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First off I have to say I tried a 29er hardtail 7-8 years ago and HATED the wagon wheels (I'm 41) and stuck with my 26". single speed for a few more years until I had about 6 years of a break from mountain biking and was a roadie/triathlete. Now I'm back on a mountain bike after building up an INTENSE 275C that I really did no expense spared with XX1, ENVE M60's, carbon everything, DVO front and back, awesome bike. Ran it on 2.6" nobby nics and was having a blast. Well I picked up a Following MB, Fox 34 GX build in drunken olive with some heavy ass e*thirteen wheels and I WAS BLOWN AWAY.

I literally smiled the whole ride and this was on a trail I do 3-5 times a week and is my "old standby" ride that doesn't really make me smile anymore as it's nothing new. I was literally laughing out loud as I popped off of every little bump in the trail and I swear this bike is more maneuverable then the 650B Intense Spider, both in large. My evil is only 1lb 7oz heavier then my Spider and 1/3rd the price (got a stupid deal on the FMB with test ride miles on it for $2500).

So it rolls faster (a lot faster), climbs better, jumps better, and get through tech better then my 650B and that shocks me.

I want to dial in the shock a little better but I can't figure out if it's got an issue or not. The main rebound dial on the top only seems to have like 6 clicks full closed to open but I feel like I've read it has more. Anyone have any input on this? I'm still messing with shock pressure as I started with 190 in it and was blowing through the travel and sag was well over 30%. I'm hearing this shock needs to cycle to get the air to swap from negative to positive when initially pumping it.
 

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Just swapped out my ethirteen wheels and tires. I’ve had 3 sets of them on various bikes, one Carbon and no complaints. No real need to switch just got a deal on a set of DT ex1700 take offs. Upgraded the 350 rear hub from 36t to 54. Didn’t save much if any weight, not sure I gained a lot but I like 2 sets of hoops laying around for the day I smash one.


I purchased my Following MB this year and sold my YT Jeffsy 27.5. Can’t believe it’s even more playful than the Jeffsy. Both bikes are awesome but as I get older I’d rather be a little under biked for big days that are fewer and far between than overbike for trail riding.
 

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Friend of mine just built up a new MB. He came from a Meta TR. He says that his body position is better on the MB...he also says that it pedals better than the Meta.
 

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Caused a little damage today and need some advice. I had a slow fall or tip on a rock garden today. I wasn’t concerned when my momentum stoped, “I was like I got this... oh wait I don’t.... on wait I’m slowly going over on rocks....this is going to hurt!”, lol.
It was comical at first then I noticed I kind of pivoted sideways with the rear triangle on a rock and of course my left elbow landed squarely on another.
Anyway it cracked the brake line holder bracket 3/4 thru.

It looks very much like a crack in the pic but it is not, I guess the paint kind of cracked or tore a seam. The CF behind it is solid, just weird how the paint looks.





not sure why it’s sideways, anyway.

Im OCD but I also realize it’s a MTB. That said I guess my options are

#1- find a product of fill the gap and adhere it back to the triangle and paint over it.
#2- put a larger zip tie on it and wait for the inevitable.
#3- take a razor blade and gently convince the brake holder to leave the bike, then paint the area.

Anyway what say you guys. I’m probably way too concerned but this is my first time since I got the bike that I put her down. The first ding is the hardest.

Thanks guys.Rye
 

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definitely looks like a crack to me. Did it pass the "tap test" with a nickel? If it was me I think I would send out the rear triangle to a carbon repair shop and have it done right and also to make sure there isn't structural issues with the seat stay.
 

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@RyeThomas personally I wouldn't ride the bike with damage like that as I would be concerned about complete failure of that area of the swingarm happening while riding.

There are 2 options:

1. Contact Evil with pictures and ask to buy a Crash replacement swingarm.

2. Get the damage professionally repaired by someone specialising in carbon bike repairs.

I had to buy a Crash Replacement swingarm for damage in the same area due to an unintended bike to tree interaction. The cost of repair was only going to be slightly cheaper than a new swingarm and the new one came with a new set of bearings pressed in.
 

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It really does from the pics but it’s weird like the paint cracked.

Passed the coin test, feels super solid as I grab it and rock it L/R.
now the tab or brake line holder is definitely cracked but it seems as though that is Obviously just somehow attached to the top of the main triangle, like glued on and painted.

I feel as though that’s gotta go then I can further inspect. Larger image below, this was at super slow speed and while I understand rocks and CF are not friends I would be highly disappointed if something so simple cracked the bike, it absorbed little to no force, me on the other hand.
 

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Ok guys, I appreciate it. I’ll contact Evil right now. I’m not about saving a couple bucks vs Safety.

I appreciate your responses.
 

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That sucks, but I've had a similar issue on a prior non-Evil carbon bike so it's not too uncommon - I rode a slow speed turn, jammed front wheel on a rock and the frame fell over sideways onto a pointed rock, hitting right on a riveted-in cable stop. Ended up having to do a crash replacement on the front triangle :-(
 

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well woke up this am and decided the damage as done so I may as well remove the brake line connector, sand it down and see how she looks.
Man it’s tiny and hairline, I’m not able to feel it but it seems to be a crack. Scratches are linear, this is not.
Im not an expert, no exposed fibers, again I can’t feel it, not sure if I’m making a big deal about a surface stress mark or if a crack is a crack and it’s time for a new rear?
 

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Ok so I contacted a local CF repair shop a few people have used with good results and talked to them a good while. Issue was any CF repair is far more about time and labor than the actual amount or size of the repair. It’s wasn’t any more cost effective than just purchasing a new crash replacement from Evil. I was shocked but after talking with the guy I get it...I guess.
anyway she’s broken down and the swing arm will be headed out tomorrow.
 

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And that's the HA for Low position... in High the Following is 67.4. I ride mine in High for all riding... from long trail rides to bike park and anything in between. The bike slays and is an excellent and efficient climber.
What's the low setting better for?
 

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What do you guys think of putting on an offering link and a offering size shock on the following mb?

I noticed the dog bones and the flip chip is the same so it got me thinking....

would a offering link and a 185x55 work?
 

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^ Do yourself a favor. Remove all of the air from your rear shock, cycle the suspension. Take a close look at the clearance between the seat tube and the rear tire at full travel. Now ask yourself if trying to add more shock stroke/ travel is really an intelligent decision. Lots of frames do indeed have room to “long shock” and add travel. The Following definitely isn’t one of them. I don’t know for sure if the links would change the suspension kinematics but I’d be surprised if they didn’t, and more surprised if they made a positive impact. Most likely they would change the overall leverage rate anti squat and other ride characteristics for the worse. I’m no suspension engineer but I doubt that it’s gonna work out favorably for you. However in the name of science and testing out health care deductibles, let ‘er buck and report back!
 

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I changed out the Monarch shock on my V1 Following to a Mcleod. The only size close was the 190x50 that can be shortened 6mm to 184x44. Before shortening the stroke on the Mcleod I installed it to see if it would work. It indeed did work no tire rub on seat tube only tire buzz on saddle when dropped. Did I like it with the longer travel? not really bike wallowed in the mid stroke quite a bit.
 

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I changed out the Monarch shock on my V1 Following to a Mcleod. The only size close was the 190x50 that can be shortened 6mm to 184x44. Before shortening the stroke on the Mcleod I installed it to see if it would work. It indeed did work no tire rub on seat tube only tire buzz on saddle when dropped. Did I like it with the longer travel? not really bike wallowed in the mid stroke quite a bit.
There are too many variables here to say for sure but homeboy Is talking about adding another 5mm yet, which is a lot. In your particular situation I’m sure there are certain rear tires in certain geo setups (I.e. a skinny ish tire in “low”) that work no problem but my last 2 followings have damn near rubbed the seat tube at full travel with Maxxis and Michelin rubber in “x-low” and off of some drops I can sometimes get the tire to contact. 10mm+ in shock stroke is a bad idea especially with a link that’s designed for a different frame.
 

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I was running Schwalbe 2.35 NN on 30mm internal rims. The tires measured out at 2.49 on those rims. Although my Following was a large, so smaller frame sizes may have an interference issue. Like I said the ride quality suffered with the longer shock.
 
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