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'21 LSP Received!

Finally received my LSP last week. Got it on its first trail this weekend. Freaking amazing improvement in just about everything over my Marin Hawk Hill 2! Climbs really well and descends like an absolute beast! This is a '21 fitted with Fox Factory 38 (160mm), MRP coil, SRAM X01 10-52T with absolute black 32T oval chainring. Raw carbon is beautiful!
 

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What a great build! Enjoy!

I keep on debating in my head about going coil in the back. The adjustability of the air spring is pretty nice tho.
 

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Geometry adjust question

Looking for some input from the armchair engineers (or real engineers!) here. Is there a difference between using an angleset to adjust the head angle and using the flip chip? Specifically, could I get certain benefits by having the flip chip in low and then using an angleset to *steepen* the head angle rather than setting the flip chip to the high setting?

I'm enjoying the bike in the low setting with a 29/27.5+ mullet setup, but I figure this puts the head angle at ~64.5 degrees. I'm curious how a steeper head angle would feel on my tight and twisty local trails, but I don't want to reduce my top tube length. Consider this a thought experiment, so let's please focus on the change to the geometry numbers rather than the wisdom of going this route.
 

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I built my LSP as 29er when I first got it but was curious what it would be like as a 27.5 so I stripped it down and rebuilt it. I havent gotten any time on the 27.5 other than driveway riding. The Lyrik on the 27.5 is 170mm but the bike feels pretty comfortable that way. Im waiting for a different stem and bar to show up to finish the build


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

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Cane Creek Double Barrel InLine (DB Inline) Coil Shock

Since having the same shock on a previous bike I have been wanting to stick it on here (also to get the piggy back on the Fox X2 gone), but I was worried about clearance and the shock fitting.

Nowhere online could I find anyone with the shock fitted, nor did I find anyone saying explicitly that it didn't fit.

I found the technical diagram for it on CC's website, printed it to size and cut the outline from cardboard (I know, lol). And of course, it was too close to tell if it would fit or not as my 'sample' shape was not super accurate.

Anyway, ended up buying one after checking with the online retailer that I could return it if need be.

Long story short, it doesn't fit. The adjustment side of the shock MUST be on the top tube shock mount, it nowhere near fits the linkage side mount. The problem is that the slotted collar that retains the spring touches the linkage when the shock is at full extension, only just. With even the slightest weight on the bike, like 2-3% sag, the collar moves away from the linkage and all is good, but this means that anytime the bike gets unweighted, that collar is gonna slam into the linkage.

Oh, this is in the steep flip chip position, no hope in hell with them in slack.

It could probably work if I filed two 1-2mm deep grooves/slots into the collar where it meets the linkage, but unless I can get my hands on a spare collar, I'm not going to risk the AUD700 if it doesn't work, and I also have no idea how the collar will react structurally to those slots.

But yeah, figured I'd post this here for anyone else considering this shock/bike combo as I couldn't find info anywhere.

Should I get my hands on a spare collar and try the slots, I'll update this post.

Or if Fezzari could slightly change the linkage, 1-2mm less meat on the front facing sides and it would be perfect, but dunno what that would do to the strength of the linkage in turn.

Anyhow, thats my story, happy trails:cool:

 

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Looking for some input from the armchair engineers (or real engineers!) here. Is there a difference between using an angleset to adjust the head angle and using the flip chip? Specifically, could I get certain benefits by having the flip chip in low and then using an angleset to *steepen* the head angle rather than setting the flip chip to the high setting?

I'm enjoying the bike in the low setting with a 29/27.5+ mullet setup, but I figure this puts the head angle at ~64.5 degrees. I'm curious how a steeper head angle would feel on my tight and twisty local trails, but I don't want to reduce my top tube length. Consider this a thought experiment, so let's please focus on the change to the geometry numbers rather than the wisdom of going this route.
Update on my own post. Turns out I was WAY off on calculating the impact of a 27.5+ rear wheel mullet set-up. My head angle was actually closer to 63 degrees, which explains the lazy steering I was trying to address with the angleset. More concerning, it turns out mulleting the bike chopped off about 20mm of reach. I actually just earlier this week bought a longer stem to fix what felt to me like an overly cramped bike.

I'll be swapping in a spare 29er rear wheel this weekend and seeing how the bike feels ridden the way Fezzari designed it. If good, I'll be un-mulleting my short travel bike, as well.
 

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Update on my own post. Turns out I was WAY off on calculating the impact of a 27.5+ rear wheel mullet set-up. My head angle was actually closer to 63 degrees, which explains the lazy steering I was trying to address with the angleset. More concerning, it turns out mulleting the bike chopped off about 20mm of reach. I actually just earlier this week bought a longer stem to fix what felt to me like an overly cramped bike.

I'll be swapping in a spare 29er rear wheel this weekend and seeing how the bike feels ridden the way Fezzari designed it. If good, I'll be un-mulleting my short travel bike, as well.
Was this with the flip chip in the high or low position? If it was low, did you measure the head angle with the mullet setup in high?
 

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Update on my own post. Turns out I was WAY off on calculating the impact of a 27.5+ rear wheel mullet set-up. My head angle was actually closer to 63 degrees, which explains the lazy steering I was trying to address with the angleset. More concerning, it turns out mulleting the bike chopped off about 20mm of reach. I actually just earlier this week bought a longer stem to fix what felt to me like an overly cramped bike.

I'll be swapping in a spare 29er rear wheel this weekend and seeing how the bike feels ridden the way Fezzari designed it. If good, I'll be un-mulleting my short travel bike, as well.
Was in Moab over the weekend. First ride, usual setup of mullet 27.5+ rear, super fun, but quite a few pedal strikes. Flipped the chip to the high position, and hated every single minute of the next ride. Only slightly fewer pedal strikes. That being said, pedal strikes were common for everyone, even those with much higher bb's. I hate this bike in the high setting. Quote from a friend, "Pedal strikes means the trail's not boring". Gonna try the biggest 29 in back I can fit. 2.6 on a 30mm id rim? How big can you go before there's clearance issues? Data point...for the most part, 27.5+ @ 3.0 on an i30mm rim works with minimal chain/tire rub (only happens when way off camber).
 

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Was this with the flip chip in the high or low position? If it was low, did you measure the head angle with the mullet setup in high?
It was in the low position. I didn't think to measure it in the high position before I swapped out the wheels. I got the numbers about the impact of mulleting a bike from another thread on here titled "Going mullet - geometry and travel change question." A comparison picture from MTBR user scottzg can be found at the below link. My own measurements lined up with what you see in this picture - namely, that you'll lose about 20mm in reach and reduce your head angle by roughly two degrees.

https://forums.mtbr.com/attachments...y-travel-change-question-overforked-scout.jpg
 

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Was in Moab over the weekend. First ride, usual setup of mullet 27.5+ rear, super fun, but quite a few pedal strikes. Flipped the chip to the high position, and hated every single minute of the next ride. Only slightly fewer pedal strikes. That being said, pedal strikes were common for everyone, even those with much higher bb's. I hate this bike in the high setting. Quote from a friend, "Pedal strikes means the trail's not boring". Gonna try the biggest 29 in back I can fit. 2.6 on a 30mm id rim? How big can you go before there's clearance issues? Data point...for the most part, 27.5+ @ 3.0 on an i30mm rim works with minimal chain/tire rub (only happens when way off camber).
I'm right there with you. I've no idea what it is, but I can't stand this bike in the high position. You'd think changing to the high position would have corrected some of the impact of me mulleting my bike, but it just seemed to make everything worse.

You'll have no issues with a 2.6 on an i30 rim. When I initially un-mulleted my bike I had to choose between two extremes for spare rear wheels sitting in my basement. One is an i24 and the other is an i50. I went big, and popped a Teravail Kennebec 29x2.6 on the i50 rim. It fit, but just barely. There was minor rub where the wheel was slightly out of true. Keep in mind that the Kennebec is a large 2.6 and an i50 rim is ridiculous. I installed a 29x2.6 Nobby Nic on an i29 rim last night and there was loads of clearance.

And for those wondering about 27.5+ clearance, I was previously running a 27.5x2.8 Minion DHRii on an i40 rim in the rear with more room than I knew what to do with. I think any 27.5x2.8 will work with pretty much any sized rim in the back.
 

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Spent the week riding Hurricane and Moab, this bike seems made for these places. Trails have been very uncrowded weekdays. Always 29er and low position and never seem to have any pedal strikes. Sand, ledges, easy trail and big chunk handled with ease.
2.6 DHF and Aggressor 2.5 working well here although not my favorite for bike parks.
Still an amazing bike.
 

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Cane Creek Double Barrel InLine (DB Inline) Coil Shock UPDATE

So, an update to this.

I managed to get the shock fitted.

It required filing two small groves into the spring retaining clip, and then also grinding a bevel into the spring itself. Pics attached for reference.

HOWEVER, anyone else wanting to do this, it will only work in the steep setting. In the slack setting, the holes through the chips are too far back in the linkage for this to work.

Anywho, hopes this might help anyone else out who was wanting to try fit this shock and couldn't find any info.

P.s. I came across a shock for sale in the classifieds on Pinkbike, and noticed from the pics that the spring side eyelet was far longer than current ones and that particular shock would fit without modification. However, after chatting with Cane Creek, it is an older version that they no longer make as the shaft was prone to snapping on bikes with high leverage ratios.



Since having the same shock on a previous bike I have been wanting to stick it on here (also to get the piggy back on the Fox X2 gone), but I was worried about clearance and the shock fitting.

Nowhere online could I find anyone with the shock fitted, nor did I find anyone saying explicitly that it didn't fit.

I found the technical diagram for it on CC's website, printed it to size and cut the outline from cardboard (I know, lol). And of course, it was too close to tell if it would fit or not as my 'sample' shape was not super accurate.

Anyway, ended up buying one after checking with the online retailer that I could return it if need be.

Long story short, it doesn't fit. The adjustment side of the shock MUST be on the top tube shock mount, it nowhere near fits the linkage side mount. The problem is that the slotted collar that retains the spring touches the linkage when the shock is at full extension, only just. With even the slightest weight on the bike, like 2-3% sag, the collar moves away from the linkage and all is good, but this means that anytime the bike gets unweighted, that collar is gonna slam into the linkage.

Oh, this is in the steep flip chip position, no hope in hell with them in slack.

It could probably work if I filed two 1-2mm deep grooves/slots into the collar where it meets the linkage, but unless I can get my hands on a spare collar, I'm not going to risk the AUD700 if it doesn't work, and I also have no idea how the collar will react structurally to those slots.

But yeah, figured I'd post this here for anyone else considering this shock/bike combo as I couldn't find info anywhere.

Should I get my hands on a spare collar and try the slots, I'll update this post.

Or if Fezzari could slightly change the linkage, 1-2mm less meat on the front facing sides and it would be perfect, but dunno what that would do to the strength of the linkage in turn.

Anyhow, thats my story, happy trails:cool:

 

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Out of curiosity , what kind of sag are people having the best luck with ? I'm using an X2 and it's just feels skittish. I'm at about 30% and it feels like the rear end is more skimming then gripping. Using about 85% travel no tokens on an average ride and bang pedals worse then most other bikes I ride.
 

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So, I've been on my LSP for just under a year and a half. Originally, this bike was 27.5+, run with the chip in "high mode". Last year, I switched over to mullet setup, running 29 in the front, still in "high" mode. The really only consistent problem I've felt with this bike setup was in full on, level ground, XC mode. As long as things were going up, or down, the bike was fine, sometimes stellar. But on level-ish terrain, I always felt like I was on top of the bike, almost over the front sometimes. Pedal strikes have been a bit of an issue, but I mostly counter that by running high shock pressure with added rebound.

Today, and I can't believe it took me a year and a half to try, I switched the flip chip to the low position. All of my reservations about the XC level ground qualities evaporated, pretty much instantly. Climbing was as, or more, efficient, and descending was like I had set the bike to "auto carve" mode. This bike just handles soooo much better in the low position. Pedal strikes be damned, I'm not going back. But....I may run 29 in the rear to switch things up a little.

Ever since I ordered my wife her Delano Peak last month, I've been feeling a little jealous and wishing the LSP was a better all around bike. I was even considering a dropper with a setback clamp, something to ease up on the intensity of the cockpit geometry. That's not an issue anymore. Today I felt like I was part of the bike, not on or in it, just with it - if that makes any sense.

Another note, this thing manuals easier (well, I suck at manuals, but a little less now), and jumps are way, way more composed.

Anyway, that's what I learned about my LSP today.

You still running the mullet in the low mode? I want to run this bike as a mullet, with 27.5(not +). Most riding is up or down and not flat so should work good i think.
 

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I've got two rides in now with my LSP in full 29er mode, low setting. I'm not sure I like it as much as the mullet + setup (in low). That being said, upon working on shock tunes several weeks ago, I discovered that there were NO volume reducers in my super deluxe, as such I've been running overly high shock pressure to compensate for pedal bob/strikes. Once I get a chance to play with the shock full of reducers, I should be able to lower shock pressure and get a little further into the bikes travel and I have a feeling that it will get me closer to where I want to be, back toward the mullet STA angles. I really am a total muppet for not having figured out the shock issues earlier.

But, after years of fatbiking and running plus, I don't think I'll ever get back to liking a 2.5 in the rear. It also made the rear end feel flexier than the 27.5 wheel.
 

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Preference definitely is a factor, mine had volume spacers and felt way better to me without them and some more pressure. I'd think no spacers as they add progressivity to the bike and it's already 52% progressive.
 

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I've got two rides in now with my LSP in full 29er mode, low setting. I'm not sure I like it as much as the mullet + setup (in low). That being said, upon working on shock tunes several weeks ago, I discovered that there were NO volume reducers in my super deluxe, as such I've been running overly high shock pressure to compensate for pedal bob/strikes. Once I get a chance to play with the shock full of reducers, I should be able to lower shock pressure and get a little further into the bikes travel and I have a feeling that it will get me closer to where I want to be, back toward the mullet STA angles. I really am a total muppet for not having figured out the shock issues earlier.

But, after years of fatbiking and running plus, I don't think I'll ever get back to liking a 2.5 in the rear. It also made the rear end feel flexier than the 27.5 wheel.
good to hear!
I am coming from only ridden 27.5 bikes and a full 29er seems a little too clunky for me, but mullet seems nice. I sent email to fezzari asking if when I order my bike I can get mullet wheels, still awaiting their reply.
 

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Played around with longer stems and seat position on my Large La Sal, and decided to just sell this frame/fork and get an XL. So if anyone is in the market for a Large La Sal hit me up. 2019 Concrete color way.
you sell already?
 
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