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Equalizer II setup

21808 Views 21 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  Belox
Hi everyone,
my first post on this forum, and straight out of the gun I need some help.

I am a little confused about the Equalizer II sag setup. My dealer and I set up the air pressure in both tanks according to scale sticker on the shock. We added the correct air pressure for my 95 kilos. All good.

The following day I went for a street ride. I found on one occasion I bottomed out the rear shock.

Later at home I studied the manual pertaining to the shock setup. Using the "Sag-boy" scale, I determined my sag was too much (possibly why I bottomed out). After putting much more pressure in the positive tank, I now have the correct sag.

It doesnt say anywhere what pressures NOT to exceed. Will I hurt the shock?

I have also noticed a little oil in the vicinity of the lockout cable. Its a version 3.25. I hope I dont have any trouble.

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After reading the equalizer manual and finding the correct psi for your weight, i'm guessing you have got above the pressure which is said from the manual, in your shock. On the pressures table/sticker, it indicates that 405psi is right for a 90kg rider. In the manual it also states to have a shock pump with a scale up to 435psi, so maybe that is the max pressure they are supposed to hold, don't count me on that though.
Thanks for your reply Ryan.
On my shock, the pressure sticker states for a 95kg rider, pressure should be 377psi.
My shock pump goes up to 600psi (Scott genuine pump) :eek:

Im running about 400-450psi.

Just finished my first off road ride on the bike.
Rear shock worked really well. No additional leaking oil :thumbsup:

Just developed a creaking noise, I think its the shock mounts :madman:

All good, really stoked with the ride.

hey all,

I have a 09 Genius 20 and found mine bottoming out also. Then I found this cool excel utility on the scott website where you enter your weight and type of riding, soft,normal or rough and it gives you suggested pressures for both chambers. Its here if you want to get it -

under 2009 bike manuals - Equalizer Tool

What I wanted to know is the 'Sag-boy' measure just the grey bar on the side of the front page of the manual? I only have the downloaded manual which I have printed.

Loving the bike. Climbs amazingly well.
mind, how to increase the bottom out forces on equalizer and at the same time keep the shock plush enough for small mumps?
I ride wit 310 psi in positive and 320 in negative.
Any ideas?
on my ransom i run around 410 lbs. at 450lbs the shock is not the same shock and does not operate right at all. starts bottoming out and feels like it is only using the bottom half of the shock range. I let the air out and refilled to 405lbs of air and all is good.

I also have to drop a drop of triflow on my pivot points by the bottom bracket to take care of the squeeking sound.

I am 6 1 205lbs.

You mean the bottoming at 450 and when 405 its not???
yep, I actually think that you can put to much air in the shock and it changes the characteristics alot. It seems like the negative chamber does not allow the positive chamber to come back into the shock when you have to much air. so you are always at the bottom half of the travel.
What I wanted to know is the 'Sag-boy' measure just the grey bar on the side of the front page of the manual? I only have the downloaded manual which I have printed.

Loving the bike. Climbs amazingly well.
I too only have the printed manual and would like to know this.
I need help on my Equalizer 2. I have the 2009 Genius 50 and I dont know how to set the sag on this shock. So, please check and see if I did this right.

According to the manual, it says to set the sag to 12.5mm while the rider is on the bike. I weigh in at 145 geared up but I pumped the rear shock to 130lbs rider to get the 12.5mm sag. If I pumped it for 140-145 rider, I can't get the 12.5mm sag.

I measured the sag by sitting on the bike while a friend of mine measured how much the bottom part of the piston was lowered. So measuring the piston, we were able to get 12.5mm. Is this how we're suppose to get the correct sag? Please help!

FYI... the tool we used was, we measured a wd-40 red straw to 12.5mm then cut it. When I sat on the bike, he then insert the straw next to the piston until it fits perfectly.

The sag eye-to-eye measurement is the gray bar on the front of the manual, but the problem is that the manual is not printed in USA on 8.5"x11" paper, I think it's printed on size A4 paper. This means that when you print the manual from a download on 8.5"x11" paper the size of the gray bar is incorrect. It would have been nice if Scott would have just told us what the length eye-to-eye should be.

That said, what you did with the 12.5mm 'straw' is good.

Remember that the factory guidelines are just that, guidelines. Try riding the bike at the pressure to get the 12.5mm sag. Then try a little more air and a little less air (so you are trying sags in the range of 20% to 30%) and see which sag you prefer by the way the bike rides and reacts.
Thank you Whitedog. I found my original manual (not from print/download) and saw this gray line. I will post a pic of it here later to give others an idea. It would definitely be easier it they just give the the length of this gray line.

According to spec, I have 150mm travel. So subtract 20% for sag, I should have 30mm of sag and 120mm of travel left. That sounds like a lot of sag for 20%=30mm. Won't this change the geometry of the bike especially when climbing using traction control? It's going to feel like trying to reach for the pedal especially when climbing on a steep hill. Is this suppose to be like this? I can't imagine the 30% sag... Anyway, I appreciate your reply and I will definitely try that 20% sag.
The bike manufacturers take sag into account when the figure out all their geometry's. That 20%-30% range is the norm for sag. That 30mm of sag you mention helps the bike (and your butt) remain level/stable while the wheel drops into a hole.

The equalizer shock when in the lock out position has basically 0 sag. In the traction mode, the total travel is around 100mm, and the sag is 25% of that, so around 25mm, when in full travel mode (150mm), 25% sag is 37.5mm, so the geometry 'changes' based on the amount of sag for the various shock modes.

When riding the bike on level ground and going thru the 3 different shock modes, you can feel the rear riding higher in the lock out and the traction mode vs. the full travel mode.

Since you have the manual, be sure to measure the length of the gray sag bar line and let us know what it is so we can make our own 'sag meter'.

The measurement of this gray bar (sag-boy) is 180mm. The eye-to-eye (top mounting bold and lower mounting bolt) when at zero sag, has165mm. When I'm sitting down (geared up), I get 180mm from top/bottm mount bolt which leads to 15mm sag.

I haven't done the 20% sag but I'll do it tonight.

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Ok, here's what I found out. Under the 2009 S-Genius Manual, it specifically mentioned that, "The SAG should be 12.5mm on the shock piston, which means approx. 25% SAG in FULL TRAVEL POSITION." That being said, the 12.5mm is the 25% SAG we need to have on this bike. They didnt use 150mm-25% but rather used, 100mm-25%=12.5mm. Idk why 100mm when this bike specs is 150mm of travel in the rear. Anyway, with the 12.5mm-13mm sag, the eye-to-eye is at about a couple of mm shy of 180mm.

165mm eye-to-eye distance with no SAG
180mm is the sag-boy. This is where your sag should be if using 25%SAG.

When I was trying to get at least 25mm sag, thinking that this number is 20-25% sag, the bike had to be pumped with air psi spec at 88 lbs but my weight geared up is at 145 lbs. Also, with 88lbs i was able to get 23-25mm but when LO feature is being used, the bike starts to sag down on its own. Almost feels like its leaking air. Who knows. I dont like that 25mm sag because i lost my LO feature and the rear end is way too low.

On my second run, i pumped up the shock for 132lbs rider (-16bar/+20bar) and i was able to get a 17mm SAG. With this, the bike passed the sag-boy by 2mm but it felt slightly smoother than 143lbs rider weight spec. Also the air doesnt leak and my LO feature came back. I guess with the 88lbs rider weight, theres just not enough air and I'm just too heavy for this spec.

The bottom line is that, it doesnt matter what your weight is. Just make sure you get 12-15mm sag to get that 25% sag as per the manual stated. Just adjust the pressure to make sure that the eye-to-eye distance is at 180mm or go for more by adding 5% more on the sag (30%).
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Thanks for posting that, nice to finally get confirmation on the actual measurement of the sag-boy!
Quick questions guys.

I had my rear shock setup to:
143 lbs rider
+ 20 BAR
-17 BAR (as oppose to -16 BAR for 143lbs) I added more air so that I can absorb those little bumps better.

With these settings I still get 17mm sag however, my lockout feature doesnt stay in "0" sag. It stays at 17mm sag but in lock-out (rigid). When I have the bike sitting on its own without the rider, there's no sag on the shock but right when I sit on it, all I have to do is wait about a minute and it'll start to sag. Is this normal? My bike now has 17mm sag when I'm climbing... I just want to know if this is how you guys have yours setup.

Hey guys.
I have something strange with my equalizer...
When I pump the shock , first in positive untill it reach 320 psi, then I pump the negative chamber.And when the pressure reached to about 220-250 psi, shock starts to compress itself .So when it already have pressure in negative 320 psi, the shock leg compressed about 1/5 of travel... Whats wrong with the shock? ((
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