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I'm currently on an 5 year old geometry (twitchy) 100mm FS bike and would like something more capable for day-to-day riding and destination MTB trails. Does anyone have any experience racing on the Epic EVO? Races around the midwest are much more windy and it's critical to maintain speed through corners. I'm worried the 66.5 degree HTA may be an obstacle here. Unfortunately, I can't demo and see for myself. I have zero interest in EPIC/Brain.

I'm also curious if anyone has figured out if there are lockout options on the Rockshox builds....

FWIW I compete for CAT1 podiums.
 

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66.5* won't be an obstacle at all. Last year I wanted an EVO but couldn't get one. So I bought a regular S-works and swapped a 120mm Fox SC for on there, thus making the HTA 66.5 just like the EVO. Doing so made the bike even better, with no detectable downsides. Stiffer fork, slightly higher BB, slacker HTA and more confidence inspiring in the down hills. Just do it if you can find one :)
 

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You can definitely race it. Plus, you can adjust the HTA to 67 if you want to make it slightly more XC. I'm not generally racing for a podium spot, but I'm not bringing up the rear. Maybe the really competitive racers would want a full XC race whip. But, the EVO works for me.

As for lockout, there aren't currently any options on completes or frames. But, the frame is prepped for a rear shock lockout. So, you could upgrade shock and/or fork if you wanted a lockout.
 

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Of course you can race it (XC or Marathons?), even in the default slacker option it feels great in corners or when climbing... And Evo is slightly lighter than normal Epic. But for XCO you might really want some kind of remote-lockout for sprints... In the default config it's a perfect marathon bike :)
I did both kind of races (XCO and XCM), though nowhere near your level, hehe... so remote-lockout was not necessary for me - in XC I could still win a few sprints, for XXth place, without lockout and when doing long gravel/asphalt climbs in marathon I just swap fork/shock manually (2 seconds don't matter on >1 hour alpine climbs, haha)
Actuall I have seen plenty of them in both types of races here (though non-Evo Epics as well)
 

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I think they are great for racing. Light weight bike, nicely balanced bike. Perhaps the only draw back is no remote lockout, but honestly reaching down and throwing a lockout lever on a shock really isn't that big of a deal. Certainly a very minimal performance negative.
 

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I have an Epic Evo (2021) and when I got it I was a bit concerned that the head angle would make it slower turning on twisty trails, but that has not been the case at all. I find it to be faster turning and more nimble than the Rocky Mountain Element (2019) I had before it despite a slacker head angle and longer wheel base. For me it works great for racing but I only focus on XCM type races, for XCO I think I would want a remote lockout. On the other hand I really appreciate not having all the remote cables on the handlebars.

To add lockout you would need a new rear shock and to exchange the damper cartridge in the fork (if it is RS shock/fork on the bike you are looking at). For the rear shock that is a bit expensive, for the fork it is about 200-250 EUR, so not super expensive.
 

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Isn’t the epic evo THE race bike in their lineup? Am I missing something… why would you not race it?
The Epic versions with Brain are what Specialized think works best for racing so that is what the sponsored teams are on, but I think it is really nice that they offer the Evo without Brain (and actually without any strange standards at all), that was one of the main points for me when I got the bike.
 

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To add lockout you would need a new rear shock and to exchange the damper cartridge in the fork (if it is RS shock/fork on the bike you are looking at). For the rear shock that is a bit expensive, for the fork it is about 200-250 EUR, so not super expensive.
If you have a fox shock you can send it to fox and they can add the remote. Last time I did it, it was ~$150 iirc. Includes a full service.

I think the fork might be cheaper too. Because I think they can swap out the necessary parts, and not the whole damper.

You can for sure call fox and they can quote you.
 

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I don't know about the current Evo, but I had the '18 Epic Brain turned off, or close to off. It didn't bob when pedaling, I never felt the need to lock it.

I am experimenting with my new XC bike. My last race was with the shock in climb mode, but I will race it in open next time (same course). Out on trail, pedaling feels the same.

I went from 69.5 on my last XC bike to 67.5 on my new one. I don't think another degree would bother me. My trail bike is 65 and it never bothers me in tight stuff.
 

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My 17yr old son races an Epic Evo. It was a base model and we’ve been upgrading it recently. Like others said the frame has a hole to run cable to the shock. RS SiD fork and shock with remote lockouts and get RS twist lock system (it’s in the left grip). It’s an on/off system and the way to go for racing imo.



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Go for it. You can build her as light weight as regular Sworks without the hassle of brain service.

Fork is 200 heavier, but frame is lighter.

You could run a lockout through frame for a lockout cable if you really need it, but you don’t need it like you think you do. You can use a lockout to run both shock and fork. It may be better overall to do a Frame only Sworks evo and build to your liking with a remote lockout Sid ultimate.




I race a similar bike. 22lb 2021 top fuel and it’s super rad. I run mine open suspension all of the time traction on climbs is much more important than the firm platform. I’m not nationally fast, but I won the state Marathon series on it and consistently podium C1.


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My ‘22 SWorks EE came in quite raceworthy at 20.25 lbs all in, Fox SC 34 fork, Fox Transfer SL dropper, Candy 11 pedals, Light Bicycle Recon wheels/DT Swiss 180 hubs, SRAM Eagle AXS, Shimano XTR brakes, Sworks bars, Extralite stem. See in 2022 Epic EVO thread.
 

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My 17yr old son races an Epic Evo. It was a base model and we’ve been upgrading it recently. Like others said the frame has a hole to run cable to the shock. RS SiD fork and shock with remote lockouts and get RS twist lock system (it’s in the left grip). It’s an on/off system and the way to go for racing imo.


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abeckstead - it pains me to see your picture of the bike stand clamping onto your beautiful frame. Pretty sure that's never recommended and a recipe for a cracked frame. Clamp onto the actual seat post. Nice looking bike!
 

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abeckstead - it pains me to see your picture of the bike stand clamping onto your beautiful frame. Pretty sure that's never recommended and a recipe for a cracked frame. Clamp onto the actual seat post. Nice looking bike!
Relax... I rarely do that and it was barely tight enough to hold the bike. Sometimes it's necessary when doing certain things.
 

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abeckstead - it pains me to see your picture of the bike stand clamping onto your beautiful frame. Pretty sure that's never recommended and a recipe for a cracked frame. Clamp onto the actual seat post. Nice looking bike!
I recall a youtube vid some years ago in which someone took a C-Dale frame and used a clamp to squeeze the downtube together until the 2 opposite sides literally touched each other. Didn't seem to have any effect on the integrity of the tube. I'm not suggesting anyone try that themselves, but what it indicates to me that you may be very far to the conservative side of the spectrum in your idea of what deformation a carbon frame tube can undergo.
 

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Think it depends which kind of stand-clamp you have… I have been clamping carbon frames (road or mtb) in mine (kind of cheap but stable one, has rubber inserts in the clamp) since years and never had any issue, of course I don’t clamp it tight as hell, just tightening it “by feel”
 
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