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Finally bought my fork today!

1912 Views 20 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  2007Quantum2
So I decided on the Rockshox Recon 351 Coul U-Turn :D . It has good reviews, it looks beast:cool: , is adjustable, and was on sale. It should be at my doorstep on Thursday or Friday, so needless to say I will set up temporary living quarters on the front porch waiting for it. :p
So I still have a few questions.:confused:
1.) After I take my handlebar/stem off, and I remove the spacers, Will my old fork just slide out of the headtube?
I am really perplexed by headsets:
2.) Is the whole headset above the head tube, in one piece
3.) What do I need to take off of the old fork? I know I have to remove the crown race and install it on the new fork and I will use a PVC pipe to do that.
4.) The top cap assembly....WTF?

I will go out in to the garage right now and try to answer some of my questions, but can someone please attach a few links that will walk me through the arduous task at hand?

:eek:ut: Andy
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1. It might, or you might need to hit the top of the steer tube with a rubber mallet to get it to move

2. No, see diagram below

3. Allen wrench(s), mallet, hack saw or pipe cutter, file, flat blade screw driver, new star nut

4. See diagram below

You have a Zero Stack headset, but it is essentually the same as a standard threadless headset except the cups are recessed into the headtube. Here is a good step by step

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:thumbsup: Thanks. I have looked at that step-by-step before, and I plan on using it as a bible when Im installing the fork. So the fork I bought is an OE item from Jenson, and Im not sure if it comes with a star nut. I just inquired about that and hope to get a response within 24 hours. I will just go to my LBS tomorrow and buy a new one just in case Jenson doesnt include one in the package, as I can not wait to install it and get back to riding again:D
I've done this a few times, very simple and requires no tools beyond hex wrench, screwdriver and mallet if you're lucky.

1. Loosen stem from steerer, remove top cap
2. Put foot on wheel, hold brake and yank up on headtube - you can also hold up headtube and knock on the top of the steerer with your mallet
3. Remove wheel, brakes, crown race
4. Put crown race on new fork, put onto bike
5. Sit stem and spacers back on tighten bolt on top cap to seat crown race or bounce on bike to seat crown race.
6. Align stem and tighten bolts
7. Loosen top cap bolt retighten less tightly
Thanks to you as well.
I saw that fork on Jenson as well. Nice pick up. :thumbsup:
A couple additional items:

- Read up on adjusting the headset preload with the top cap. It's not just something you crank down on.

- It's easy to scratch up the fork and bend the crown race removing it from your old for. The method I found which works best without dedicated tools is to use a couple single sided razor blades. First, gently hammer a razor blade, edge first, in between the crown race and the crown. Once it's in, gently hammer in the second one right on top of it. Remove both and do it again on the opposite side of the crown. Once you're done, you should be able to gently get under the race with a slotted screwdriver to gently and evenly pry it up and off the fork.
GiddyHitch said:
I saw that fork on Jenson as well. Nice pick up. :thumbsup:
Haha. Thanks. There are still some better deals on there, but I just wanted a simple fork. I've been looking at this fork online everyday since September when I got this bike, and I finally decided to dive in and go for it:D
So I finally got the fork. It arrivred at my house earlier today, and in a matter of minutes I had it on. I had to make a stop at the LBS so they could get the crown race off. It was a pain in the ass, because the Sports Authority goons must have pounded it on with a metal pipe and a sledgehammer. I also borrowed a slide hammer, which worked GREAT. It only took 1 minute to get it on. So, slide hammers are a GREAT alternative to a PVC pipe. And thanks to J&S Cyclery in Eau Gallie, Florida for the service.
it takes 5 seconds with a pvc tube. the pvc tube is recommended because its soft, not a 5lbs slide hammer! gonna mess your bike up doing stuff like that.

your body weight smashes the crown race on the whole time you're riding.. its always gonna be on tight.
So its officially eff'd up. I cant figure this fork out. My friend had it upside down earlier, and the seal moved up the stanchion, needless to say oil went EVERYWHERE. Well...its messed u other than that. I was out riding it the day I put it on, and it was excellent. I love it...when it works. Then I thought it was stuck on lockout but it was something with the travel knob, as opposed to compression. If I have it out at 130mm, I get about an inch of travel, but it bottoms out. And im not an adult, so I weigh 90 pounds. Then I have the compression loose, but its still locked up at 85-115mm. This fork is MESSSED UP. Now im stuck...I have it boxed up, but I dont know what to do. I dont know whether to send it back to Jenson in hopes that they will replace it, or if I should send it to SRAM/RockShox. So, what do you think I need to do?
oil leaked past the rebound damper oring into the lower leg. pull the lowers and replace the oring and refill with oil.

you can send it back to sram, but for whatever reason they're not very good at repairing this issue.
But the oil/seal issue happened most recently. All these other problems were encountered with less than 10 minutes of riding on the bike.
Sorry dude, but welcome to the infamous Rock Shox o-ring problem. It's beyond me why they haven't fixed it. It's one of the reasons I run Fox forks.

Fortunately, it's an easy fix. Like One Pivot said, pull the lowers, replace the o-ring, and refill the oil the damper and you'll be good to go.
ive had a couple that just had debris in the o-ring groove. its a really stupid, simple problem. im surprised they cant get it right too.. but the total simplicity and low cost of repair still makes rs an extremely viable option.

rs actually sent a ton of orings to a lot of lbs's so they can just fix it on the spot. talk to your lbs, they'll either know exactly whats up and will have it back to you fast, or they'll be clueless and you might as well fix it yourself and buy the oring.
Are you guys sure that the o-ring issue is causing all these problems? I mean its VERY hard to explain if you arent on the bike riding it. Like earlier today before I put my crappy Dart1 back on it, I walked into the garage and the fork was totally locked out. It was set to 130mm and I would pop it up, and *bang!*. Other times I pop it up and its a firm stop, but no metal on metal *bang*. I mean im new to forks and all, but it strikes me as such odd issues.
Thats incredible that the fork can be basically paralyzed because of one simple thing. Well I just called SRAM about it and they said I need to go to the local bike shop and get the warranty figured out. And the bike shop will have to contact them further. So I guess the they will get this whole issue resolved, and I'll stay out of it for as long as I can. I'm not expecting it to be perfect, but as long as it functions as every good fork should, I'll be satisfied.
I'd say don't bother taking it to the bike shop and just do it yourself. It'll be faster and you'll know it was done right. Just order the correct o-ring from McMaster Carr.
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