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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
WOW!
Let me say that again.
WOW!

It took me close to a year to build my Burner. Yesterday was my first ride. If I knew it was going to be such an awesome ride, I would have built the frame the night I got it.

I've been riding hardtails close to a decade. This is my first full suspension. THis thing rides like its on rails. Even though it is heavier than my Stumpjumper, my usual lap was much quicker than before, felt more fun, and easier. I just love the ways I can carve into turns with this frame.

Thanks to all who gave me pointers on the build.

Again,

WoW!
 

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Ottoreni said:
I've been riding hardtails close to a decade. This is my first full suspension. THis thing rides like its on rails. Even though it is heavier than my Stumpjumper, my usual lap was much quicker than before, felt more fun, and easier.
Just built mine a couple of weeks ago, and had a couple of trail rides on it. I too am coming off a Stumpjumper hardtail, and have been riding only hardtails and rigid for the last 18 years. Yesterday I cleaned a couple of sections that I normally wouldn't attempt. I'm amazed by how much more confident I am on this frame. I really love the way it digs in on technical climbs. The sizing of the XL fits me perfectly too.

Oh, and like Rob said - pictures please!

Here's mine again for the hell of it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here are a couple

I guess you can relate to what I am saying. I like my Stumpjumper, but this bike, this train, I love the way I carve the turns. The way it handles. WOW!
The usual trail I ride seemed much more fun, easier, and I was faster. Yes, I cleared a couple of sections that are usually hit or miss on my Stumpjumper. There is one part called the Grand Slam, four log piles in a row, starting with about a foot high and the fourth peaking just around 3 1/2 feet high. Really close together. On my Stumpjumper, most of the time I made up over the third one, a triple. Yesterday, I went over all them, and it seemed so much easier than my SJ. WOW!

Two things I noticed:
One the rear wheel seemed to spin in the air a couple of times when I was burning over some real rooty sections. I might increase the rebound on the shock. I currently have it set at SPV:65PSI and the main air chamber at 165PSI. Does this sound right for a 195lbs rider?

Second, there was a bit of grease on the out side of the top pivot, near the top of the seat tube. Is this normal for first time use?

As far as the build is concerned, all new parts, bought mostly on closeouts, just like the frame. :D The only part I am planning to change are the wheels. When I save some dough I want to change from the XT/317 to something a bit lighter. Are those FSA 300's you have on yours? How do you like them. I'm thinking about those, Cane Creek Zonos, or a LBS built set. 300-400 bucks is my range.

Again, thanks all for the information.
 

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I don't do PC
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Nice build! gotta love the Burner. I weigh about the same and I was running 170 in the main chamber and 115-120 in the SPV. I think I was at 6-7 clicks out from full slow on the rebound. Enjoy!!
 

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Natl. Champ DH Poser/Hack
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welcome to the big show! glad yer here and diggin yer bike. i too am a former stumpy owner who saw the light 10 years ago this month and discovered its ability to do things no other bike id owned or ridden could do. guess thats why i own 3 turners today. congrats!
 

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"El Whatever"
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Ottoreni said:
Are those FSA 300's you have on yours? How do you like them. I'm thinking about those, Cane Creek Zonos, or a LBS built set. 300-400 bucks is my range.

Again, thanks all for the information.
No. His are DT Swiss 4.1 Disc Rims with CK hubs... he's a bling ho' but he's too humble to admit it :D
 

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Warp2003 said:
No. His are DT Swiss 4.1 Disc Rims with CK hubs... he's a bling ho' but he's too humble to admit it :D
Sorry, I was eating dinner. Yes, what Warp said. DT SuperComp spokes and red nipples too. Great wheels, and though they're not cheap, I'm worth it.

Can't add to the shock comments as I'm running the Float R on mine. How do you like your Marathon S. Mine is much better since it's oil change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Fork and other thoughts

I like the Marathon S, the last Marz I had was a 2000 Atom 80. Still have it. I am not getting full travel though. Maybe close to 90mm. It feels a bit notchy. I think I'll ride it another month, break it in some, than change the oil.
Was it easy to change the oil? I've done it for my Atom 80, my Z2, and my Vanilla. How much harder/easier than any of those? I know someone has instructions on the 03 model.

Nice wheels, but they'll be out of my price range. In a few months I'll really start looking for a lighter set in the 300-400 range.

As far as Turner's are concerned, this has been the best bike I have ridden so far. My next bike will surely be a Turner. Heck, who know's in a few years I might have 3, too. The funny thing about this Burner is that it was last year's X-mas present My wife, who knows zilch about bikes got it for me, but she thought she was getting a complete bike. She was kinda disappointed that it was 'only a frame'. She thought all bikes came complete, but now she realizes it has been the best gift she has ever gotten me.
 

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Ottoreni said:
How much harder/easier than any of those? I know someone has instructions on the 03 model.
Warp2003 helped me change the oil. We used this excellent site on the 03 from BikerX40:

http://myweb.cableone.net/rkindig/marz_marathon_s.html

and this one which explains for a Z1 (similar setup to 04 Marathon):

http://www.daevh.co.uk/bike/service/z1.htm

If you're going to do it, PM me and I'll tell you what I know. Here's the tools you'd need if you don't have them:

21mm socket

12mm long socket or 12mm spanner (open ended wrench in US).

10mm spanner

Graduated cylinder

Syringe

7.5wt oil - Marzocchi oil, Golden Spectro oil or similar.

The thing to be really careful of is refitting the the top caps. They're very soft and it's easy to cross thread them.
 

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Natl. Champ DH Poser/Hack
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marzocchi is well known for overfilling their forks creating a shortness of travel amongst other problems. take tigers advice here. youll be pleased im sure.
 

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cactuscorn said:
marzocchi is well known for overfilling their forks creating a shortness of travel amongst other problems. take tigers advice here. youll be pleased im sure.
Plus, after it's bedded in (some say 50 hours), that stuff looks like texas tea.

Marzocchi recommends 140-145mm in both sides, but I've also seen on a thread somewhere that others recommend 115mm in the ETA side.

BikerX40 suggests measuring level rather than volume, but that's a bit trickier on the 04. Unless somebody knows an easy way to remove the spring on the ETA side to measure.

I'm getting 95mm travel now (so far), about 85mm before.
 

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Natl. Champ DH Poser/Hack
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hey tiger, im not positive on newer eta forks but the older ones were pretty easy and much like the newer non eta's. remove the eta knob/damping knobs first, then both top caps from the crown. theres a 10mm jam nut of sorts under the top caps. pull up on the offending cap extending the damper rod to expose this tool face and turn both in opposite directions to remove the cap, the nut, then the spring. let me know if this is the fix. im curious.
 

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"El Whatever"
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cactuscorn said:
hey tiger, im not positive on newer eta forks but the older ones were pretty easy and much like the newer non eta's. remove the eta knob/damping knobs first, then both top caps from the crown. theres a 10mm jam nut of sorts under the top caps. pull up on the offending cap extending the damper rod to expose this tool face and turn both in opposite directions to remove the cap, the nut, then the spring. let me know if this is the fix. im curious.
For some mysterious reason, it doesn't works like that on ETA side of a '04. We could get to remove the top cap, but the red 10mm nut blocks a plastic spacer that holds the spring in place. Maybe we were missing something tired as we were... but there was a trick there that's not written somehow.
 

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Warp2003 said:
For some mysterious reason, it doesn't works like that on ETA side of a '04. We could get to remove the top cap, but the red 10mm nut blocks a plastic spacer that holds the spring in place. Maybe we were missing something tired as we were... but there was a trick there that's not written somehow.
Damn, you're fast. Or I'm slow. You beat me to the punch. Glad you clarified it re: the spacer. Anyone else able to shed light on this one?
 

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cactuscorn said:
let me know if this is the fix. im curious.
That worked fine for the HSVC side, but the ETA side was different. I think. The 10mm didn't remove it. It was late, and a few Modelos had been consumed (always the best time to strip a fork down). Warp might remember it better. I'm not averse to trying the whole thing again soon, andd chronicling it for posterity.
 

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Natl. Champ DH Poser/Hack
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ya left the red bit on? doh! theres the issue guys. it threads off the rod, then the plastic doohicky comes off followed by the spring thingus. maybe i shoulda clarified this more before. sorry.
 

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cactuscorn said:
ya left the red bit on? doh! theres the issue guys. it threads off the rod, then the plastic doohicky comes off followed by the spring thingus. maybe i shoulda clarified this more before. sorry.
Cool Cactus, good news. Reverse thread, right? OK, I'm going to check that out in the new year when I get back from my travels. Better pick up some more oil north of the border.
 

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Natl. Champ DH Poser/Hack
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dont remember it bein reverse threaded. righty tighty my friend, but its concievable yers is diff than my '05 66 or '01 z 1. id say be very careful trying it the other direction for fear of killin the red nut and the rod. did the cap come off reversed? and dont be afeared to mix same element type oils for a custom viscosity. keep us posted.
 
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