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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What are the best options for converting my Endo to 1x9? I've seen a few similar posts, so I hate to beat a dead horse if this has been discussed, but I'm looking for options specific to my current set-up, or to find out if it is possible to make the switch without having to get an abundance of new parts. Currently running a Stylo 3.3 crankset with a bash-guard in place of the outer ring. I'd like to keep the bash-guard if I can, and I assume the middle ring position is where I want my soon-to-be only ring to be located, is that correct? Seems that would offer the best chainline for a full range of rear shifting, but I don't know. Is it possible to run another bash-type ring where the current granny exists? Or is that way outta left field? It seems like that is basically what some of the taco-style 1x set-ups are, but this is new territory for me, so I may way off base. I can have an inner bash-type ring made by a friend of mine that makes custom chainrings & guards if that idea is plausible. Basically I'm looking for a way to keep my current cranks & bash-guard in play if possible. Thanks for any advice!
 

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Magsrgod said:
Take off your granny chainring, get rid of your front D and shifter, get a chain guide thats used for 32 - 36 Tooth rings and your all set.
For running a 1x9 (or 1x10) do you NEED to go with a chain guide? What if you are currently on a 2x9 setup and are not experiencing chain drop issues with no chainguide?

Just curious as I am considering a 1x setup for one of my bikes this coming season.

:thumbsup:
 

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006_007 said:
For running a 1x9 (or 1x10) do you NEED to go with a chain guide? What if you are currently on a 2x9 setup and are not experiencing chain drop issues with no chainguide?

Just curious as I am considering a 1x setup for one of my bikes this coming season.

:thumbsup:
I did, as soon as I dropped the Front D I was getting bad chain jump going over rocky terrain, on a normal 2 hour ride I would have to stop 15+ times to put my chain back on.

I tried just running a Blackspire stinger and that didnt cut it either. So for my primary trail bikes I've been running a Gamut system and for my back up bike I use a Stinger with a N-Gear Jump stop.
 

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Magsrgod said:
I did, as soon as I dropped the Front D I was getting bad chain jump going over rocky terrain, on a normal 2 hour ride I would have to stop 15+ times to put my chain back on.

I tried just running a Blackspire stinger and that didnt cut it either. So for my primary trail bikes I've been running a Gamut system and for my back up bike I use a Stinger with a N-Gear Jump stop.
good 411 to know - thanks :thumbsup:
 

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Gamut makes a BB mount Boomerang for their chain guides as well. If I was buying a new one I would definitely look into the MRP G2 as well, I think it's considerably lighter than the Gamut system.

 

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Yes, you need a chainguide, unless you plan on taking it really easy at all times....which is not what Knollys are made for! :)

You can keep your cranks, but I strongly recommend buying a non-ramped chainring. You can keep your bash too, or go with a guide like the G2SL and lose some weight. You'll want the BB mount version of the guide, don't mess with ISCG adapters - you don't have to. I ran this setup for quite awhile and never dropped my chain....ever.

Endo w/ G2SL

We don't have blue yet, but we do have black, white, orange, and neon green......
 

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dubthang said:
Check to see if you can actually run a ss ring on your crank. My Stylo 3.3 won't take ss rings on the inside, only the outside. I believe this is why Truvativ sells ss specific cranks.
I have a set of Stylo 3.3 that I cut the granny tabs off and run an e13 ring on the inside no issues. What ring are you running??
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Currently running 2 Blackspire Pro rings & a bash. For the kind of coin you have to drop for either an e13 or MRP set-up, I'll probably just end up with a new crank set--about the same price, fewer parts, and a little less weight involved.
 

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Guy.Ford said:
I have a set of Stylo 3.3 that I cut the granny tabs off and run an e13 ring on the inside no issues. What ring are you running??
My Stylo is an '08 model (I think) and it won't fit Origin 8 rings or my Rotor ring. The inside shoulder of my crank is sized differently than the ouside part that butts up against the ring/bash. It fits Truvativ middle rings perfectly, but not standard sized ss rings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
dubthang said:
My Stylo is an '08 model (I think) and it won't fit Origin 8 rings or my Rotor ring. The inside shoulder of my crank is sized differently than the ouside part that butts up against the ring/bash. It fits Truvativ middle rings perfectly, but not standard sized ss rings.
I think Blackspire makes a SS ring with the same BCD as Truvativ's rings, meaning they should fit on the Stylo if you get the right size (which I think is 64 BCD for the granny bolt spacing). I could be wrong because I haven't done much research into SS rings yet--this is my first foray, & I'm still un-decided if I'm gonna do it or not. I know the Super Pros fit the Stylo (as that is what I am running), and the granny's that I've used don't have ramps (obviously), so they could be a good SS or 1x ring. However, I only have a 24T, so I'm not sure if they have a 64 BCD in the 28, 30, or 32T range which would be more optimal for a SS or 1x set-up. If I decide to go 1x, I will post up if I find a ring in that range that fits the Stylo. I have a LBS that usually has several Blackspires on hand, and I need to go over there & check them out because it may help make up my mind as to whether I'm gonna go 1x or not. If it turns out Blackspire does not make a 64 BCD ring with more than 24 teeth, I have a friend that has a machine shop & specializes in rings & bashes in odd sizes for folks looking for something different than the norm or different ratios. He makes VERY good products that are highly touted in our local community, and has shipped custom stuff around the country as well. So if worse comes to worst, I'll have him make me one. We shall see...
 
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