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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off: thanks to all of you that have taken the time to post info on this site about these bikes! In real life I'm a traveling snowboard photographer that finds himself with a grip of non-shooting days in a lot of snowbound locations. When the weather is bad or the conditions aren't prime for snowboarding. I plan on filling that time grinding trails on a fat bike!

Luckily, I spend a bunch of time in Jackson, WY every year so I'm planning on being around for the http://www.togwoteewinterclassic.blogspot.com in March.

I've been scoping the boards for a couple months trying to decide what to build. And, although I realize some of this has probably already been covered I figured I'd pose a couple questions concerning my own build to get some advice.

Here's what I've ordered from Chain Reaction:

9:Zero:7 Aluminum frame - medium
Vicious Graceful Fat Sheba rims x2 - offset
Surly Pugsley 135mm fork
FSA ISIS 100mm bottom bracket
Surly Endomorph tires

Here's what I have laying around that I'm hoping to use on this monstrosity:

Shimano Saint Rear Derailleur & shifter
Shimano Saint Brakes
SRAM 9 speed cassette
Lizard Skins Peaty Grips
Chris King headset
Shimano DX platform SPD pedals or Crank Brothers 50/50's

I found these at a City Bikes, a used co-op bike shop here in Portland:

XTR E-type front derailleur - $10!
Truvativ ISIS crankset - $20!

Here's what I'm looking at purchasing to complete the build:

Bars: Easton Monkey Lite DH bar 30mm rise
Stem: Truvativ Team SL 31.8mm
Seatpost: Easton EA70 2 Bolt Seatpost
Seat: WTB SIlverado Pro Saddle
Rear Hub: Shimano XT Disc M775
Front Hub: Surly Disc/Fixed hub

I haven't decided on spokes, spoke nipples, chain ring sizes, front shifter or an appropriate cog for the fixed hub yet. That's something I'm hoping you all can help out with. Not sure if it matters but I'm 200lbs, 5'10" with a 29" inseam. Stubby legs, I know.

I'm building the wheels myself. I've built a couple sets of wheels, (and by a couple I mean exactly two sets) and I'm wondering if there are any specific pitfalls I should be aware of? I was thinking of using the DT 1.8 or 2.0 competition spokes and DT nipples. Is 14 gauge a reasonable size? How do I space the hub in the truing stand to compensate for the 17.5mm offset when I'm building it? I'm working with a Park TS 2.2 stand, dishing tool & Park tensiometer. Also, do I need to do any special calculation when figuring out spoke length aside from the normal parameter on the DT calculator?

I decided on the XT rear hub because of the cup & cone design for easy rebuilding and packing with cold weather grease. I've had good luck with them on other bikes. I'm wondering if it's a good idea to flush out the freehub body & use a more weather specific grease like the Lectric lube? What's a good grease for the non-freehub bearings?

Is there a more serviceable 135mm front hub option for a disk brake and a fixed cog? The Surly hub has cartridge bearings, which bums me out a bit. And since the fixed front hub is sort of an emergency rear wheel option does anyone have a recommendation on a number of teeth? I was thinking of running a 22/34 front chainring option, if that helps.

Also, I'd like to drill out the Fat Sheba offset rims. The guys at Chain Reaction suggested 1 3/8" hole sizing. I'm planning on drilling them out with a high-speed drill and using a pilot hole. Is there anything I should keep an eye on?

I'm on the fence about using the Saint derailleur. Is it possible to use a Shimano friction shifter with the Paul thumb deal for this instead of the Saint shifter? I'm guessing it's not a problem but I figured I better ask around.

I've read that the mineral oil in Shimano brakes will freeze in colder temps. I've experienced this with the XT brakes on my XC bike during rides just around 20F. I also have the option of running some Avid Juicy 7's from another bike that uses DOT fluid. I've also considered dropping in on the BB7's. This raises my cost, (a cost my girlfriend would already like to string me up for) and brings me to this:

Cables: What are you all using for brake/derailleur housing & cable? Is there any specific cold-weather lube for this or is the Lectric lube good to go?

I realize I've asked a lot of questions and any help you can provide will be greatly appreciated. I can't wait for the frame to get here in a couple weeks so I can get out on the snow while I'm traveling around.

Many Thanks!

- Tim
 

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Timz73 said:
I've read that the mineral oil in Shimano brakes will freeze in colder temps.
Back when I used to ride trials (and I don't mean TRAILS) a lot in Maine, the mineral oil in Maguras (HS-33's) would get really thick and sluggish in sub-freezing temps. I tried bleeding the brakes with antifreeze and it worked much better. Apparently it can do some damage to the seals after a while, but I never had any problems after rebleeding with mineral oil once spring rolled around.
I've even heard of people bleeding their brakes with water in the summer (pistons retract quicker apparently), but that obviously won't work in cold temps...
 

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Good luck with your build! Sounds like it will be nice, and Jackson Hole will be a great place to take it! Post some pics when you get them!

I have my Pugs set up as a 1X9. I am running Avid BB7 mechanical disc brakes and a SRAM X.9 rear derailleur. I am using Jagwire Ripcord cables for both the brakes and the rear derailleur. The Ripcords use a Kevlar reinforced housing and Teflon coated cable, which makes them smooth as butter!

I don't really have any experience with running hydro's in the winter. I have heard rumors of them getting sluggish due to the extreme cold, but haven't personally seen it. Everyone else that I know who rides in the winter also, seems to use mechanical brakes.

Chris
 

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Hi Tim,
I live in Portland too. I found some cool spots here it town to ride that aren't that illegal ;) . So let me know when you are done and maybe we can ride some day. For that matter, feel free to give me a shout if you want to check out my build in person. Sounds like you will have ample opportunity to get some good snow riding in though.

First, I am a bit curious if you can actually use an offset pug fork with a 9zero7 frame. I haven't done any research on that frame, but I am sure you have and probably know what you are doing. If the 9zero7 isn't offset, then you may not be able to swap the wheels. If that's the cause, then you are wasting your time/money with the offset pug fork.

Timz73 said:
Is there a more serviceable 135mm front hub option for a disk brake and a fixed cog? The Surly hub has cartridge bearings, which bums me out a bit. And since the fixed front hub is sort of an emergency rear wheel option does anyone have a recommendation on a number of teeth? I was thinking of running a 22/34 front chainring option, if that helps.
- Tim
The hub i chose was the Paul Word fixed/disk (sealedEnduro cartridge bearings). I would've used the surly hub, but i needed 36h for my LM's. I think 22/34 would be good. I have 18/32 which is good for pavement, but if i were in an emergency wilderness situation, i think I would be better off with 20/32 or even 22/32. The only other fixed/disc option available is Phil Wood ($$$).

I'm building the wheels myself. I've built a couple sets of wheels, (and by a couple I mean exactly two sets) and I'm wondering if there are any specific pitfalls I should be aware of? I was thinking of using the DT 1.8 or 2.0 competition spokes and DT nipples. Is 14 gauge a reasonable size? How do I space the hub in the truing stand to compensate for the 17.5mm offset when I'm building it? I'm working with a Park TS 2.2 stand, dishing tool & Park tensiometer. Also, do I need to do any special calculation when figuring out spoke length aside from the normal parameter on the DT calculator?
I took the City BIkes wheel building class to build my pug wheels. It's pretty straight forward after dealing with the offset/spoke calc. I went with their method of hand measuring, but the spokes came out a good bit longer than was ideal, but still worked. I used spocalc from the Sheldon site (xls download) and it worked great for the front wheel (would've been better for the rear too cause it gave me shorter spoke lengths). Does the 2.2 need the extenders? If not that you are solid, BUT you need the dishing tool that comes with the pug frame. These instructions are helpful.
I don't think you really need the tool though and i don't think the dishing really needs to be so surgical. Lace it up, get some tension, then put it in the fork to see if the rim looks 'in the middle". If so, then true. Check it occasionally while you are truing.

Good luck. This is a pretty unique build, so keep us updated.
 

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aljee said:
.
First, I am a bit curious if you can actually use an offset pug fork with a 9zero7 frame. I haven't done any research on that frame, but I am sure you have and probably know what you are doing. If the 9zero7 isn't offset, then you may not be able to swap the wheels. If that's the cause, then you are wasting your time/money with the offset pug fork.
135 mm is fine. i prefer a 100mm w/80mm rims but that's just me.
 

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build

If you use hydro brakes,use the brakes with DOT fluid(BB7s rock)
Use the WTB 2.5 or Quality 2.7 tubes.not the Surlys(very heavy)
Try running your bars HIGH,as in level with your seat.
butted spokes with brass nips
use low spoke tension if the rims are drilled
if you ride a lot on softer trails,run a 34in the rear and then a standard rings in front 32/22. Ditch the big ring.

If its cold there...Pogies

akdeluxe
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the responses!

It looks like I’ll go with the Juicy 7 brakes and the Paul WORD fixed disk hub.

Aljee, I’m up for that trade. I’ll send you a PM.

I’ll make sure I get some photos of the build up as it’s happening.

- Tim
 
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