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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I posted this in the Suspension forum, got 60+ views and no responses... hopefully someone here can help :)

Hi all, I've done a lot of searching and most of the Monarch RT3 reviews/threads are based on the PUSHed version which they seem to not be making anymore. So forgive me if I've committed a forum sin with this thread.

I currently ride an 08 Enduro SL Sworks with a bunch of upgraded goodies (complements of the previous owner, my bro-inlaw). I love everything about the bike but I've heard the rear shock pales in comparison to other shocks. I'm looking to replace it with either the Float CTD Evolution or the Monarch RT3 (both stock not PUSHed). Any input on the choice between the two? I'm in Marin and need as much benefit from a shock on climbs as I do on the descents.

Thanks for the input!​
 

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I have always been happy with the AFR. I can see going coil if you mainly do lift serve DH or a platform shock if you do a lot of fire road climbing. Sounds to me like you need the shock you have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have always been happy with the AFR. I can see going coil if you mainly do lift serve DH or a platform shock if you do a lot of fire road climbing. Sounds to me like you need the shock you have.
I do a fair amount of fire road/less technical climbing. Also, I feel like the AFR isn't as plush or pleasant going downhill on nasty terrain. Maybe it's just me but the AFR doesn't feel like it lives up to the E150 up front when going down??
 

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I've had two AFR shocks both stock,
One felt like it had been pushed, can't fault it, still got it
The other felt lacking in the compression ? Cheap, not right
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Perhaps I'm expecting too much from it, but if I run 30% sag, it's actually pretty compliant and plush but it bottoms out on moderate trails. If I run it with less sag, it's pretty brutal but it helps with the bottoming out. I'm definitely new to the technical aspects of full suspension bikes (although I've ridden bikes for a while)... maybe I'm asking for too much? I want plush downhill over rocky/rutty terrain and a few drops and I want efficiency going uphill. I feel like going up is pretty good with the right sag, but I would like more plush going down.
 

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Have you tried running the compression adjuster in number two or three,
I find number one too open ? Blows through to easy
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Have you tried running the compression adjuster in number two or three,
I find number one too open ? Blows through to easy
I just bought a CTD online. Should have it on the bike soon. I'll let you know how it does. I just rode with someone yesterday who has the CTD on his enduro sl and loves it.
 

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My RP23 in low rebound, low compression tune is pretty good and miles better than the AFR. But I have the 2012 RP23 shock on my sworks SL. I run it on "1" most of the time and it doesn't bob much and gives a bit more pop off undulations than leaving it wide open.
 

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marc.t - What's the verdict on the Float CTD? I'm tired of my AFR for the same reasons that many have listed. Just curious if the CTD works well on the Enduro SL. I don't see how it could be worse than the AFR.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
marc.t - What's the verdict on the Float CTD? I'm tired of my AFR for the same reasons that many have listed. Just curious if the CTD works well on the Enduro SL. I don't see how it could be worse than the AFR.
I ordered it online, and received the wrong set of mounting hardware. FYI the carbon versions of the SL have a different mounting width on the lower shock mount than the top. It should be 22mm wide on top and 27.4mm wide on bottom. The store is sending out the proper hardware now and I should have it on the bike for a ride this weekend. Another item of note, with the CTD shock in the 7.875x2.25 size, it only comes in the extra volume can. At my weight (185lbs with gear) and the leverage ratio of the SL, it may be necessary to use the Fox volume reducer kit to change the compression ratio. I'll give it a try as is and see how it does.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Follow up:

I've ridden the CTD twice now and I love it! I guess the best way to describe it is I don't notice anything while riding. What I mean is that it handles so nicely that I set it to C T or D and just ride and don't think about it until the next section, whereas with the AFR it always seemed to remind me that it was there: awkward on full firm, too soft on full soft, the two in between settings were never right. With the CTD I'm at about 30-35% sag and I never bottomed out. With the AFR, at 25%, it'd bottom out on the basic China Camp Loop. So I really like the Fox shock. Much more plush without bottoming out and I feel like I have better traction or contact with it. Definitely recommend it.
 

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Hi. How much was the shock conversion all together? What fork are you running? I am doing the math on suspension replacement or just getting a new bike all together. I am kind of over the whole specialized suspension experiment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hi. How much was the shock conversion all together? What fork are you running? I am doing the math on suspension replacement or just getting a new bike all together. I am kind of over the whole specialized suspension experiment.
I'm in it about $300. I'm running the E150 fork, which I like for the most part. What fork do you have? If you don't have the E150, and you aren't satisfied with your current fork, it might not be a bad idea to change it out. It's more expensive to switch out the dual crown for a single crown: the e150 has a 25mm axle and hub, so you need to go with a different hub for any other fork, also, the e150 has an integrated stem so you need to buy a new stem, etc. With a single crown, you can switch out forks for probably $300 less than I can.
 

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I have the E150. It is a creaky noisy fork. The performance is pretty good just looking for a better climbing bike that has better suspension too. Does your E150 creak?

Thanks
 

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E-150 creak? Not at all. I have had occasional problems with the stem/bars creaking - usually fixed with assembly paste.
 

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Thread resurrection.

I have an 07 Enduro SL with 08+ fork cartridges and revised rear AFR shock, on which I regularly service the air-can.

I still dislike the AFR shock for the following reasons:
- any platform settings just feel brutal, but are great on fireroad climbs
- Full open never feels fully open
- Tiny levers are hard to adjust while riding and every time I turn the blue compression dial, I change rebound accidentally
- I run 20 PSI under suggested air pressure and still never bottom it out, yet it still feels brutal. I'm 165 with full gear.
- If I turn the rebound knob more than a few clicks from full fast, it feels like it affects compression as well.
- for fast, rocky downhill, even on full open compression, it firms up part way down and beats the hell out of me. (Think Rocky ridge and Stiles at Santa Teresa county park - if you've been there)
- it just lever feels quite right

Recently, I demo'd a stumpy Evo 650b. Awesome bike, but not a lot different from my 07 Enduro SL - very similar in travel and geometry. I am running with a shorter 60mm stem and wider 740mm bars. With the stumpy, I mostly noticed how plush the rear end was with a CTD. Was blown away by that. The climb mode was great for fire-road and trail was great for climbing slow chunky terrain. Descend felt truly wide-open. I am hoping I can get some of that feeling on my Enduro SL which other than the rear shock, feels great.

I am considering an RP23 (2012) or CTD. Marc.T, did you ever use the volume reducer in the CTD? what did it do for the ride?

Does anyone know how the 2012 RP3 compares with the 2015 CTD? I also plan to send the shock to Push to get tuned just right, but not sure which shock to start with. Matt at Push mentioned the 2012 RP23 seems to hold up better than the CTD stuff. Something about detent bearings not being sealed on the CTD like they are on the RP23.

Just wanted some more opinions before I drop $500+ for a shock and push-tune. Still cheaper than a $6k stumpy evo 650b.
 
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