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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Or is it Izquierda? My Spanish is not so very good.

Thought I'd share a few pictures of my El Gordo Build. A few things about it that I find interesting:

1. I used the "narrow" Q-factor Sram X9 crank even though this is a 190mm spaced frame. I did this because I'm running a 1x10 and I didn't want to increase my Q-factor to Moonlander territory just to have the capability to run a 2x9 or 2x10 down the road. So, the crank is the standard Sram X9 fatbike crank.
2. I used a North Shore Billet direct mount chainring, but I used a BB30 type, which places the single chainring where the big ring would go. This was necessary to get around the Lou tire on a Clown Shoe rim. I draped a chain over the sprockets/chainring and in low gear I'm quite close to the tire. Doesn't look like it'll rub, and the chainline looks nice with the 190mm rear spacing. It's 26t. Yeah, I know... I need to eat a few cans of toughen-up. It'll work for now.
3. Speaking of low gears, I have a 42t Wolftooth cog on the back, with the 17t cog removed from a Sram PC1090 cassette.
4. It has a Hope Fatsno 190mm hub with a steel freehub body. The bike is setup with the 197mm x 12mm axle. UPS says my bolt from the nice folks at Fatbikes.com is almost here. If I decide to ride it with the current nylon allthread and wingnuts in place I'll be sure to take a video for y'all.

I'll post back as the build progresses. For now here are some pictures:

EGI1.jpg

EGI2.jpg

EG3.jpg

I will say this: heel clearance is tight. I sat on it making "vroom, vroom" noises whilst clicked in and wearing my size 11 Shimano boots. Heels are very close to the chain and seat stays. No rubbing, though... even if I tried. My summer shoes are about the same.
 

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Nemophilist
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Exceptionally Sweet!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the compliments! Looking at the pictures I'm thinking I'd like to black out that Lefty fork. Not sure how. Maybe a sheet of satin black vinyl decal material?

Also of note that I forgot to mention - since the El Gordo is designed for a 483mm a-c fork, this large frame puts a stock length Lefty Max at about the perfect a-c length. It is at 500mm unsagged, and around 480-485mm sagged.

Technically, it should be El Gordo Zurdo ;)
Now that one wasn't even on my radar. I knew there was a difference between direction and location... but I thought that only involved izquierda/o. I really haven't even mastered English as of yet, so I haven't done much with Spanish...
 

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Lord Thunderbottom
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The bike looks great, I'm contemplating moving to this frame with the X9 crank, can you snap a few pics showing the clearance of the crankarm/chainline/chainstays?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The bike looks great, I'm contemplating moving to this frame with the X9 crank, can you snap a few pics showing the clearance of the crankarm/chainline/chainstays?

Thanks!
Will do. I'll wait until my thru bolt gets here. Turns out my weigh-saving 1/4" nylon threaded rod doesn't keep the rear wheel in position very well...
 

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I always wished I could build a functional mountain bike that looked that clean- no cables, no visible brake levers, no visible shifters...

Trying to imagine wireless brakes...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
This right here is some tight clearance, Clarence!

Pic of the chain in low gear, Lou Tire on a Clown Shoe rim centered in the frame. As mentioned earlier, that is a Sram X9 crankset with a NSB BB30 direct-mount chainring. Frame is spaced at 190mm. The chain is tight to the tire. This all wouldn't have worked on a 170mm spaced frame, and it wouldn't work with a 2x10 setup unless you went with the widest cranksets out there:

EGI4.jpg

Pic of the boot passing the chainstay. It is tight... but I do have the shoe rotated backwards quite a bit. Size 11 Shimano boot, clipped in. I do clip a bit "foot forward" compared to some folks, but I do have the cleats outboard on the boots as much as possible - which moves the boot in towards the bike as much as possible. I do this to keep the Q factor down. It clears but it is tight:

EGI5.jpg

Not a huge issue at the seat stay:

EGI6.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yes, like that! That is a beautiful Grape Ape right there. What diameter HS tube did you use? Do you have a good source? I may need to haunt McMaster's website later...
 

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Lord Thunderbottom
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wow, that's pretty tight clearance, I'm going to have to wait and see the new 2x spider for the x9 crank before making a decision now, I want to maintain the double crank
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
wow, that's pretty tight clearance, I'm going to have to wait and see the new 2x spider for the x9 crank before making a decision now, I want to maintain the double crank
Yep. Ain't no way a 2x will work with this setup. To get a 2x around a Lou/Clownshoe you will need a Moonlander-specific crank or any of the wide Q cranks on the market.

The camera flash makes things look tighter than they are. I have about 3mm between the chain and tire in low gear. I'm happy with it but my goal was to go really fat with the narrower Q factor.
 

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I am running a 3x10 on Marge Lites with Lou tire, 170mm spacing. In the smallest sprocket, largest cog it just clears the tire's whiskers. I couldn't pull it off with a Darryl or Clown Shoe. But if you guys want to run a lot of gears with a wide tire, I think this will be your only option (on the 170mm rear spaced frames).
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Pics from my maiden voyage. I ended up getting some stick-on vinyl and blacked out the Lefty Max fork. It doubles as cable rub protection. Other than having to dink with the b screw on the derailleur a bit it was rock solid. I love the geometry of this thing, it seems to handle very well. I'll need to go get myself into some dicey situations to know just what it's capable of. ;)

Vent1.jpg

Vent3.jpg
 
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