I'd switch the maxflex for H6flex, to have more more output available. Running 3 XMLs at 1300mA doesn't make much difference than running 3 XPGs. With XPGs you have wider variety of optics available. Since you'll be using separate PCBs you could combine different optics for flood ant throw.
Toaster79, Ok I'll switch to the H6flex and I stick with the XMLs and do different optics for flood and throw? If so should I do 1 flood and 2 throw or 2 flood and 1 throw? Could you or someone help me pick the optics I need?
Depends on what kind of beam pattern you like and where you ride. About the beams, check this thread, and all the others that mention XM-L in their title. Than again it also depend of your housing design. Most popular optics for XM-L would be Ledil Laura, LXP, LM-1, Iris, maybe Fraen FRC-N 32mm reflector for ultimate throw and you could find some others to. Do some reading in this forum, and you'll choose exactly what you want.
If you are going to run 3 XML, that battery holder isn't a good choice if you end up running the Maxflex.. It is for 4S1P which will make a 14.8v pack. For the Maxflex, you need the 2S2P holder.
Now, if you end up running the H6flex, the one you linked to will work good.
Make sure you pay attention to what type of driver you get before you decide on a pack.
You have buck, and boost type drivers.
With a buck type driver, the general rule of thumb is to make the pack out of as many serial cells as you have LEDs plus 1 cell.
So a 3 LED light would use a 4Serial pack.
With a boost type driver it is the opposite.
3 cells would need a 2Serial pack.
Read the tech docs for each type of driver and it will all make sense.
Also, that cable gland is REALLY expensive.
I almost ended up ordering the same thing and was pointed in the right direction by a member.
I ended up going all crazy and ordered 4 different types of glands, and several of each type.
I have a box full of just cable glands.
I'll send you one for the cost of postage. Just PM me.
Your battery charger won't work right with that battery pack. I'm not quite sure if you are planning on charging your batteries individually, or as a pack. If you are going separate, I know it's not the best quality, but I use an Ultrafire WF-139 that has worked well for nearly two years.
If as a pack, you must use a charger with balancing taps.
Thanks for all the replys and pm's. Looks like I'm going to do a lot more reading before buying anything. Now I'm thinking maybe my first build should be something a little more simple light a single light for maybe my helmet.
I was digging through some of my old RC stuff and ran across this Battery Would I be able to use this for maybe a single XML or something else later on?
Not a bad call.
A great first build would be a single XML/Regina/LFlex/Troutie housing using a 1s2p 3.7v battery.
Unless you want to build the housing yourself.
Doing a first build is hard enough worrying about getting all the soldering/wiring correct, if you can build around a pre built housing, it makes it a much more enjoyable, fun process.
Save the complicated stuff for a future build.
Keeping it simple will get your light built much quicker too.
With a single XML running at full 3 amps you would get about 1 hour 45 min, give or take a bit.
I just ordered a few of these to play around with. http://www.batteryspace.com/limnnirechargeable26650cell37v4000mah10arated148wh.aspx
Planning on making some really simple single XML builds with them.
Great for a helmet setup using just the 1 cell.
4 hours at 1amp
2 hours at 2 amp
1 hour 20 min at 3 amp
Perfect in my book for a simple helmet setup.
I usually only run my lights at full whack for very short periods of time over a 2-3 hour ride, as 80% of our ride time is climbing, it is almost always on low.
You could easily make a pack out of 2 of those cells I linked to and double the runtimes I listed.
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