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Where is it, i just got a 2004 truth and was a bit shocked to see no disc routing at all, i have to admit i never noticed this when testing the bike but isn't it a bit of a mistake to not have disc routing on a frame in this day and age.

Is there any tips on what to do or what to buy to make the disc hoses look neater, i've got them tied down with zip ties just now but would like to see if theres anything on the market that'll work better?
 

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sumguy1 said:
I zip tie the rear hydro hose to the derailleur cables until the cable goes to the drive side. At that point I just zip tie the hose to the seat stay.

It sounds worse than it works and looks.
I agree that using zip ties does sound worse than it looks. If you want to pimp your ride, as it were, you may want to consider the Hope hose guides. I think they are available for the rear mounts. A pair in silver would look pretty good on your Truth...

Regards,
Laifer
 

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Here's how i did it, works for me.

I use these cable guides and instead of the tape that came with it i replaced it with Supermount tape i got from radioshack, itsmade by 3M, just make sure you clean the surface very well with alcohol and use a tie wrap to secure it in place overnight. Never had a problem with it coming off for over 6 months now and it still looks good.
 

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Here's another option

This is how i did it with my Fuel, just to give you more options, this is a little more drastic approach to the probem, if you are using a hydro hose that you cut yourself and be able to thread the smaller end to the cable mount you can drill the stopper end of the guide (the end that stops the cable from sliding when you pull on the cable for cabled brakes) and make it look really neat.
 

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A tip- if you just zip-tie or use the hose guides, the suspension movement will rub the hydrolines across your frame at the seat-tube/top-tube juncture. This is a very difficult place to get protectors to stick due to the number of welds. This movement will quickly rub away your anodization and, if left ignored, will start to carve visible divots into the tubing. Fortunately, I discovered a very simple fix to this problem. I ran the line so that it passes through the gap between my quick release for my seat post and the seat post. This isolated the hydro-line so that it's movement is against the seat post only- and I'd like to see a hyrdo line carve through either a Salsa quick release or a Thompson post. Peace.
 

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Mike Brown said:
A tip- if you just zip-tie or use the hose guides, the suspension movement will rub the hydrolines across your frame at the seat-tube/top-tube juncture. This is a very difficult place to get protectors to stick due to the number of welds. This movement will quickly rub away your anodization and, if left ignored, will start to carve visible divots into the tubing. Fortunately, I discovered a very simple fix to this problem. I ran the line so that it passes through the gap between my quick release for my seat post and the seat post. This isolated the hydro-line so that it's movement is against the seat post only- and I'd like to see a hyrdo line carve through either a Salsa quick release or a Thompson post. Peace.
Or you can wrap the hydro line that can possibly make contact to your frame with a silicone tubing or a cut out inner tube wrapped around the tubing and glued using patch glue and zip tie both ends. i used zip tied silicone tubing.
 
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