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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got a new pro cal frame. I originally had a sugar1, frame cracked, warrantied got new team issue, after a year rear triangle cracked, warrantied new triangle only new one was narrower than the old, so switched tires for some 2.1s, under hard riding heard rubbing and upon inspection found the new tires were rubbing a groove into triangle (carbon).
so, as this is my secondary bike I didnt do too much but this winter I decided to talk to the lbs to see if the part was defective or unusually narrow, He said the trek rep would be in in a week to look .got a call 2 days later from the lbs saying they were shipping me a new 07 pro caliber frame:eekster: :eekster: :eekster:
holy crap! I thought , best case a new triangle, worst case I would buy a new triangle.
anyway it came, they swapped over the parts I could use and I rode it for the first time today. Very nice ride, solid, climbs great, decends great, real solid feeling bike. I stuck with the race lights, my old fork (fox talas) new 07 xtr shifters, xt brake, and the old race face crankset, it still weighs 27lbs , I know if I swapped the fork for a SID I could get it down under 26. BUt my main bike is an Enduro and weighs 36 lbs , so It seems like I'm riding on air as is.
Gary Fisher bikes rule:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 

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I get the tire rub issue on my Pro-Cal (standing steep climbs), I'll be interested to see if you do too. Not really a problem, but it's there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
kdiddy said:
I get the tire rub issue on my Pro-Cal (standing steep climbs), I'll be interested to see if you do too. Not really a problem, but it's there.
where is it rubbing?
 

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It rubs on the left, non drive side chainstay. I haven't noticed any rub marks on the paint yet, so it's not rubbing hard. I don't recall which pedal is being pushed down at the time that it rubs, but it is definitely a low cadence-high power thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
kdiddy said:
It rubs on the left, non drive side chainstay. I haven't noticed any rub marks on the paint yet, so it's not rubbing hard. I don't recall which pedal is being pushed down at the time that it rubs, but it is definitely a low cadence-high power thing.
hmmm, mine doesnt have the stock cranks, I salvaged my raceface next from the old bike.
I'm running wtb weirwolves 2.1 yesterday was my first ride, very muddy, no rubbing though. I've got the racelite ust on the back. I did notice a few scratches on the chain stay so I put a lizard skin protector on it and now that rubs if its not just right. I'm guessing 2.1 is about the limit though, how big are your tires?

OT
I just noticed the cables rubbing off the paint on the rear pivot (above) yours?

1 more question, which model xtr front deraillier do you have the 970 or 971?
 

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Yep, the cable housing rubbed the paint off my pivot in no time.
I got the tire rubbing with both the stock tire and wheel as well as with a Sun Ringle disc-o-tek wheel with a 2.1 IRC Mythos XC tire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
kdiddy said:
Yep, the cable housing rubbed the paint off my pivot in no time.
I got the tire rubbing with both the stock tire and wheel as well as with a Sun Ringle disc-o-tek wheel with a 2.1 IRC Mythos XC tire.
still no tire rubbing with the weirwolve 2.1s, the lbs didnt do the build right tho, I just noticed the brake line removing paint , the crakset is loose , front deraillier isnt right and the shift cable wraps the wrong way. the bike climbs and grips incredibly well though. I usually do my own wrenching but since they got me a free frame I let them do the build. oh well
 

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Hey DanO, how old was your Sugar1? I ask as a friend has a Sugar1 from about 1998-99 and he has a crack in his rear triangle, but the shop he tried to deal with in the US didn't offer much help even in sourcing anew rear triangle for him. If you or anyone knows somewhere to find a rear triangle would be appreciated. BTW what's the warranty on the Sugar frames, is it lifetime?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
LyNx said:
Hey DanO, how old was your Sugar1? I ask as a friend has a Sugar1 from about 1998-99 and he has a crack in his rear triangle, but the shop he tried to deal with in the US didn't offer much help even in sourcing anew rear triangle for him. If you or anyone knows somewhere to find a rear triangle would be appreciated. BTW what's the warranty on the Sugar frames, is it lifetime?
my original sugar 1 was a 2000, the seatpost cracked by the Fd, so they gave me a 04 team issue, then in 05 the rear triangle cracked, so they replaced it with a narrower one (they had a hard time finding one because the original was rim brake and the new are disk only) the narrow one got a groove in it from the 2.1 tire rubbing so they gave me a pro caliber :eek:
Im pretty sure the warranty is lifetime, but I would have been happy after the triangle, I think they went above and beyond what was fair., Tell your friend to ask the shop to set up a meeting with the Fisher rep. He'll take care of you
 

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Since this thread has been dug up again, I'll update on the tire rubbing issue that I had. Yesterday I rode the bike on the same trails that I had the tire rubbing on last time, basically a steep, out-of-the-saddle climb. I replaced the rear skewer with a Delta Axle Rodz bolt on skewer, and I didn't experience any rubbing. I think it made the rear end stiffer. They are only $15 for a pair, and any shop can get them from QBP. All that and they are lighter than the stock skewer too. The only downside is that you have to carry a multitool in case of flats (I do anyhow).
 

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Yeah his is a V-brake model as well. Problem is we are in the Caribbean so "setting up a meeting" isn't going to be easy if you know what I mean :) He rides mainly road these days anyway, but is having soem back trouble and I think some MTBing i.e. not constantly being in the saddle pedaling away would be good for him.

dan0 said:
my original sugar 1 was a 2000, the seatpost cracked by the Fd, so they gave me a 04 team issue, then in 05 the rear triangle cracked, so they replaced it with a narrower one (they had a hard time finding one because the original was rim brake and the new are disk only) the narrow one got a groove in it from the 2.1 tire rubbing so they gave me a pro caliber :eek:
Im pretty sure the warranty is lifetime, but I would have been happy after the triangle, I think they went above and beyond what was fair., Tell your friend to ask the shop to set up a meeting with the Fisher rep. He'll take care of you
 

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kdiddy said:
I'll update on the tire rubbing issue that I had. ....... I replaced the rear skewer with a Delta Axle Rodz bolt on skewer, and I didn't experience any rubbing.
Interesting. I'll have to look into this. I have a new Procaliber Raceday. My rear tire rubs on the front d. when cranking up a steep hill in the granny ring. I've fiddled with the front d. a few times and basically have set as far outboard as I can and still get it to shift into the granny. Still just a little bit of rub.

On another note, I had one of the stainless steel bolts that holds the front pivot together shear off in the frame the other week. It wasn't loose, as a matter of fact it was loctited in. Had to dismantle the frame and bring the front triangle to a machine shop to have the remains of the bolt extracted. Called Trek and asked to have them over-night a new set of bolts (I offered to pay for the parts and shipping) because I was headed out of town two days later on a three day mtb ride. Their response; "We won't ship direct to customer, go to your LBS" "But dude, I'm leaving in two days and they won't be able to get them in time" "Nope, no can do".

Something I'll always remember.
 

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Yep, I had the driveside pivot bolt shear too. Trek only deals through the shops. You might void the warranty by going elsewhere. It's basically so that Trek knows that the stuff is done right and that it's not just someone trying to get some extra parts. Try dealing directly with a car company for a warranty - it's not going to happen. I had no problem getting it warranteed quickly. Maybe the shop that you bought it at can swap the part off another frame while they wait for the part.
 

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Interesting, mine was the drive side bolt too. Sounded like a shot. Thought my chain had snapped or my cassette body had failed at first. I didn't bother with the warranty/shop direction. I had two days to get it fixed, so I did it myself. Got the customer (no) service guy at Trek to give me the proper bolt torque specs and pulled the bike apart. Actually, had a fair amount of trouble sourcing the stainless bolts. I did find them eventually, but I still have the hardened steel bolts that I used as my temp fix in place.

The part you mention about someone trying to get extra parts doesn't really apply, since I offered to pay for the parts and the express shipping. I can understand why they would want to have the shop take a look at it, but given the circumstances I would have appreciated if they had bent their rules a little. I had already sourced the hardened steel bolts that I used for my temp fix or I would have worked up the chain of command at Trek until I foud someone who could say "yes" to my request.

The other interesting thing about this is that the guy at Trek said he had never heard of that particular bolt breaking. It makes me wonder if there is a sourcing problem with the bolts, or a design problem with the frame. I assumed it was a bad bolt since I don't think there was a lot of lateral stress on that area (not enough to break an M-8 stainless bolt).
 

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'07 Supercaliber 29"

Hey guys - wsa just reading your thread - I just got a new supercaliber 29" - got it slightly used, and shipped over to where we live in asia. Upon first ride, the crank was loose, and there was a problem with the chain or r der. Basically those are fixed.

Went for a longer "let's just get a feel for the bike" ride today. Part was on asphalt. When on the asphalt, sitting up and letting go of the bar caused a massive wobble in the front end.

Is this normal? Seems hugely unstable. The procal is the same frame - just curious of your thoughts. I haven't been on any longer off road rides - will be doing that in a few weeks. Thanks

Ric
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
ricschoon said:
Hey guys - wsa just reading your thread - I just got a new supercaliber 29" - got it slightly used, and shipped over to where we live in asia. Upon first ride, the crank was loose, and there was a problem with the chain or r der. Basically those are fixed.

Went for a longer "let's just get a feel for the bike" ride today. Part was on asphalt. When on the asphalt, sitting up and letting go of the bar caused a massive wobble in the front end.

Is this normal? Seems hugely unstable. The procal is the same frame - just curious of your thoughts. I haven't been on any longer off road rides - will be doing that in a few weeks. Thanks

Ric
could be the headset need adjusting or replacement
 

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I also had the drive side bolt break.

Last week I sheared off the drive side bolt on my Supercaliber during a hard climb at a local race. I had the local shop contact the Trek/Fisher rep to discuss the problem and his sugestion was to try to extract the bolt myself and they would ship new bolts. I was told that the bolt was aluminum and it should come out with no problems. I knew there was no way that Fisher would put an aluminum bolt in that location and sure enough it is steel. After a guarantee that I would not void my warrenty I gave it a try. I mangaged to get a hole drilled, but the bolt was so tight that I broke off the EZ-Out. I was able to tap the EZ-Out through, but made the decision to send in the frame.

This weekend I took a look at the current production models for the Supercaliber 29er and they have competely redesigned the main pivot area. Instead of two bolts that thread into the frame from both sides and have a sleeve between the bolt and the bearing. It now has on large aluminum bolt that had the same O.D. as the I.D. of the bearings and slides through the entire frame bolting on one side. Ir eally like the new desing and it should be much more reliable. I hope they are not able to extract the bolt and I at least get a new front triangle. I am afraid that the same failure will happen again. BTW I only weight 140# and strictly ride XC. I would like to think that I have that type of power, but I'm afraid it is a poor design.

Although I was told (by the Fisher Rep) that they have not seen this problem, they must have know it was an issue because they have redesigned that interface. How many people have experienced this problem?
 

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This is the kind of stuff that makes my ******** meter peg. Three riders, on just this forum, have the exact same problem with the exact same bolt, only to be told by the manufacturer that "They had never heard of this problem".

As you suspected, it is an M8 stainless steel bolt that holds that assembly together. It is also loctited in at about 300 in-lbs of torque. If you have this problem again, strip the bike to the front triangle and take it to a machine shop. It cost me $10 (plus I tipped the guy $10) to have it pulled. Took all of 10 minutes to get it done and they have the right tools for the job. You can find the bolts at a good hardware store. They cost about $2 each. Instead of having to ship my bike all over the place, I had it back up and running within 24 hours.

I'm not sure make the bolt go through will solve the problem. If there is enough stress to break the bolt in the first place, then it will break if it is through also. Or worse, it will bend and you will never be able to get it out without cutting it off first.

I think it might have been a case of a bad batch of bolts. I've had my new ones in since April, and I've been riding pretty hard (and I weigh a bit more) without a repeat (so far).
 

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I haven't seen the new through-bolt design, but if it gets rid of having the threads on th bolts at the high-stress junction where the pivot bearing meets the frame, then it should fix the problem. My bolt snapped at this point, as I suspect everyone elses did too. Fisher sent me a new front triangle because i pointed out that the last part of the thread in the frame had broken off - thus creating a cantilever load on the bolt rather than a pure shear load. I have no complaints since I got the bike back together. The shop even gave me a spare bolt in case it happens again. I know many people that have supercal 29ers that haven't had the issue. The longer chainstays on the 29er should create more force on the bolt, so I'm chaulking up these failures to a bad batch of bolts. Only time will tell though.
 
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