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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey gang - I am interested in getting an eBike. I have been riding my Growler fat bike for about a year and definitely have the biking bug! Issue is, I'm a rather big guy (350lbs). Looking for something I can feel confident riding at my weight. Fat tires is a big preference...since most mtb trails by me don't allow eBikes I would likely stick to road and very tame trails. My hopes is to have another outlet to ride and cover more distance (which is what makes biking fun for me).

Was looking at a Quietkat. Max weight is 325. Any other options? Zize seems a bit out of my budget.
 

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I'd just suggest targeting a geared hub motor bike and make sure to get one with a warranty. Beyond that, stay mindful of using too much throttle to take off from a stop, as that's what generally kills hub driven e-bikes. Overall, the fact that you're talking about tame trails which likely means not significant elevation changes (2%-5%), really a hub motor makes the most sense. Another route, is using a conversion kit from a reliable source such as grin (Home page) which would allow you to source a fatbike, or acceptable 27.5+ bike and add the hub driven kit to it.

Fwiw, I would not suggest a mid drive from a large mfg at your weight. We're likely within about 2 years of those types of drive units being reliable for this much load... close to being there, but not quite. I've done a few DIY ebike kits for people and family members in your weight class and they have turned out pretty nice and the users are pretty happy with them with minimal reliability issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Interesting! I hadn't thought of a conversion. Honestly, I really want the motor for long climbs. If there was an assist only - no throttle option I would do it in a heart beat. Less is more!

Looks like I need to educate myself a bit more on components. I do like the idea of a conversion...maybe with a tank like the dolomite that can handle 500lbs. New rims/spokes etc and I'm in the clear...this opens things up a bit.
 

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One rule of thumb for hub motors. Make sure that for any substantial hill (probably more than a couple of minutes to traverse), you're able to ascend at half the max speed for the bike or too much energy will be absorbed as heat which could fry your engine. That is why many individuals recommend mid-systems for ascending. This is a Dolomite with rear hub and "sidecar" attached (it encompasses a wheelchair for my friend's very challenged granddaughter)
Wheel Bicycle Tire Plant Crankset
.
 

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No; although electric motors are more efficient at high RPM, don't ascend too slowly was the point. So, your system may have a top speed of 20 mph; don't ascend long hills at less than 10 mph because even at that speed, half the battery's energy is being transformed to heat.
 

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Optimal speed up a hill can maximize wh/mile used and reduce heat but if you have lots of hills then a mid drive is optimal over a hub motor but that means more moving parts.
Just the Trip Simulator or Motor Simulator to optimize

More speed = more heat = saturation of motor = could cook motor if not rolled back
I've cooked a few motors in my time like the massive MXUS 45H motor and a bunch of wimpy 500W ebay motors.
I was heavy just like you, actually I weighed at that time more then you, which eats up more wh/mile which means you need a bigger battery or actually have to pedal, or pedal harder.

Long hill climbs means mid drive, if its steep hills then its even more mid drive.
Cyclone-TW or BBSHD or Lightning Rods Big Block or maybe look at what Luna is offering if you cant hook wires together and spin a couple bolts.
 

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My off road bikes are mid-drive because, for me, that is the most acceptable configuration for efficiency, in case of a flat and because the extra weight of the hub wheel makes the ride unacceptable.That "e-chariot" (as I named it) was a hub system because we needed reverse. Currently a front motor is being added.
 

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I am 340lbs and ride a heavily upgraded Trek Rail 7. Bike is amazing and can handle the roughest terrain that I can possibly find.

Bicycle Wheel Tire Bicycle wheel Plant
 

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Wow! Do you have the specs listed anywhere?
Here ya go…2020 Trek Rail 7 -- Trust Performance Shout 178mm linkage fork, 21' Fox DHX2 230x65mm Rear Shock for 169mm rear Travel - Magura MT7 Pro Brakes w 220/203 MDR-P Rotors - Santa Cruz Reserve 30 Wheels DT Swiss hubs - RaceFace NextR Carbon Bars - OneUp V2 210mm Dropper Post - Specialized Power Arc Expert Saddle - Wolftooth Grips - 160mm e13 Cranks - Maxxis 29x2.6” DHF / Specialized Butcher Tires - Crank Brothers Mallet E pedals and a NYON display
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Here ya go…2020 Trek Rail 7 -- Trust Performance Shout 178mm linkage fork, 21' Fox DHX2 230x65mm Rear Shock for 169mm rear Travel - Magura MT7 Pro Brakes w 220/203 MDR-P Rotors - Santa Cruz Reserve 30 Wheels DT Swiss hubs - RaceFace NextR Carbon Bars - OneUp V2 210mm Dropper Post - Specialized Power Arc Expert Saddle - Wolftooth Grips - 160mm e13 Cranks - Maxxis 29x2.6” DHF / Specialized Butcher Tires - Crank Brothers Mallet E pedals and a NYON display
Wow - thanks! I have been interested in an ebike but was concerned about my size...I will certainly be using this as a road map...
 

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I weighed 380lbs and rode ebikes all the time, no big deal. I tell you its a huge relief losing 110lbs, its so much easier to ride ebikes and bicycles now. I just went on the keto diet and forced myself to pedal the ebike and went up at least one hill every single day. In the cold winter, I just walked around malls or up nature stairs.
I just have 20 more pounds to go, but at at 380lbs I pancaked many rear wheels laced with a hub. It wasn't until I went with a front hub motor that the problem went away, but I also tried mid drives like the Cyclone-TW and the BBSHD, but the mxus 45h was a beast of a motor, not sure why I went with the big block of hub motors right from the get go when a simple, lighter Leaf 35h was sufficient for most of my needs. Remember your basic, common, generic, 9c hub motor is 25h and 750-1kw. The H is just the width of the stator laminations, the wider the more power it can handle. The Leaf 1500w at either Leafbike or Leafmotor is the biggest one they got on their website, and its the most efficient hub motor there is. Remember you can limit any motor very easily with a Cycle Analyst or a KT Display type controller/display "PAS" kit and install pedal assist on anything. Like limiting your Ferarri to 20mph if you so wish.
 

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I weighed 380lbs and rode ebikes all the time, no big deal. I tell you its a huge relief losing 110lbs, its so much easier to ride ebikes and bicycles now. I just went on the keto diet and forced myself to pedal the ebike and went up at least one hill every single day. In the cold winter, I just walked around malls or up nature stairs.
I just have 20 more pounds to go, but at at 380lbs I pancaked many rear wheels laced with a hub. It wasn't until I went with a front hub motor that the problem went away, but I also tried mid drives like the Cyclone-TW and the BBSHD, but the mxus 45h was a beast of a motor, not sure why I went with the big block of hub motors right from the get go when a simple, lighter Leaf 35h was sufficient for most of my needs. Remember your basic, common, generic, 9c hub motor is 25h and 750-1kw. The H is just the width of the stator laminations, the wider the more power it can handle. The Leaf 1500w at either Leafbike or Leafmotor is the biggest one they got on their website, and its the most efficient hub motor there is. Remember you can limit any motor very easily with a Cycle Analyst or a KT Display type controller/display "PAS" kit and install pedal assist on anything. Like limiting your Ferarri to 20mph if you so wish.
matt4x4 - I would love to see picture or two of one of your creations :) good luck on the last 20 lbs!
 
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