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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,
Just want to share my secret for super shifting on the EG. On my old Motolite the shifting was so-so and ghost shifting was prone to happen if everything wasn't aligned just right (and it took alot of time to get everything to be just right). I finally drilled out the cable guides so I could run a full cable housing. This solved a lot of problems and I finally got some good shifting. But bulging cables still happened when the suspension compressed.
When I got the EG I didn't even try to run separate sections of cable. The cable guides where drilled out pronto! A full cable housing was then run and shifting was ok, but not perfect. It took alot of time and patience to get the derailleur just right (frustrating when adjustments on the bike stand don't translate to the trail:madman:). When I built up the EG a second time (previously had the parts on a Nomad frame I have) I just couldn't get the damn thing to shift good. The hanger was absolutely straight, my XTR rear D was is great shape, and the housing/cable was brand new. I either had ghost shifting or couldn't get the shifting to be smooth across the entire range of the cassette. After a couple rides I started to love the bike:thumbsup: but grew aggravated with the shifting:madmax:. I then read something on these forums that made me think of routing the cable different.
The routing I choose was to run the cable on top of the downtube, below the shock brace, then right above the bottom bracket, and then on top of the chainstay. The cable was held in place with those plastic stick-on cable guides and some zipties.

The results are outstanding:band:
No bulging of cables. No ghost shifting. Just purely great shifting!
 

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RHRF!
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Nice job Chris! I too have had 'ghost-shifting' issues on my EG and I also went the route of drilling out the cable stops... but I still experience some ghosting on the 7/8/9 gears when pedaling through rough terrain. This is a simple and elegant solution! Thanks for the tip!

OT - not to derail this thread, but how are you liking your RC3?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The great thing about it is there is no ghost shifting at all. Before I could get it so it would shift ok on all the low gears on the cassette but when you would get down to the high gears there would be some miss-shifting, vice-versa. Now it is great all over. I got the idea from "gossa" (props to gossa for planting the seed in my brain) when he talked about it on another thread. Because the cable is routed right on top of the main pivot there is no growth as the bike goes through it's compression. This routing should definitely be part of the new EG.

I'm lovin the Push'd Plus! I like it even more than the DHX5 coil I have. I run them both in the coil hole. When push starts doing the MX tune again the DHX will get that.

Chris
 

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J:
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The great thing about it is there is no ghost shifting at all. Before I could get it so it would shift ok on all the low gears on the cassette but when you would get down to the high gears there would be some miss-shifting, vice-versa. Now it is great all over. I got the idea from "gossa" (props to gossa for planting the seed in my brain) when he talked about it on another thread. Because the cable is routed right on top of the main pivot there is no growth as the bike goes through it's compression. This routing should definitely be part of the new EG.

I'm lovin the Push'd Plus! I like it even more than the DHX5 coil I have. I run them both in the coil hole. When push starts doing the MX tune again the DHX will get that.

Chris
Good idea for the new EG, gonna try this. I have my stops drilled also, and full housing w/ cable spitting out the headtube loops. Housing is getting ho'ed.

Couple questions- Did you need extra length when you changed the routing?

Can't quite see how far it sticks out, does your heel hit the cable at all? My protector gets chewed @ there from my heel.
 

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J:
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Almost forgot.. triple ring

Another old shifting issue could be addressed for the new EG.

Every time I come hammering to a steeper incline (w/ triple), the yoke contacts the front D, makes it rub the chain for a good second through the suspension compression.

It used to shift from this. Tried every angle and the best solution I've found that stops this shift is to grind off some steel under the D so it has a smooth ramp when it hits the yoke. The strip of material missing from the yoke now is probably helping a bit too.
 

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You mean the bottom of cage hitting when the front dee is in granny gear?
Yea I have never been able to quite solve it. But for me its only when the rear is bottoming out on hard hits... Guess I'm lucky my weight is not enuf to press it down during climbs...
 

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J:
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You mean the bottom of cage hitting when the front dee is in granny gear?
Yea I have never been able to quite solve it. But for me its only when the rear is bottoming out on hard hits... Guess I'm lucky my weight is not enuf to press it down during climbs...
Yeah, meant to say under side of the cage. I'm not close to bottoming out though, but SLX Mega 9 still works so I've just dealt.

It doesn't happen low speed, only something similar to g out.. when setting up gears to go from high speed to steep ups. I'm not one to stop, just pedal through everything once I time my gear change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Good idea for the new EG, gonna try this. I have my stops drilled also, and full housing w/ cable spitting out the headtube loops. Housing is getting ho'ed.

Couple questions- Did you need extra length when you changed the routing?

Can't quite see how far it sticks out, does your heel hit the cable at all? My protector gets chewed @ there from my heel.
I think I needed a little extra length, not much. My heal doesn't hit the cable, and I'm kinda pigeon toed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Can you guys duplicate the problem by taking the air out of the shock and cycling the suspension? I don't think I've ever had the problem and I'm trying to figure out what piece you are talking about. Any pics?

Chris
 

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Thanks for posting this. I have never liked having three sections of housing for one cable and have been wanting to drill out my cable stops but haven't yet. When I do finally change the housing I am going to try this re-route.
 

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Can you guys duplicate the problem by taking the air out of the shock and cycling the suspension? I don't think I've ever had the problem and I'm trying to figure out what piece you are talking about. Any pics?

Chris
Yup, with air out of shock, its easier to see when u compress it down. Not a major issue I must say for me cos most time if that bike take that kind of a hit to bottom out, its usually in mid ring rather than granny.

I guess it also depends on what front dee is being used as the cage size and thickness of the plate matters. Caught the problem early enough and so on the present xtr 970 dee, its just only touching ever so slightly when bottoming in the granny position after tweaking it to a point where shifting is still not compromised (slightly higher and toed-in to the front). Hence pic only shows very slight deformity of material where it used to hit before..

 

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Nice solution, Chris. But instead of drilling the cable stops maybe there's another solution. I used this:



Its a product by Jagwire, cost only a few bucks. I was able to do a full cable housing route using this without drilling the frame's cable stops . And Full cable really does make a lot of difference to eliminate the ghost shifting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I used something similar like the Jagwire when I had my Switchblade. When I had my Motolite I probably went the drill-out because my Dremel was handy and I had the right bits. Since then I have gotten pretty good at it and when I get a new frame that is the first thing that is done to it. The two guides on the EG toptube were kinda hard because there was something in the way of the Dremel.

Using the plastic cable guides and routing the cable down the downtube and back solves all the problem.

Shazam! I got the little front derailleur rub on my frame too! I took the air out of my shock and compressed it. Sure enough the derailleur starts to rub with about one inch of stroke remaining. I wouldn't think I would use that much travel when I am using the inner chainring but the proof is on the bike. I've never noticed any miss-shifting because of it. Don't really think it's a big thing (It's just like cable rub). I would have never know unless I read it hear.
 

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"El Whatever"
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Just chiming in... this is how Nicolai routes the RD and rear brake cable on the Helius AM and AC bikes. The chainstays have little guides to zip-tie the line to the swingarm. Full length housing, no ghost-shifting.





Also, on my Siwtchblade, I also ran into this thing of the chainstay hitting the FD. I didn't tried it but I learned that Shimano makes different XT/SLX models for reduced chainstay angles. The cage does not drop as much as a normal one and avoids this issue.
 

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RHRF!
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It Works!

I got my EG back from repairs recently and I decided to try the new rear derailleur cable routing. I was consistently ghost-shifting on gears 7-8-9 before the change. Took a fast, flowing constant pedaling single track section last night and I'm happy to report no more ghost-shifting! :thumbsup: Me thinks this is a worthy upgrade to any new EG design.
 

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I got my EG back from repairs recently and I decided to try the new rear derailleur cable routing. I was consistently ghost-shifting on gears 7-8-9 before the change. Took a fast, flowing constant pedaling single track section last night and I'm happy to report no more ghost-shifting! :thumbsup: Me thinks this is a worthy upgrade to any new EG design.
Looks good. I just tried this routing on Brandon's EG a couple weeks ago and its working out great for him too.
 

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I'm really not fond of the proximity to the front derailleur and the potential for damage on the chainstay section.

I thought Shimano Shadow stuff sucked when I first got it because I picked it up when I got my EG frame. So I put a conventional XT derailleur on there with the same result. I've been adjusting for it for 2 years now and to be honest it got better as my chain and sprocket set wore out but I just put on some new stuff (XTR Chain, XT Cassette) and ghost shifting is back in full force...

I doubt I could run the cable around the brake side of the seat tube because of tire clearance and/or to tight of a bend but at least I could run the cable under my chainstay wrap. I dono...I'll think about it, I just did a 55 mile ride for Halloween (ended at 2am with no lights allowed) and it didn't bother me tooo much. Gah, derailleurs...ciao.
 
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