I've had zero problems with my CR-18s. I'm also running an Adventurer on my Xtracycle. It was not the easiest build ever, and the rimahas no eyelets, but it seems to be holding up fine.
I am leaning towrads the CR18s, but I think the Adventurer now has eyelets...jonassterling said:I've had zero problems with my CR-18s. I'm also running an Adventurer on my Xtracycle. It was not the easiest build ever, and the rimahas no eyelets, but it seems to be holding up fine.
I built up a set of surly SS / Disc hub, 36H with alex rims this fall. (I'm a big guy, 200 lbs, hence 36h) I've not really put this bike to test yet. One surprise was chainline with the Surly hub with SS setup, using ACS claw freewheel. The chainline is way out there (54.5mm for me). This meant my crankset wouldn't work with a normal width bottom bracket. I was so proud that I was using a BMX 175 ISIS crankset (made by FMF, 110 five arm BCD) only to be stunned when the chainline was so far off. This crankset only has one mounting position for the front chainring (equivalent to the center position on a three chainring crankarm.) I ended up using a 128mm wide downhill style bottom bracket. Jury is still out if the wider pedal placement is noticable. In retrospect, I almost wish I had used a normal hub with spacers to set chainline where ever. That would have been lots cheaper anyway. (I'm still irked that ebay nearly new Bottom brackets go for pennies on the dollar. Not sure why that part won't hold its value. Mine is virtually new... never spun crank arm more than five times around, never had pedals even attached. Anybody need a 118mm ISIS BB cheap? )bikertim said:It's been too long. My Inbred is still sittin' in the workstand incomplete. I've taken most of my stuff off the 26er and am stuck at the wheel decision. I'm kinda going economy here but want to know what people think about the following wheel build:
Hubs - Surly New Disc QR (or would bolt ons be better?)
Spokes - DT Champion 2.0 w/brass nipples
Rims - Alex Adveturer or Sun CR18
Has anyone got any info on the Alex rims? There a few dollars less than the Suns and a smidge wider. The wheels will be 32 spokes, cross three lacing front and rear. I know Qrs will save some weight, but are there any disadvantages to them? The hubs are a constant with me as I will be going to disc brakes eventually.
Any thoughts, please HELP!!!!!![]()
What frame are you on? Is it track style dropouts? I was kinda thinking about a standard hub with spacers as well. I've seen some DirtWerks SS hubs that accept a cassette cog, but I am limited in knowledge of DirtWerks - I've only used their brake pads previously. Even though the hubs are short money, I'm a little leery of their durablility - so Surly it is!!!zipzit said:I built up a set of surly SS / Disc hub, 36H with alex rims this fall. (I'm a big guy, 200 lbs, hence 36h) I've not really put this bike to test yet. One surprise was chainline with the Surly hub with SS setup, using ACS claw freewheel. The chainline is way out there (54.5mm for me). This meant my crankset wouldn't work with a normal width bottom bracket. I was so proud that I was using a BMX 175 ISIS crankset (made by FMF, 110 five arm BCD) only to be stunned when the chainline was so far off. This crankset only has one mounting position for the front chainring (equivalent to the center position on a three chainring crankarm.) I ended up using a 128mm wide downhill style bottom bracket. Jury is still out if the wider pedal placement is noticable. In retrospect, I almost wish I had used a normal hub with spacers to set chainline where ever. That would have been lots cheaper anyway. (I'm still irked that ebay nearly new Bottom brackets go for pennies on the dollar. Not sure why that part won't hold its value. Mine is virtually new... never spun crank arm more than five times around, never had pedals even attached. Anybody need a 118mm ISIS BB cheap? )
If you want a crank bash guard with the Surly SS hubs, you will have to go with the extra wide BB width. Not a major big deal, but something to keep in mind.
I did go with the track nuts (front and rear) and I really like how they look and feel. With my frame you have to carry tools to change a flat anyway, so a 15mm box end wrench isn't a big deal. I have seen axle slip on this bike with quick releases (during braking.)
Anyway, just my $0.02 on this topic.
Good luck with the build (Note: I got some pretty good advice from this web site on wheel & spoke purchases.. I ended up with double butted spokes from odds and endos. I was very happy with their service.)
bikertim said:What frame are you on? Is it track style dropouts? I was kinda thinking about a standard hub with spacers as well. I've seen some DirtWerks SS hubs that accept a cassette cog, but I am limited in knowledge of DirtWerks - I've only used their brake pads previously. Even though the hubs are short money, I'm a little leery of their durablility - so Surly it is!!!
Pulled the trigger today - ordered the Surly QR Disc SS hubs and Exi's...CR-18's and DT straight guage spokes to follow...can't wait to get them done!!!Thor29 said:The Inbred has sliding dropouts - get the QR hubs. There's no good reason to use the nutty version on that bike.
By the way, Surly makes a nice 15mm wrench called the Jethro Tool for the non QR hubs. Kinda pricey, but I carry it with me when I ride my track bike longer distances. And of course, it opens beer bottles too.