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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking to build up a wheel set for a dedicated fixed gear bike. I'm not interested in using a flip-flop setup or running a disc brake. Surly and Paul make various fix/disc hubs that could be converted to fix/fix with a Tomi Cog but running two mounting standards seems kind of stupid. All I can find is the Phil Wood fix/fix hub (which looks great) but wanted to know if there are other choices out there for fix/fix or fix/blank 135 hubs?

A 135 front like Paul and Phil make + a Tomi Cog would be a cool setup but I'm pretty sure the disc standards for front hubs are too tight to work... not sure.
 

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Shimano XT fixie hub.

756 hub modified with a solid rear axle and a disc cog. It's the cleanest fixie hub around (IMHO), does not strip cogs, and is rebuildable.

I posted how to convert the hubs back in 2004 (!), but the pictures are no longer linkable (they were lost in MTBR's upgrade). The article at the fixedgeargallery.com is still up though: https://fixedgeargallery.com/articles/tomchow/dischub/ but that was an early conversion with a Axiom hub, I'd recommend a Shimano 756 hub, which is much more durable (and what I run now). You can now get it already modified at https://velosolo.com/intro.html

There is also an article on converting a Sury Hub: https://www.fixedgeargallery.com/articles/williamson/surlyhub/
 

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I think what would be ideal for this application would be a disc/disc hub. For mountainbike applications, I think you will be best served by a disc mount cog. Much stronger and easier to mount/remove. Unfortunately, I don't think it exists! I think the best solution would be to take your pick from one of the the many cassette Singlespeed Disc hubs on the market. There are many to choose from, from cheap and heavy to light and expensive. You are looking for a 135mm hub right? While Itsdoable's ideas will work fine, you will end up with a wheel that is not as strong as it couls be because of the shorter flange distance on front hubs. I know you said you are not interested in fixed/free, but with this setup you might as well throw a cog on the cassette side anyway, either for a slightly different gear ratio or for insurance.

Oh yeah, I just thought of another option for a super clean and strong build: The Paul Disk WHUB. It is a front 135mm disc hub, intended for use on fat front and snow bikes. Super wide flanges and a disc mount on one side and nothing on the other. Slap a Tomicog on there and you are good to go. Link:
http://www.paulcomp.com/diskwhub.html

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the input. I agree with bikeny that using a tighter flange hub with spacers is not ideal because you might as well build it wider and strong if it's going on a 135 mm frame. This is the reason the Level system doesn't appeal to me.

The WHUB + Tomicog looks like the best setup on paper but what is the chain line? I haven't seen it done...
 

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I'm not sure what the 135mm front hub disc standard is, but if it follows the rear hubs, the chain line should be fine with the big-ring. If it follows the front ISO standard, then you'll have problems

Using a front hub re-spaced on the rear gives you a chain line on the middle ring if you build it up symmetric. Its stronger than standard dished rear wheels, as the hubs have the same flange spacing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
benwitt11 said:
Chainline with a WHUB run fixed is fine. Perfect with big ring. This would be the cleanest option for what you are looking for.
Glad to hear that! I think that is the cleanest option. If you have built something with this setup, pics?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Nater said:
Level Components has a 135mm fixie hub too. BTI lists is as in stock too so your LBS should be able to get it...assuming they have a BTI account.

https://www.bti-usa.com/images/thumbnails/large/ll/ll1233.jpg

This is probably the best setup out there for fixed gear hubs. Unfortunately, the Level product is really a 120mm hub with spacers and an asymetrical cog that allow the chainline to be adjusted for 135mm use (still cooler than all the sapced out Track hubs). I'd rather see Level put out a dedicated 135mm hub and widen the flanges as much as possible. Also, the asymetrical cog prevents you from flipping it for extra cog life.

It's trick but really why would anyone want a hub that converts from 120mm to 135mm and has an adjustable chainline? The difference between road and mountain wheelsets isn't just 120 vs 135mm spacing and 45 vs 52mm chainline... it's rims, spoke gauge, spoke count, hub weight, etc... I can't image anyone has a use for a wheel set that is compatible with their road and mountain bikes. Maybe it's just me, I have different bikes for road/off-road and different wheels for them.

The Level cog interface seems to split the difference between the 6bolt iso and splined mounting systems (such as White Ind). The White Ind is probably the best setup; it's as easy as changing a freewheel cog. The Level method at least makes you only mess with 3 things instead of 6; but 1 is still better. Also, I've never stripped hub threads or sheared brake rotor bolts using fixed cogs. High quality parts installed properly tend to work. That said, if there is a better system I will use it.

The i9/Level prototype looks rad... hope that develops into a true 135mm fixed hub.
 

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trail rat
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bikeny said:
I think what would be ideal for this application would be a disc/disc hub. For mountainbike applications, I think you will be best served by a disc mount cog. Much stronger and easier to mount/remove. Unfortunately, I don't think it exists!
Agreed 1000% ;) That would be perfect, in my opinion.

I have searched and schemed. DMR has a hub that I thought might work, but no. I like the interface of my TomiCogs on the 6 bolt ISO. I want a disc / fixed hub, and I am pleased that Surly and Pauls have one. (I emailed Pauls and Eno over a year ago asking, and they said no. Funny how things change.) I will get a Surly and build a wheel soon, but I am so reluctant to give up the TomiCog. sigh
 

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One Colorful Rider
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I just use a Surly Hub. If I want to change gearing even with a flip flop I have to pull wheel off. Changing a cog is pretty easy and my surly hub and cog are non proprietary. which means I can use it on my paul hub, surly hub formula ya da ya da ya da.

The Surly hub and cogs are dependable and less expensive. Surly is 11 year sold and support the bicycle world.

 
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