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aka bOb
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know it's been answered but still confused, is there a way to make a Surly new 135mm front hub work with a steel Fatback fork? I think I might have to turn the axles down but what about disk spacing?

Thanks....Bob
 

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The Surly axle diameter and rotor spacing are wrong for the Fatback fork. You would have to turn the axle ends down by 1 mm (from 10 to 9) and do about 5 mm worth of spacing to make the rotor line up with the caliper (either space the rotor out from the hub, or space the caliper in towards the hub).
 

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So this led me to want to go out and take some measurements of some parts that just so happen to be sitting around. Surly new front 135mm hub fits fine and only takes about 4 mm of caliper spacing to make brake offset work.You draw your own conclusion......

135mm Surly front hub axle diameter (just a hair under 10mm)


Fatback steel fork dropouts(just a hair over 10mm)


Spacers to center caliper over disc (4mm but 5mm would work too)
 

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I had no problem putting a 135/10mm singlespeed rear hub in my Fatback fork. I used a couple of presta nuts, the ones with a little shoulder were perfect.

I started out a couple of years ago running an Endo on an Araya dh rim on my Bontrager Switchblade equipped 26 hardtail, last year I upgraded to a Enabller fork and a Fat Sheba rim and this year I stepped up to a Fatback. As much as I would have liked to buy the Hadley hubs I chose to use my old wheel for now. I probably could have used the Enabler fork but I wanted the Fatback as a package.



Presta.......



Works great.

Cheers,
Steven
 

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This is what I get for going by manufacturer's specs only... obviously they are not exact. Thanks guys for posting up some more accurate information.
 

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Andy FitzGibbon said:
This is what I get for going by manufacturer's specs only... obviously they are not exact. Thanks guys for posting up some more accurate information.
Well now I am questioning whether or not there is supposed to be some "clearance" in the dropout around the axle.

For instance does a dropout for a 9mm axle actually measure close to 10mm to provide 0.5mm "clearance" or does a dropout for a 10mm axle actually measure 10mm?

Unfortunately right now every fork I have around here has some special front axle; 15mm QR, 24mm Maverick, etc etc.

Oh never mind I guess I can measure the road bike huh....be right back....
 

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aka bOb
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
RENCRN8 said:
Well now I am questioning whether or not there is supposed to be some "clearance" in the dropout around the axle.

For instance does a dropout for a 9mm axle actually measure close to 10mm to provide 0.5mm "clearance" or does a dropout for a 10mm axle actually measure 10mm?

Unfortunately right now every form I have around here has some special front axle; 15mm QR, 24mm Maverick, etc etc.

Oh never mind I guess I cna measure the road bike huh....be right back....
You are awesome thanks for all this!!! This is what I love about the fat forum!!!
 

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RENCRN8 said:
Well now I am questioning whether or not there is supposed to be some "clearance" in the dropout around the axle.

For instance does a dropout for a 9mm axle actually measure close to 10mm to provide 0.5mm "clearance" or does a dropout for a 10mm axle actually measure 10mm?

Unfortunately right now every form I have around here has some special front axle; 15mm QR, 24mm Maverick, etc etc.

Oh never mind I guess I cna measure the road bike huh....be right back....
Well I guess that answers that.

9mm front hub axle


dropout for 9mm axle


So I guess we can draw the conclusion that a 9mm axle and 9mm dropout actually measure 9mm, so therefore a 10mm axle and 10mm dropout should actually measure 10mm.

Could this be a case of "someone" trying to convince the market that the only hubs that will work with their fork is the hubs you have to buy from them? Doesn't surprise me....:rolleyes:
 

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Now can someone measure the actual axle diameter of their Hadley or Import Speedway hubs for comparisons sake?

I am now extremely curious.....
 

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aka bOb
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
RENCRN8 said:
Now can someone measure the actual axle diameter of their Hadley or Import Speedway hubs for comparisons sake?

I am now extremely curious.....
And maybe the Paul Whub as well?
 

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The Paul WHUB hub axle ends measure 8.80 mm. The Salsa Enabler fork (which is supposed to have 10 mm dropouts) measures slightly under at 9.84 mm.
Ideally it is better to have the fit as close as possible, of course, particularly with disc brake hubs. The Paul hub has enough play in the Enabler dropouts that I wouldn't want to run it without adding some 0.5 mm wall tubing bushings to the axle ends. I don't think it would be dangerous, but you would probably have to keep the QR tighter than is usually necessary (or good for the QR).
 

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RENCRN8 said:
Well I guess that answers that.

9mm front hub axle


dropout for 9mm axle


So I guess we can draw the conclusion that a 9mm axle and 9mm dropout actually measure 9mm, so therefore a 10mm axle and 10mm dropout should actually measure 10mm.

Could this be a case of "someone" trying to convince the market that the only hubs that will work with their fork is the hubs you have to buy from them? Doesn't surprise me....:rolleyes:
Our forks and hubs are made to work with front rotor spacing. That's it, it's very simple. If you want to run spacers to make it work with a rear ss135, so be it. Paul Whubs work with our fork, as well as Phil. Surly has also come out with their own version of a front 135. It's not a conspiracy to sell components, only an attempt to avoid confusion.
 

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thirstywork said:
Surly has also come out with their own version of a front 135.
Surly's "front" hub is (in essence) just one of their rear hubs that isn't threaded for a freewheel. It still has a 10 mm axle and rear disc rotor spacing.
I can understand the reasoning behind Surly/Salsa's use of rear hubs on the front (ease of availability, cost, interchangability, ect), but for myself I wish they had just stuck with front hub dimensions and not confused the issue.
 

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thirstywork said:
Our forks and hubs are made to work with front rotor spacing. That's it, it's very simple. If you want to run spacers to make it work with a rear ss135, so be it. Paul Whubs work with our fork, as well as Phil. Surly has also come out with their own version of a front 135. It's not a conspiracy to sell components, only an attempt to avoid confusion.
10/4 thanks for the clarification.

Guess I am still a little salty about a phone call I received from one of your employees(or maybe it was you I don't know your name) regarding hubs.

This explanation above makes sense and sits well with me, the call I got not so much....

:thumbsup:
 

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Andy FitzGibbon said:
The Paul hub has enough play in the Enabler dropouts that I wouldn't want to run it without adding some 0.5 mm wall tubing bushings to the axle ends. I don't think it would be dangerous, but you would probably have to keep the QR tighter than is usually necessary (or good for the QR).
Think about what rear QRs had to withstand in the old days of horizontal dropouts. All of the force sprinters put to their rear wheel was resisted by the QR so hopefully todays QR's are up to the task.
I do struggle with getting the brake rotor and pads to line up consistantly given the slop in some fork dropout axle interfaces I have been using.
 

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RENCRN8 said:
Now can someone measure the actual axle diameter of their... Import Speedway hubs for comparisons sake?
Import Speedways measure 8.80 - 8.89 mm for the front hub axle ends (both sides were not identical). They are 'bolt on' and I have never noticed any issues with movement under braking, but adding an axle end sleeve would not be a bad idea since the inexpensive steel fork dropouts are big.
 

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bdundee said:
Question do I spend $60 on a Surly or $145 on a Paul?
Well, the Paul's are art. Straight up beautiful. And light!
The Surly's are completely functional, and hey, the weight is right in the center. You're probably not going to notice the difference.
I'm actually leaning more towards a Surly rear, just because if nothing else, it can always be repurposed as a rear. But it does look nice without the threads...

Los
 
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