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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi.

I've just finished my first DIY light. I've been using a cnc mill to create the housing. The project has been going on for a while, since all the milling has been done at school. I'm quite happy with the result.

I've been testing it indoor (~21 degrees C) with no airflow and it doesn't dim with the thermal protection set at 60degr and I can still hold it in my hand without getting burned.

Part list
Housing: Custom aluminium
LED: 4x XP-G R5 (led-tech.de)
Reflector: Regina (led-tech.de)
Driver: MaxFlex5A (taskled.com)
Button from CRC (https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=52251)
Connectors from DX (https://www.dealextreme.com/p/5-4mm-male-to-female-extension-cable-for-sku-29489-30864-100cm-32751)
Cable glands from ELFA (https://www.elfa.se/elfa3~se_sv/elfa/init.do?item=55-188-35&toc=19896)

And now; a lot of pictures!


Received some xp-g:s and Reginas last autumn. Trimmed the legs of at once.


Started off with a solid piece of ali. Each hole took about 3min to drill. Wasn't as fast as I thought it should be.


Testing the coolant system while milling the backplate. It needed some improvements.


It start to look like a housing. There's place for four 20mm stars.


Some more milling done and a lot more hours spent. Could have made another light out of the chips. :D


Since the milling was done in several occasions I did some other preparations in between. Here I added a status led to the button cable.


Soldered the leds together and made sure they worked. Notice the prototype of the housing made out of plastic.


Finally the house was finished and I started to mount things.


No problem fitting the MaxFlex in the rear. A lot harder to solder all the cables though.


Reflectors fitted


Back of the housing


Power connected and turned on for the first time. Instead of the expected magic blue smoke this is what came out of it. :thumbsup:


Almost the final version! At least a usable one. Front and front glass mounted and some modified flash light mounts from dx to. Will make some other mounts later on though.


Mounted on the bike, right where it's supposed to be!

And since no thread is complete without beamshots:
The big tree is about 25m away. Didn't have time to find a bigger place dark enough.


MS900 @ full power (for comparison)


4x XP-G @ 350mA


4x XP-G @ 750mA


4x XP-G @ 1300mA
 

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Dirt Deviant
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Great work!!!!!
Very creative design. You've given me some ideas!!!!
Awesome step by step run through from start to finish.
What are you running for batteries? 7.4V?
Beamshots look good!!!
If you don't mind I may try to sort of copy your design using a drill press and hand tools.....make a mini dual XML version....= )
Gotta love the round bottom fins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks!
I think I've just picked up some ideas from different builds here and forged them together into something that became this light.
I like to photograph the process. In that way I can look back at what I've done.
I'm running 7.4V batteries, since I want to be able to mix lights and batteries without any trouble.
You're more than welcome to copy the design! It's just showing that I did something right. ;) I'm actually thinking about building a helmet light with similar design. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks everyone! Wasn't expecting that much nice words. :)

emu26: It sure is! Will probably be running it at 750mA most of the time.

BKruahnndon: It sure is heavy. I guess I could shave of 50-100g doing it now. But I had never used a mill before this project so there were a lot of margins. Wanted to be on the safe side.

kan3: It is a cnc converted Optimum BF20 L Vario. Actually don't know much about it.

HHIH: Yes, it is momentary. Not much info at crc, but I ordered it when I ordered a lot of other stuff so I figured it should be worth a try.
 

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P220C said:
Nice light, and great photog work.

I never thought of using a drill press like that.
He's using a mill..not a drill press. Some people do convert a drill press to function like a mill, it is not recommended though since a drill press is not build to handle the side load.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Odtexas: Thanks. The documentation is nothing compared to yours though. The plastic prototype is nice. Didn't want to realise something didn't fit when it all was milled.:)

Kan3: Yes, it is nice. Does what I want to. Can get a bit hot after some hours, but I guess there's nothing to do about that.

Yetibetty: Thanks a lot. I don't know the tint right away. I think I can check when I'm home from school.

P220C: it's my sister who should have the cred for the beamshots. The other are mostly shot with my phone just to show what I've been doing. As anthonylokrn said I've been using a mill, but the the holes could as well have been done using a drill press.

Bravellir: Thanks. Was a bit worried about the fins but they turned out good. Drill press should be good to do the holes.
 

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that's such an innovative way to make a housing. I was puzzled when I saw the first picture of the block of alu, but then it became obvious what you were doing. Really neat.

Now you just need to get a h6flex, a bigger battery pack and 4 XM-Ls :)
 

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Nice build! About the battery and the maxflex, it woul'd be more appropriate to run 3S battery pack so Mr. MaxFlex doesn't have that hard of a job to do, and won't heat up as much. You're running 4 XP-G's at approx 13V Vf but your fully loaded pack makes only 8.4V, so maxflex has to step up for aditional 4.6V, but with fully loaded 3S pack the voltage difference would be only 0,6V in the beginning so almost direct drive.
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the VF need to be measured at low currents to figure out which pack to run with a maxflex? Like what current you are running when dimmed?
And from my understanding, you don't want the maxflex going out of regulation.
Or maybe I've just been erring on the safe side.
 

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savagemann said:
Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the VF need to be measured at low currents to figure out which pack to run with a maxflex?.
Correct
At the lowest setting you can expect around 3.0 VF give a take a small amount. In terms of keeping the setup in regulation...it's what I've attempted when built mine. In his case, it would just mean that he shouldn't use the low setting until the battery voltage drops a little. Usually it seems you can get away with 1 cell less than the number of LED in a serial config.
 
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