[HillbillyTom]

Just put the first set of new pads in the rear brake and now it is dragging a bit. There is really no play in the brake lever now either. Searching around I found an old thread referring to Avids sometimes being slightly over filled with fluid from the factory and bleeding out a couple drops fixing a problem like this. Is that still an accepted way to go about it? Anything else I should look at too?
Thanks.. Tom

 

[11053]

Did you reset the caliper pistons before installing the new pads?

 

[rallymaniac]

Did you reset the caliper pistons before installing the new pads?

What he said.
If you did, you can try getting some fluid out through the bleed screw in the caliper. Also, if it's still too high, you can always sand down the back of the pad to get rid of the paint.

 

[HillbillyTom]

Yup, pried them back with a screw driver as per instructions with the new pads.
Think I'll try letting a few drops of fluid out and see if that helps. The lever doesn't really move to lock the brake. No free play at all.

 

[Guest]

I'd run through the whole rebleed process. I do that annually with my avids and whenever I change pads.

 

[HillbillyTom]

Going to have to get the bleeder tool kit to do that I'm guessing?

 

[Guest]

Going to have to get the bleeder tool kit to do that I'm guessing?

Yup, about $35 from a few e-stores. Good investment, pays for itself the first time you use it.

 

[11053]

If you made sure the pistons were completely flush with the caliper before installing the new pads and you aligned/centered the caliper after the install, did you check to make sure your rotor is true?

 

[De La Pena]

Bleed the brakes.

 

[Cotharyus]

Yes. Do as recommended and bleed the brakes, full bleed and flush. As mentioned, the bleed kit you can get on Amazon. It will pay for itself because brake systems on everything should be bled periodically, and on MTB's you should probably do it once a year whether you think you need it or not, because the fluid absorbs water, and that will cause you problems, sooner or later. When you go through the bleed process, you will notice the old fluid that you push into one of the bleed syringes is darker. That's because it's contaminated. Sometimes it's less about how much fluid is in the brakes, and more about how much water and other contaminates is in the fluid that's in your brakes.

 

[HillbillyTom]

If you made sure the pistons were completely flush with the caliper before installing the new pads and you aligned/centered the caliper after the install, did you check to make sure your rotor is true?

Rotor is true, not even the slightest hint of side to side travel. I'll take the wheel off today and have a closer look at the piston travel to see if they're all the way in and if they will go any further back. Can think better now after a good night's sleep and a day off work.
Will also order a bleed kit and change out the fluid. Got the bike late last summer and have only put 350 miles or so on it, so it shouldn't be in too bad of shape. But it's an yearly maintenance thing on the dirt bikes too, so know how it goes with fluid contamination.
Thanks for the input and help everyone!

 

[Cleared2land]

No one has mentioned centering the caliper. This is the most common problem I experience after new pad installation. And, it's the easiest problem to correct.

 

[HillbillyTom]

The caliper centering thing is something else I'm not quite understanding. Caliper should be self centering with one squeeze of the lever I would think.


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[11053]

No one has mentioned centering the caliper. This is the most common problem I experience after new pad installation. And, it's the easiest problem to correct.

Mentioned in post #8, but the OP hasn't confirmed yet that this was done.
I'd check caliper alignment before jumping in to a bleed as long as the brakes were showing no sign of needing a bleed prior.

Would also be interested to know if the OP has any adjustability in the lever reach currently.
Does adjusting the lever reach inward allow for more "play" in the lever pull?

 

[HillbillyTom]

OP here. See post #13, what exactly is up with the caliper alignment thing?
I took the wheel off and got the wheel side piston to go in another mm or so and now don't have any noticeable drag. Very little play in the lever, but there is some now. Think it's alright, but still curious about the caliper centering thing.


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[jetboy23]

Caliper Alignment

I will also slightly loosen the caliper, rotate the wheel and stop it with the lever. This will also help center it on the brake pads clamping down. Patience is your friend.

 

[HillbillyTom]

I will also slightly loosen the caliper, rotate the wheel and stop it with the lever. This will also help center it on the brake pads clamping down. Patience is your friend.

Thank you very much! Learned something here today, and am off to do the procedure.:thumbsup:

 

[HillbillyTom]

Did the caliper alignment by the video, and no brake drag at all. Wheel spins completely free.
Thanks again jetboy23, and everyone else for the input! I came away with a smooth working brake and a bit of valuable knowledge.

 

[Cleared2land]

Did the caliper alignment by the video, and no brake drag at all. Wheel spins completely free.
Thanks again jetboy23, and everyone else for the input! I came away with a smooth working brake and a bit of valuable knowledge.

One small trick to incorporate is when centering the caliper...when you have loosened the two caliper bolts and squeezed the lever to center the caliper on the rotor is to (while still holding the brake lever squeezed) gently and incrementally tighten one caliper bolt a little then the other. Gently working each up to the proper torques. If you tighten one bolt to proper torque then the other, what frequently happens is the caliper gets ever-so-slightly tweaked and will not be true to the rotor when braking.

 

[rallymaniac]

I will also slightly loosen the caliper, rotate the wheel and stop it with the lever. This will also help center it on the brake pads clamping down. Patience is your friend.

This method has yet to work on any of my brakes. I've never been able to have it rub/noise free when done this way.
The only remedy is to loosen the bolts and meticulously hand align by spinning the wheel and listening for the rub of the pads and watching for gap between pads and rotor. This way my wheels spin for minutes with slight turn by hand and there is no rub on the pads.