. I'm going to try the .6 spacer (.4 is factory on the Large M6) and reduce air to 170psi. Hope to have it ready by Saturday for a ride at Demo forest, which has some good drops and jumps to test it out on. I spoke with Pivot this morning and they did say the factory tune on the Float X is on the light side, which would explain why more aggressive riders are having to run higher pressure to avoid bottoming out.
 

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My geared up riding weight is 185#, and I've had to boost the pressure up to 190 psi to avoid bottoming out. I purchased the Spacer kit from Fox yesterday but haven't had a chance to install yet. I'm going to try the .6 spacer (.4 is factory on the Large M6) and reduce air to 170psi. Hope to have it ready by Saturday for a ride at Demo forest, which has some good drops and jumps to test it out on. I spoke with Pivot this morning and they did say the factory tune on the Float X is on the light side, which would explain why more aggressive riders are having to run higher pressure to avoid bottoming out.
I'll be interested in what your experience is after adding the spacer.

I'm in Canada so getting a kit will take a couple weeks. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My geared up riding weight is 185#, and I've had to boost the pressure up to 190 psi to avoid bottoming out. I purchased the Spacer kit from Fox yesterday but haven't had a chance to install yet. I'm going to try the .6 spacer (.4 is factory on the Large M6) and reduce air to 170psi. Hope to have it ready by Saturday for a ride at Demo forest, which has some good drops and jumps to test it out on. I spoke with Pivot this morning and they did say the factory tune on the Float X is on the light side, which would explain why more aggressive riders are having to run higher pressure to avoid bottoming out.
Did you add the spacer and if so how did it work?
 

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I'm trying to do it right now! Not sure how to remove the rear shock bolt (or nut.) The pivot instructions show it pulling right out. I've removed the 5mm countersunk screw, but the nut part of the assembly with the hex head won't come out. Anybody have a tip for removing it, so I can get the shock out?
 

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I'm trying to do it right now! Not sure how to remove the rear shock bolt (or nut.) The pivot instructions show it pulling right out. I've removed the 5mm countersunk screw, but the nut part of the assembly with the hex head won't come out. Anybody have a tip for removing it, so I can get the shock out?
I have removed it one time. Just start the 5 mm bolt a few threads so that you can push it and pop up the hex head part.
 

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I'm trying to do it right now! Not sure how to remove the rear shock bolt (or nut.) The pivot instructions show it pulling right out. I've removed the 5mm countersunk screw, but the nut part of the assembly with the hex head won't come out. Anybody have a tip for removing it, so I can get the shock out?
And also make sure you cover your down tube with something. Easy to scratch it when you are taking the shock loose.
 

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I have removed it one time. Just start the 5 mm bolt a few threads so that you can push it and pop up the hex head part.
Nice tip, unfortunately I was out on my test ride when you responded! I figured another way to get it out, but I like your suggestion.

So the kit comes with several spacers, but some are too large of diameter to fit in the shock body...I'll have to ask Fox what's up with that. Anyhow, removal of existing spacer & installation new was pretty straightforward. The kit comes with 5cc of Float fluid, & the instructions on Fox's website say to install 2cc of it, I was generous and installed about 3-4cc for good measure!

00-Bike as Vice.jpg

I used my bike in a stand in lieu of a vice.

01-Wrench.JPG

I could not unscrew the shock by hand. Don't even think about pliers, pipe wrenches, etc! Go to your local auto parts shop and get one of these cheap strap wrenches for removing oil filters. No scratches, no problems!

02-.4 Stock Spacer.JPG

Factory spacer .35"

03-New .6 Spacer.JPG

Largest usable spacer .61"

04-New spacer installed.JPG

New spacer installed

05-Slick Honey & Float Fluid.JPG

Fox instructions say to coat threads & seal with Slick Honey, use 2cc Float Fluid.

06-Oh Sheet.JPG

Oh ****, forgot to install the O-ring sag indicator before installation!

07-Sag.JPG

It took 170 psi to get sag to measure correctly. NOTE: After an hour of riding I checked my O-ring and saw that it was completely off the shock body, so I decided to recheck air pressure and measure sag again. Turns out I lost about 20psi (not leaking, but probably migrated to the other chamber of the shock.) Anyhow, 170 again proved to be correct psi for correct sag.
Last week I had my shock pressure at 192psi and bottomed out on a 4-5' rock drop that I like to hit on a local trail. After doing a trail check on my shock, and adding air back to 170psi, I hit the same rock drop and checked the O-ring. It was hanging on by a thread.

After my first ride there was a noticeable difference in the progression of the shock towards the bottom of the stroke. I had made a few other changes since my previous ride, primarily tires & tire pressure that made it difficult to compare small bump compliance. Bottom line - the fact that I was able to hit a drop that consistently bottomed me out with 22psi less without bottoming out was comforting.
 
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