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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm the proud new owner of a 2008 Hifi+!
Frame size: 19"
Height 5' 11"
Weight 170#
Build: roughly average torso, leg, and arm length.

I come from many years of probably improperly fitted hard-tails. But I've gotten comfortable and proficient none-the-less. My latest HT is a 19" 2002 Giant XTC w/ a set-back seat post. I'm sure it put my knee well behind the pedal spindle, but it felt right for me.

When I was fitted to my Hifi+, the bony protusion below my kneecap was found to be about 0.5" behind the pedal spindle. But I still felt like I needed to stretch out the cockpit a little. The shop guy recommended that I not move the seat back any further, but rather get a longer stem.

Here's my dilemma: I already feel like the front end wants to nose-dive in steep, rough terrain, sending me OTB. So I'm afraid that a longer stem will just move my CG forward and make that worse. Why wouldn't I want to move the seat back?

Is there another cure for OTB syndrome? A lower bar? More (or less) fork pressure?

Thanks in advance for your input!
 

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"Is there another cure for OTB syndrome?" Move back and down.

"The shop guy recommended that I not move the seat back any further," He probably is hung up on the idea that your knee "needs" to be over the spindle.

It's your bike. Feel free to experiment.

I have roughly average torso, leg, and arm length also and ride an '07 HiFi Pro. I put a 20mm setback seat post on it and have the saddle moved back past center on it's rails. The front end is a little light sitting and spinning up 25% grades, but I am used to it. Sometimes I am able to use it to my advantage to reposition the front tire to one side or the other.

I haven't noticed the "front end wanting to nose-dive in steep, rough terrain". My sag is set to about 20-25%. I tend to ease the front brake on in this kind of situation. Grab a handful and it will try to put you OTB.
 

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The thing I like about the HiFi is the aggressive cockpit....perfect for railing corners. But it also gives you a little more pucker factor on the descents as you noticed....I've just learned to adjust by puckering a little more and getting my COG where it needs to be....and trusting the bike will do what it does. Bottom line....the bike is built to feel like that...once you get over it, you'll find that inner peace.
 

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On steep descents you probably shouldn't be on the seat anyway.... try hovering your rear just behind the seat while descending... If you move your center of gravity too far back you'll experience a lot of front wheel hop while climbing...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I seem to have a good feel for proper CG while climbing. For mild ascents, no change required. For moderate ascents, I slide a little forward on the nose of the saddle. For really steep ascents I'll get over the front wheel - just enough to maintain steering control while optimizing rear wheel traction.

It's the steep downhills where I feel I need more confidence/control. I can survive by resting my chest on the seat and hanging way back, but I notice others don't need to do this. And it's not just on the steeps. My front wheel sometimes gets stopped by rocks others casually ride over.

Compared to my old HT, this bike gave me +2.5" of wheelbase (all in front - chainstays are the same length), -2 deg. of head tube angle, and +40mm of fork travel on a much nicer shock. But I still seem to need to hang off the back where others don't. Then again I've survived some downhills where others haven't, so maybe I'm doing it right - at least some of the time.
 

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I'm stumped... I ride the 2008.5 supercaliber (basically a 4 inch hifi) and I have no such descending problems. You may just be experiencing some growing pains getting in touch with the new bike. Switching from a hardtail to a 5 inch trail bike is pretty significant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Kook91 said:
Just a thought: do you have the sag and rebound on your front fork set up correctly?
They're probably close - set to spec for my weight. But I don't think that's it. This has been a weakness of mine for 17 years, and with 2 rigids, a HT, and now my Hi Fi +. I thought the longer wheel base and shallower head tube angle would make a noticeable difference, but it hasn't.

So it's either a fault with my technique, or some sort of bike sizing/setup habit I got into long ago. I've always ridden bikes a little on the smaller side, and with an aggressive (handlebar forward and low) posture. I usually have my seat all the way back, and have even used set-back seatposts. This helps me keep my CG rearward.

Don't get me wrong, I've adapted pretty well by moving back behind my seat on the really steep rocky stuff, but then I see others just sail through it squarely on their seat, and I wonder how they can get away with it.
 

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Size is a personal thing and everyone is built different but is it possible the 17.5" would have been better. I'm 170+ and 5'11" and I also currently ride a Rocky Mountain Fusion 19" but when i did a test ride on a 17.5" fisher it felt a bit better. I'm not sure if Fishers are built a bit different but it is a possibility.

I know you won't want to buy a new one, but i'm curious if a 17.5 with the seat moved back would work better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
dana109 said:
Size is a personal thing and everyone is built different but is it possible the 17.5" would have been better. I'm 170+ and 5'11" and I also currently ride a Rocky Mountain Fusion 19" but when i did a test ride on a 17.5" fisher it felt a bit better. I'm not sure if Fishers are built a bit different but it is a possibility.

I know you won't want to buy a new one, but i'm curious if a 17.5 with the seat moved back would work better.
The smaller bike has a shorter wheelbase and smaller cockpit. I've already got my seat all the way back, and am feeling cramped. I'll be swapping the stem for one that gives me about +10mm rise and +10mm reach. We'll see how that goes.
 
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