epiphany w/fox talas xtt?
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I rode one at the IB on dirt demo.
I think if you value plushness over absolute efficiency, you'll be better off with a regular TALAS. The shock seemed rough at times and that may have been the inertia valve. I didn't do the set up so my impression may not be accurate.
If you want to race your bike and want the most efficient setup, the XTT just might be the best choice.
I think if you value plushness over absolute efficiency, you'll be better off with a regular TALAS. The shock seemed rough at times and that may have been the inertia valve. I didn't do the set up so my impression may not be accurate.
If you want to race your bike and want the most efficient setup, the XTT just might be the best choice.
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410 Posts
I'm rock'n the EPI with the RS Revelation (dual air), and it is PERFECTLY balanced - forget the inertia valve, I think you'll want to feel the "float" of fully active efficient suspension. No worries on climbing, my setup is now climbing like a banshee.
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I've had several different travel adjusters and the only one I really like is ETA, which essentially is something completely different than a true travel adjust. I found that climbing with it on is easier and makes some steep sections more tolerable. But for most of my climbing, having an active fork is best.
The 130mm Talas will put the bike in a nice balanced position. Could you imagine a lesser HA? Steeper HAs give you advantage in maneuverability, yet you probably won't run that bike at 100mm of travel on the DH. So then, what real advantage is it to lower your HA on the climb? Like I noted, only the steepest of climbs have I found it to be necessary, whereas on other moderate, especially technical climbs like we have here and most of the West, an active fork is best. In the past, I've found that I didn't use the travel adjusters much and just left the fork at full extension.
I guess my point would be that Talas requires you to stop, adjust the travel and go. ETA allows you to flick a switch from the saddle as you're climbing then flick it back when you crest the hill without the need to stop. I've always like that aspect. No need to load or unload the fork to change the effective HA for climbing purposes. If you're going to use the travel adjust to change the HA for maneuverabilty, then Talas makes sense, as does say U-turn and TAS since the fork will remain active thru whatever travel you choose.
Just some thoughts from a "Marzocchi guy".
The 130mm Talas will put the bike in a nice balanced position. Could you imagine a lesser HA? Steeper HAs give you advantage in maneuverability, yet you probably won't run that bike at 100mm of travel on the DH. So then, what real advantage is it to lower your HA on the climb? Like I noted, only the steepest of climbs have I found it to be necessary, whereas on other moderate, especially technical climbs like we have here and most of the West, an active fork is best. In the past, I've found that I didn't use the travel adjusters much and just left the fork at full extension.
I guess my point would be that Talas requires you to stop, adjust the travel and go. ETA allows you to flick a switch from the saddle as you're climbing then flick it back when you crest the hill without the need to stop. I've always like that aspect. No need to load or unload the fork to change the effective HA for climbing purposes. If you're going to use the travel adjust to change the HA for maneuverabilty, then Talas makes sense, as does say U-turn and TAS since the fork will remain active thru whatever travel you choose.
Just some thoughts from a "Marzocchi guy".
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410 Posts
BTW Trekster, I'm not diss'n your XTT, I think it will be a fun fork once you find your desired inertia balance. Its a tempting idea that I considered, but in the end I chose the Revelation (non-U-Turn).Trekster said:
Hurry up and build that Biach So we can get some more feedback out there on the EPI, it really deserves some good press.
I originally thought ETA wasn't all that necessary on my 150mm AM1 but I did some long, steep fireroad climbs over the weekend and I discovered that it does help. It did help me to keep the front end straight with less effort and concentration. Every little thing starts to make a difference when the hill is long!chad1433 said:
ETA is so easy to use: flip lever, push down, voila! Your fork is a couple of inches shorter. Get up the hill, flip the lever again and back to normal. You won't miss a beat.
After reading your comments and looking at my application a little more.
I am going to purchase a 130mm Float RLC....keep the XTT for another application.
I like to stand a push a huge gear (too much SS riding)....I hate fussing with stuff on a ride and hate stopping....
I want a lockout and that is it...
I have a buddy that needs to check his GPS...dial in his for for climbs / down hill....change his glasses...etc...drives me insain
I am going to purchase a 130mm Float RLC....keep the XTT for another application.
I like to stand a push a huge gear (too much SS riding)....I hate fussing with stuff on a ride and hate stopping....
I want a lockout and that is it...
I have a buddy that needs to check his GPS...dial in his for for climbs / down hill....change his glasses...etc...drives me insain
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4,150 Posts
You can also use the compression setting as a bit of a "platform" for riding as well. I like my compression adjuster and tinker with if on various trail sections.Trekster said:
That Fox will be a prime candidate for a Push upgrade in the future, too!
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Dude, You totaly need the 3 setting version, but If you want to just build your bike now, I think you can have Fox or Push ind. retrofit the 3 position lever when it actually becomes available. I'm with you though, the 3 position almost lured me over to Fox, and I didn't EVEN WANT height adjustment-it's just looks so damn easy to use!!!Trekster said:
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