[sandwich]

I'm looking to find the reach measurement on a large mason, which isn't listed on the website for whatever reason. I call up the only CS# they have. Moron on the other end sez "All of the geometry figures are listed on the website". Moron proceeds to start reading me the geometry figures from top to bottom. I interrupt moron and say "I need the reach measurement, I have everything on the website". Moron replies "That's the measurement from top of the headtube to middle of saddle, that's 24.4". "No," I suggest to the moron on the other end, "that's effective top tube length. Reach is a horizontal line from the top of the head tube to a vertical line through the BB at 90 degrees." Dim sez "no, that's top tube length, the reach is 24.4". Thanks knuckledragger, I'll keep looking. Not sure what I expected, to be honest.

 

[GreatLakesWaterman]

I'll get the measurement tomorrow.

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[GreatLakesWaterman]

Do you need/want pics or is the measurement enough?
I'll be getting a tape measure out in a couple of hours.


I'm curious why you want the reach measurement.

 

[sandwich]

Just the measurement is fine.

Reach is more accuracte when comparing sizing than top tube length. Top tube length can also be adjusted by getting a setback post, or sliding the saddle rails back and forth. Reach can only be adjusted by the frame designer or with the length of the fork, which can be compensated for when comparing frames.

Reach is a critical measurement when comparing aggressive frames (like the mason, or honzo, or rune, or demo). It's very important when you're out of the saddle to tell how the bike will feel.

Also, reach and top tube length play hand in hand. A long eTT with a short reach makes for a bike that will feel crowded out of the saddle, and your bum may be way over the rear wheel, making for an awkward climber and pedaler in the saddle. A shorter TT with a longer reach puts your weight further forward.

My concern with the mason is that the slack seat angle and the long top tube could be masking a short reach measurement that would make the bike feel small. Some reviews (guitar ted) have suggested this might be the case due to rider positioning. Since I can't ride it first, I have to do the numbers dance before purchase and hope for the best.

Hope that's exceptionally long winded enough for you!

 

[GreatLakesWaterman]

Perfect. I wanted to pick your brain.

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[GreatLakesWaterman]

16.5 as best as I can measure.

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[sandwich]

Just to confirm, you have a size large and measured reach like this image?

 

[GreatLakesWaterman]

Yes

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[sandwich]

Moocho grassiness

 

[GreatLakesWaterman]

Checked with plumb Bob. Twice. My pleasure.

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[customfab]

Stack and reach is the most accurate way to size bikes, but I think you need to lighten up. Diamondback is a price point bike manufacture, while I'm sure a few people around there know what you're talking about they don't sell bike fit like some of the bigger companies do and the guy that answers the general call line isn't use to dealing with that. I'm sure he's much more adapt at answering the questions about why the crank fell off the bike Joe customer bought from Costco.

 

[sandwich]

Then they probably shouldn't sell high end bikes at all, if they can't support them, should they? It doesn't seem unreasonable to think that a company selling a 2700$ bike should know how to support it, or direct me to people who can.

 

[GreatLakesWaterman]

You got me, didn't you?

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[sandwich]

Haha, do you work for DBR, or just help out chumps on the forum? I really appreciated your help, btw.

 

[GreatLakesWaterman]

I am at a shop that deals DB. What is your nearest shop?

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