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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just cannot wait!! After seeing the 2012 DW-link'ish frame design and the closeout price at Adrenaline Bikes, I just could not resist and ordered one. Just have to be patient for the next several weeks and eat ramen noodle 3 meals a day for the next 3 months or so.

Would like to hear AT6.7 owners' thoughts/suggestions about the bike. Currently planning to ditch the 3rd ring for a bashguard and ride it as it is until smt breaks.

I'll post the some pics and comments about the experience with Adrenaline as soon as I get my hands on my new ugly bike:D
 

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Bloodied but Unbowed
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Earlier this year I picked up a 2010 6.8 at silly low pricing. I own a 2009 Mount Vision 5.7 that I am also very happy with.

It sounds like we reached the same conclusion. I do not miss the big ring in the least. I swapped out the cassette to something a little nicer and went with 11-34 mated to 36/22 plus Race Face alloy bash guard up front. A little steep on the gearing but I use it enough to justify it. When in granny though, use of that lowest gear combination really does affect the suspension adversely so I try to pedal 2-4 gears up if at all possible. While not entirely necessary, also swapped in a 2 speed front der. It just works better with the bash ring. Also, a medium cage low profile rer der helps keep it off the rocks. The bike can use all 18 gears without issue.

A BS chain guide helps keep the chain in place most of the time. It works, but I suggest finding a different brand. Be prepared for a custom fitment. I do not know of a bolt on and ride soluton but there may be one out there.

Swapped in Hayes four piston calipers grinding away at 8" rotors. No brake fade even with lots of abuse.

The Team Revelation Dual Air 150mm fork was replaced by a Talas 36 at 160mm of travel. While the Revelation worked very well, the Fox 36 is noticably stiffer and gives a bit more travel. It seems to work better for the DH aspect of the bike.

Recently swapped out to a 50mm stem and to 30" bars repalcing the 28" bars that came stock. Huge positive difference. It wanders a bit more on some climbs but weight shift addressed that readily. When I remember to actually use the Talas reduced travel there is basically zero wander on those climbs.

The stem length is going to be more of a personal fitment thing, of course, but the wder bars offered a huge improvement in nearly every respect.

Add a dropping seat post when funds permit -- I went with the KS i950r and wouldn't trade it for anything else I have seen so far -- and you've got a great do-all bike.

I have run various tires on the bike, but recently have a WTB Dissent 2.5 out back and a WTB Prowler MX 2.5 up front. My favorite rear tire on this bike is the Maxxis High Roller Super Tacky 2.5, but they wear out too fast and are rather expensive to be replacing every couple of months. I imagine this will all depend on your terrain and riding style.

I suggest going over every fastener with a torque wrench before your first ride, then frequently after the first several. Mine needed some post delivery assembly attention even though a bike shop assembled it. Seems to me the rear axle carrier and der hanger can loosen frequently, as does the rear Maxle axle, and sometimes the suspenion pivots. You'd think the fasteners would stay put after being torqued to spec, and most of them do, but when they start to loosen frequently and require retorquing, best to replace them. I have replaced several fasteners as a result which helps keep them tight and carry spare rear hangers and hardware in my back pack. I strongly suggest that you buy a spare Maxle from eBay or somewhere cheap as they can fail. The newer ones are much better and since switching have had zero issues.

I know you weertongue in cheek on the looks of the bike, but I don't think the Quad Link is ugly at all, in fact quite the contrary. Aethestics comes down to a personal thing though.

Enjoy your bike. I doubt I will purchase a new Marin since they changed to the new suspension style. I like the Quad 2 a lot. It feels bottomless. It does everything I ask of it and then some.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
^^Wow, very useful info there, thanks for the thorough reply.

I will take off a couple of chain links with the 2x9 setup. I expect it to be enough to avoid chain slap combined with elevated stays.

I am skeptical about the performance of Nevegals though, everyone says they roll quite slow and having two of them in 2.35" may not help. On the other hand I expect them to have good grip, so might be a good trade off for slow techy singletrack and downhills.

The stock cockpit setup might suit me well, I am 5'9" and don't have wide shoulders and used to feel comfortable with a 685mm handlebar. A little wider bars and a short stem will be a good change.

I also used to be able to disassemble the whole rear triangle of Fuel EX with my mini-tool, but Marin seems to need some socket wrenches for the pivots. Might not be good for on-the-trail fixes, but we'll see...
 

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It will be rare to require a socket for trailside repairs on the AT in my experience.

I am not tall nor particularly wide, but the wide bars and shorter stem are up there with the best mods to the bike. It will depend a lot on rider preference, riding style and terrain I suppose. For what we ride in AZ, this setup is nearly ideal.

The Nevegals or okay for traction but do not have the strongest sidewalls. Again, how well they work is partly up to you and where you ride. I am running 2.50s front and rear, dual ply case and wire bead. They are not light tires. I don't worry about how they roll but they do okay. Again, rider prefrence. I have a Mount Vision with skinny XC tires for when I want to experience that. :) That's the cool thing about the AT though. You can build it light and fast for AM/XC use or go the other way and have a burly AM bike.

Enjoy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks DC, I've been riding this thing for about a week now and I really like it:D

Coming from a slightly oversprung Tora with a steel spring, the Revelation feels like butter (after the first couple hours of riding). I mean, really, what a difference!! Increasing the travel by 30mm is one thing, but the quality of that travel is leagues ahead of my previous fork, the front end is totally planted in corners. It needs quite a lot of preloading to hop though.

About the rear end: it is almost bob-free in seated pedalling and also quite plush. Looking at the plastic ring, it seems to ramp up quite a bit at the end of travel. Strangely, I did not feel any harshness. I have to admit that the linkage makes it a total PIA to adjust rear shock settings, but thankfully it is not a CCDB with tons of adjustment options, so I didn't even bother touching it after a while:D

One last nice thing about the frame is the uninterrupted seattube and low standover allowing you to slam the saddle all the way to the bottom when you just feel like fooling around.
 

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I bought a 2009 6.7 in 2010, also from Adrenaline. :)

Mods so far:
* upgraded the fork spring from medium to firm (I weigh 190#)
* ditched the big ring for a bash ring
* shorter stem and wider bars (Answer Pro Taper DH, Azonic somethingorother)
* adjustable seatpost (KS i900)
* grips (Ergon, but that's a totally personal thing)
* pedals (Forte platforms, lots of pins, I forgot the model name but they're just rebranded HTs)
* seat post clamp (the stock one wouldn't grip tight enough... weird)
* 203mm rotor up front (still have the stock 160mm in the back, and the balance feels perfect)

It hasn't needed any maintenance yet other than the usual brakes-and-shifters stuff. I haven't touched the suspension pivots except to make sure they were snug before the first ride and after a couple rides (and they were snug).

At some point I will upgrade the brakes. Mine came with Juicy 3s, and coming from V-brakes they seemed great. But then I got a second bike with a Hope V2 on the front, and the Juicy 3s don't compare. Hopes are expensive though, so it's going to be a while.

I totally agree about the seat tube and standover. I eventually put that KindShock post on it, so the full length isn't as critical now... but still, I can't imagine buying a bike that can't be quickly switched between full leg extension and completely-out-of-the-way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the suggestions everyone.

I am currently running the stock chainring bolts of Truvativ Blaze with the bash instead of longer ones. (The longer bolts which came with the bashguard did not fit.) It seems to stay tight, but should I be keeping an eye for it?

About 203mm Avid rotors, do you guys experience lots of rub or need to realign the calipers often? Coming from a QR fork, I really like the stiffness and consistency of 20mm TA with 185mm rotors, I didn't need to touch the calipers for 2 weeks, which was never the case with a QR.

To spice up the thread a little bit:
 

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Yeah --- that's a sweet frame design.

l've been rocking the Quake series ever since they came out in 2006.

had a couple AT's too.

(spam) we're selling them off all on close-out since they discontinued the frame design -- :eek:

Starting 2012, only the Team DH will use that frame design.

l was totally bummed to hear they weren't going to continue using the design, l guess it's a $$$ thing. Maybe they didn't sell as well as they would like. l think it's a great design but l don't know a thing about Marin's bottom line on that model. l sold mostly just the Quake series.

don't worry, if you have one... you'll still be able to warranty the frame in the unlikely chance your frame fails. par for course, if you need to warranty a frame and they don't have any left, they'll get you on something new. that's normal bike company protocol
 

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Thanks for the suggestions everyone.

I am currently running the stock chainring bolts of Truvativ Blaze with the bash instead of longer ones. (The longer bolts which came with the bashguard did not fit.) It seems to stay tight, but should I be keeping an eye for it?

About 203mm Avid rotors, do you guys experience lots of rub or need to realign the calipers often? Coming from a QR fork, I really like the stiffness and consistency of 20mm TA with 185mm rotors, I didn't need to touch the calipers for 2 weeks, which was never the case with a QR.

To spice up the thread a little bit:
yikes --- 203 rotors on that? that's overkill if you ask me.

l'm sportin' 203 front / 185 rear on a Quake and that's plenty of braking power (Elixer CR's).

no -- zero rubbing with mine but l'm rolling a Totem

that fork might not likey that much rotor... ask me, that's a bit much
 

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Anyone having issues with the brake side dropouts creaking? Tremendous forces on those two small bolts, as someone mentioned before they can ovalize. I have noticable play/creaking when I hold the rear break and rock it back and forth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Anyone having issues with the brake side dropouts creaking? Tremendous forces on those two small bolts, as someone mentioned before they can ovalize. I have noticable play/creaking when I hold the rear break and rock it back and forth.
Sounds strange to me, are you sure the play and creak is at the dropout/frame interface and not brake pad/disc interface? I don't see how Marin's version is any different from any other replaceable dropout system to cause such a problem.
 

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good i didnt really want to see the attack trail change. They do however need to get rid of the stupid as **** replaceable rear drop outs that seems to be fashionable nowadays. Breaking force torquing one direction and pedaling the other (on break mount side). Before long they ovalise the chain ring bolt holes on the swing arm. I keep snapping maxles just because of the flex. No matter how diligently you try to keep them tight it will happen.
Here is another guy with the same problem. I guess all the models with replaceable dropout would be subject to the same problem. I checked everything- brakes, spokes, hub-, you can see the left side dropout moving when holding the brakes and rocking the bike, the wheel moves noticeably. The bolts are in tight at spec torque. The frame is eating itself up with that play.
 

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Anyone having issues with the brake side dropouts creaking? Tremendous forces on those two small bolts, as someone mentioned before they can ovalize. I have noticable play/creaking when I hold the rear break and rock it back and forth.
Yes, just be sure everything is clean, tiny bit of lube on the fastener threads, then use a real torquw wrench and check them frequently.

The problem is exacerbated with large brakes but managable. The chainring bolts used in those dropouts will eventually fail after some number of torque cycles, just like any fastener..

As to 8" rotors being overkill. Not hardly. At least not for AZ riding. Four piston calipers and zero fade even during 1.5 mile technical and fast descents. I guess it depends on terrain and riding style but bigger brakes rule here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I would like to present you a sloppily edited video of the same trails with some slow chilled out riding this time, but I am sure there is someone out there with nothing more interesting to do:)


I don't know if it was because I was too tired and not actually "working the bike" that day or because the "new bike" effect wore out, but the rear end seemed to be a little harsh. I was running around 25-26% sag in the rear, so now I bumped it up to 30%. Although I haven't noticed any negative effects, I am guessing the Quad-link pedaling characteristics are sensitive to sag, so I wonder how much sag do you guys run.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Lolz, is that Barton Creek Greenbelt?

I just rode my newly built Wolfridge on the Hill of Life and Jedi trails yesterday. I'm also still playing with the sag on the fork and shock.
Yes it is, but it is just the main trail. I've heard about the Hill of Life and Jedi trails, but lack of riding and navigation skills kind of limited me:D

Congrats on the new build, did you go local or order online? I only know of Ozone dealing Marins and have no experience with them.

I am waiting for the weekend to tweak the shock settings a little bit. If I can't get the rear to be as plush as the front, I might try running less sag in front to have a more balanced feel with a little more "poppy"ness.
 

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I am waiting for the weekend to tweak the shock settings a little bit. If I can't get the rear to be as plush as the front, I might try running less sag in front to have a more balanced feel with a little more "poppy"ness.
Don't have a AT but WR and MV can still be run down to 30% sag. Much more the norm for a bike like the AT.
I have my suspicions the AT may be a bit choppy over rough terrain mid stroke with the Monarch? You may have to try and get a bigger Air can for it or swap out to a Fox shock with XV or XV2 air sleeve. Later AT's do. I don't know why Marin specd the Monarch on earlier AT's. I would have thought it's the match mad in hell . Yet they specd the RP23 on the MV, which suits the monarch. Go figure?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Don't have a AT but WR and MV can still be run down to 30% sag. Much more the norm for a bike like the AT.
I have my suspicions the AT may be a bit choppy over rough terrain mid stroke with the Monarch? You may have to try and get a bigger Air can for it or swap out to a Fox shock with XV or XV2 air sleeve. Later AT's do. I don't know why Marin specd the Monarch on earlier AT's. I would have thought it's the match mad in hell . Yet they specd the RP23 on the MV, which suits the monarch. Go figure?
I guess I will learn not to question Marin's wisdom in parts selection:) and try my chance with some of the options mentioned in the high volume air shock thread if I have any problems with Monarch.

What is the main difference between Monarch and RP23 (with similar factory tunes) anyway? I had an RP2 on my Fuel EX, but it also had a completely different suspension platform, so can't make a direct comparison.
 
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