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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Audio equipment Mask Personal protective equipment Grey Household hardware


Not such a long time ago …. I didn't know anything about bike lights. But my Sigma Sport Evo and Evo-X lights were just not really bright enough for the bike rides I do and they didn't work long enough anymore from the single battery pack. I made a internet search last summer and found this page. I learned a lot and bought two cheap little direct drive torches from dealextreme.com - what a difference to my old lights! Then I read on and learned some more. Never done any soldering before I started building my own bike light. Because this was only possible because master Troutie and you other craftsmen showed here how it was done, I will present my unworthy light(s) on this page as well.
Cap:
reflecting cap, Enclousure Box , h6flex Diver , Aluminum Angle: from local store , LED XM-L T6, Optics , Reflector ,
switch: free sample from local shop, springs: from a broken cheep bike light, sugru, plastidip , mount: from my sigma sport evo light,
epoxy (2K-Epoxikitt) , Batteries

The cheap P7 (including the magicshine bike-light) and XM-L torches from china for me have a too distinguished hot spot for a bar light. That hot spot tends to get "imprinted" on my regina after a long ride, especially in wet conditions and snow. That is why intended to build a floody light with no hot spot - and no disturbing cables. The light should also be visible from the side, but not blinding and it should light up the ground next to the front wheel (liberate the light as the master says).

Electronic device Technology Laptop accessory Grey Rectangle


Office supplies Rectangle Paper Silver Aluminium


Photograph Metal Jewellery Earrings Grey


Machine Office supplies Office equipment Household appliance accessory Number


Iron Metal Household hardware Aluminium Steel


Rectangle Still life photography Gemstone Silver Diamond


Product Light Automotive lighting Black Grey


Grey Machine Parallel Metal Aluminium


View attachment 601415

Thoughts: I thought the boom reflector would give me a bit of long throw, that is why I put it on a separate aluminum angle pointing a bit higher, to light up the area further away than the two LED with optics. But even the Boom SS dosen't concentrate the flood of the XM-L! My light has a huge, even spread of light, right back behind my front wheel! The p7-lights gave me the feeling of riding in a dark tunnel with the brightly lit end in front of me. With my capped light I have the feeling of driving in the light.
The lowest mode (50 ma !!!) gives a nice, not blinding light, enough to ride uphill and flat gravelroads - that is the mode I use most. I have not decided jet what level I will use on faster downhills and single track downhills - everything above 800 ma is very bright, not much difference between 1600ma and 2800ma any more to the naked eye.
The light is very heavy when filled with the four 18650 cells (400 g, empty 214 g). I wander how long the little screw in the mount will hold …

Little silver riding hood:

This light is only used when driving fast (downhill) in addition to the cap.

Torch-body, Drop-in , Glass lens , Velcro-strap: from local store, Thermal glue,
Clear epoxy glue ,

I just unscrewed the head from the torch, took the outer spring away from the drop-in and after sandpapering the copper base of the drop-in I could press it in the torch body. I used some thermal glue to make sure it is watertight and the thermal connection might be a bit better too. I glued the lens into the reflector with araldite cristal. The light sits right on top of the helmet, a sticky Velcro bit on the helmet, the counterpart on the torch to keep it moving and a Velcro strap around the helmet and torch to hold it down.
Thoughts: I would like the little silver riding hood to be more of a thrower - it might get a bigger and deeper hood (Reflector) or a aspheric lens to do that. The light is slightly greenish.
 

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Looks like a great first design. You've put alot more work into the design than I care to on my lights.....= )
Nifty use of the Sugru there.
I'm building my buddy a road dedicated light, and will do a similar type of hood.
Any chance of getting some beamshots?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
PHP:
I'm building my buddy a road dedicated light, and will do a similar type of hood.
Any chance of getting some beamshots?
The wine-bottle-drip-stop that I used for a cap does not reflect all the light. When I put the light on brightly I can actually see through it - but the light doesen't blind me any more. I tried to get even more light down on the ground an added the optic cut in half on the top two XM-L that you can see on the first picture. I can't use my light on high when on a oad - it is really blinding. If you want't to use it on the road the hood would have to bee much longer.

I can't change the exposure time on my digital camera (or does anybody know how to do that on a canon ixus 65). I can put it on iso 200 any try a shot on "firework","night" or "day" and see what happens...
 

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savagemann said:
Looks like a great first design. You've put alot more work into the design than I care to on my lights.....= )
Nifty use of the Sugru there.
I'm building my buddy a road dedicated light, and will do a similar type of hood.
Any chance of getting some beamshots?
I made a road light a few weeks ago. Main thing is to put the LED's as close to the hood as possible, meaning LEDs should be placed inline, the closer to the roof the better. My hood is about 60mm long, helps alot for road use but I still have to point it slightly down. If I place my light lower down, above the front wheel, I probably can aim my light straight down the road.Some quick pics. Dimpled metal sheet on inside of hood is to spread light instead of getting mirror reflected hotspot.

Crappy beamshot is compared to my 6xpe (new road light 3xpg), guess you can figure out which is which...

(sorry for stealing thread).

Rectangle Cameras & optics Electronics Plastic


Electronic device Technology Cable Scale Postal scale


Bicycle handlebar Bicycle accessory Bicycle part Bicycle Bicycle wheel rim


Nature Natural environment Atmosphere Photograph White


Nature Blue Natural environment Atmosphere Night
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
P220C said:
P220C You did it !!!
Do you have that on the helmet in the rain? - Might end up with curly hair!
You really buld something small - must be a tiny switch and driver you are using.

But I see a new project coming up ... 79 g to beat:crazy:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Beamshots

OK, here the beamshots:
Bottles at 10m, 20m, 40m
Signpost at 30 m
safety cone 50m, 75 m
reflecting safety vest 100m

cap at 50 mA (reflecting spot of safety vest)
Bicycle wheel Bicycle tire Bicycle frame Bicycle accessory Darkness


cap at 3000mA
Nature Green Bicycle wheel Grass Bicycle tire


spiderfire p7 high
Green Night Darkness Light Black


The light realy spreads out nicely on the side of the bike. I don't have the feeling of riding in a black tunnel with the light in front of me - I'm riding in the light now. The eye adapts much better to this light, you don't see the bright hot spot like with the p7 light. The too brightly lit up area at 3000mA can hardly be seen in the woods - I was surprised to see it on the photo!
I use the 50mA mode to ride up, the cap lights the path up about 25 Meters in front of you (and 5 Meters around you). The photo seems to dark.

More photos in the "sticky" beamshot thread.
 

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