[Charlo489]

So I've read Musson's book and think I'm gonna try changing my rim on my rear wheel. I'll buy some new spokes as well but will keep the same hub. The hub is a formula (commencal clash 2019 bike) and there is no model number on the hub and formula's website has many boost 148 hubs on their page but I don't know which one I have and besides, they don't list any specs at all.

In that cases, I guess my only option is to measure everything myself ? Any tips or some other pages I could look to determine my model and get some specs ?

 

[J.B. Weld]

It's usually best to measure them yourself anyway, I'm sure Musson's book must have a tutorial. It isn't hard, just take care and make sure your measurements are accurate.

Be extra careful with erd, it's best to take several measurements from different places on the rim and average the results if necessary. Getting that number as close to right as possible is critical.

 

[Lone Rager]

I always measure. If I know the model of hub, I'll select it and then confirm the measurements. Using a dial (or digital) caliper is best/easiest. They're pretty cheap at Home Depot/Lowes, on-line, etc... It's also best to measure and confirm rim ERD, though in the last few years all the rims I've gotten were right on ERD wise.

 

[J.B. Weld]

^ I agree, ime factory stated erd's have almost always been good but even if it's available it's not a bad idea to double check them.

 

[GuitsBoy]

ERD measurement is critical. In my experience, hub measurement is pretty tolerant of being off by a couple mm. With ERD, the spoke goes in at nearly a 90 degree angle, so every mm needs a mm in spoke length. At the hub, a change in flange diameter is a more lateral movement for the spoke rather than axial. You could increase the flange diameter or location by quite a few mm and probably still need exactly the same spoke length. 3-Cross is more tolerant than then 2-cross, etc. But it never hurts to be as accurate as possible.

 

[Charlo489]

All right I do have a caliper, thanks for the tip ! By the way, I plan on buying a dt swiss ex 511 or Fr 560 rim and they come with squorx nipples and washer. I ordered the park tool nipple driver but it won't work with those torx nipples, can I use standard nipples without washers on those rims ? Otherwise I'll cancel my park tool order and get the dt swiss driver.

 

[J.B. Weld]

I wouldn't worry about a nipple driver for just one wheel, it won't take that long to run them down with a spoke wrench.

 

[Charlo489]

well it certainly won't be my last wheel build ! So..should I use standard nipples without washers on those dt swiss rims or go with the squorx ones ?

 

[J.B. Weld]

well it certainly won't be my last wheel build ! So..should I use standard nipples without washers on those dt swiss rims or go with the squorx ones ?

I'd go with the ones the rim comes with since they're probably ideal for it, plus they're free!

I used the nipple drivers when I worked at shops of course but just building a wheel for myself every year or so it's really no big deal to get along without one. An awl (or sharpened spoke) is super handy, you can stick it in the end of a nipple and it will hold enough to put it in the rim and run it most of the way down on the spoke. From there you can take over with a spoke wrench.

You can buy the tool of course, just saying I wouldn't worry about it too much one way or the other.

 

[Charlo489]

Oh well nice to know, I'll cancel my order then. I'll just use my owl or use Musson's trick with the q-tips

 

[Charlo489]

Today I measured my hub and I used 2 calculators to get my correct spoke length. I used the ERD provided by dt swiss on their page. Both calulators gave me 273 mm and 271 mm. Now it seems dt swiss only sell 274 and 272 mm. Would that be good ?

The dt swiss rim comes with washer and squorx nipples, do I need to account for the washer thickness when using the dt swiss calculator ?

 

[Charlo489]

I noticed sapim does make spokes of 271 and 273 mm, if I go with sapim, can I still use the dt swiss squorx nipples supplied with the rim ?

 

[J.B. Weld]

Does the DT site mention the supplied washers in regards to their listed erd? Usually you would measure erd with the nipple washers.

Based on the info I'd probably go 272/274mm.

 

[Charlo489]

Well I plan on measuring myself the erd before ordering the spokes but when I choose the correct rim from their list, it automatically enters the erd and I have no idea if the washers are calculated or not

 

[matt4x4]

Watch lots of youtube on wheel lacing.
Triple check every measurement.
I remember I bought one rim, the manufacturers website stated one ERD, but the place where I bought the custom cut spokes measured that same rim and had another ERD. Much respected bicycle shop it was, so I took their word on it and it all worked out fine. If your taking it slow, order the rim first and measure the ERD yourself.

 

[markopic]

All right I do have a caliper, thanks for the tip ! By the way, I plan on buying a dt swiss ex 511 or Fr 560 rim and they come with squorx nipples and washer. I ordered the park tool nipple driver but it won't work with those torx nipples, can I use standard nipples without washers on those rims ? Otherwise I'll cancel my park tool order and get the dt swiss driver.

If you go with DT Swiss rims, use supplied squorx niples and washers. They are standard torx size and you do not need to oil the spokes when tightening the wheel.

I have build several wheels with DT Swiss components after reading absolutely great Musson book, and every one of them is working without any problems (or need to adjust them).

Measure everything precisely as you can, take time to properly lace the wheel, and take even more time to tighten the spokes. Although it is not required, I really like to use spoke tension meter, so I can compare spoke tensions with similar wheel. Also, the key to durable wheel is even spoke tension, so take your time to get deviation between spoke tensions on each side of the wheel as minimal as you can.