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OK, I finished tidying up the light this evening. Got a little collet knob from Maplin for the brightness pot, and liberated a Hammond bezel from my microphone battery box - it doesn't need to look pretty :)

Sorry about the dust specks - I should have cleaned the case before its photo call.

Here are some photos which don't need any explanation.





 

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MSXTR.... are you using the 3256 driver with a 7.2 li battery to drive two R-2's? If that is the case, are you running them parallel or in series? Is the driver working well for this application and have you had any issues with it? Hopefully it is working well series.... :)
 

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Spanish biker
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tamen00 said:
MSXTR.... are you using the 3256 driver with a 7.2 li battery to drive two R-2's? If that is the case, are you running them parallel or in series? Is the driver working well for this application and have you had any issues with it? Hopefully it is working well series.... :)
Hi, I have did for now 5 "easy DIY" :D 4 with 3256 driver from DX and 1 with SKU: S002982 from Kaidomain and both work very well. I use this in series with the 7,2 li-ion battery, think you that this batteries, really work to 8,4 volts when are full charged.

Greetins - Saludos

msxtr
 

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Fists of Ham
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Well - thought I'd have a bit of a go at one of these...

To be honest, I'm kind of using up some spare kit i'd got left over from making up a bunch of the DIY Dinotte's for mates in my road club. So - i'd got a few of the old standard 3256 DX Drivers, a couple of Q5's on stars and a range of optics. At the moment my prefered combo is one of the DX 1920's and a Carclo thats a bit wider beam. They're shown below rigged up to my test harness (a bit of stripboard with a DX clicky switch and a LED to tell if it's on or off. I may well use a variation on this to keep the wiring etc tidier in the finished version (mainly as the Hammond box has nice handy slots in there to support the PCB ;) )

At the moment i'm not sure what to use the light as - bar mount or helmet. If It's going on the helmet then it'll have a couple of nice bright red LED's let into the back cover - may as well, after all.



Still a bit of fettling to do - the alu angle's need cutting down to fit the case, the case itself could use a bit of a trim, and i'll have a wee bit of grinding to do on the lens holders to fit them between the mounting screws at the front, but shouldn't be anything stopping me having things up and running pretty soon.:D
 

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Spanish biker
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TheBigYin said:
Well - thought I'd have a bit of a go at one of these...

To be honest, I'm kind of using up some spare kit i'd got left over from making up a bunch of the DIY Dinotte's for mates in my road club. So - i'd got a few of the old standard 3256 DX Drivers, a couple of Q5's on stars and a range of optics. At the moment my prefered combo is one of the DX 1920's and a Carclo thats a bit wider beam. They're shown below rigged up to my test harness (a bit of stripboard with a DX clicky switch and a LED to tell if it's on or off. I may well use a variation on this to keep the wiring etc tidier in the finished version (mainly as the Hammond box has nice handy slots in there to support the PCB ;) )

At the moment i'm not sure what to use the light as - bar mount or helmet. If It's going on the helmet then it'll have a couple of nice bright red LED's let into the back cover - may as well, after all.



Still a bit of fettling to do - the alu angle's need cutting down to fit the case, the case itself could use a bit of a trim, and i'll have a wee bit of grinding to do on the lens holders to fit them between the mounting screws at the front, but shouldn't be anything stopping me having things up and running pretty soon.:D
The right optic it is a carlo optic?? the holder too?? :rolleyes:

Why you use 2 drivers??

Greetings - Saludos

msxtr
 

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Fists of Ham
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msxtr said:
The right optic it is a carlo optic?? the holder too?? :rolleyes:

Why you use 2 drivers??
Well Spotted - the optic is actually one I sourced from Cutter - XLSL-25 Degree - it took so long to be delivered I'd forgotten what i'd ordered!

As to why i've got 2 drivers on there - as I said - they're just strapped to my test harness at the moment - i'll get around to building a dedicated wiring setup when I can be bothered finishing the light, though with arsey comments like yours, i'm not really interested in sharing much further.
 

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TheBigYin said:
As to why i've got 2 drivers on there - as I said - they're just strapped to my test harness at the moment - i'll get around to building a dedicated wiring setup when I can be bothered finishing the light.
I'm getting ready to build one of these lights with a pair of R2's. I want to use a 7.4v Li-Ion battery and thought two drivers (the DX 3256) would be the only practical way to accomplish this.

In a perfect world I'd like to use my collection of 7.4v packs for all my lights, buck the singles and boost the triples. The double, however, has eluded me thus far. I know Scar's Amoeba runs on a 7.4, but, I haven't found out how he does this. If anyone else is using this type of battery (with a double R2), I'd appreciate some driver help. Thanks. :thumbsup:
 

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Fists of Ham
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Well wrench177 - you can be sure that using one 3256 per led will definitely work, and there is enough room in the case to fit two of them - they're only 17mm diameter after all.

I've actually a bunch of different drivers sat in the leftover bits box - one of the Kennan jobs from Kaidomain that'll work with anthing from 4-18v input, but as with most of the buck driver types, it needs a input voltage equal to the Led's total Vf value, plus a bit more (depending on the driver, can be between 1-3+ volts extra.), A nice little 950ma driver board i picked up on fleabay which is pretty much the same as the kennan only it can cope with input voltages of up to 24v and is actually happy powering 4xQ5's , plus a selection of the Multimode DX Jobs which i've tried in DIY Dinotte's, but never really got on with.

I'm in a similar situation, I've got a couple of 7.4v RC Battery packs and a 6v pack left over from a old electron lights set, and to be honest, I want any light I build to be capable of running with any of the battery. If that means that I need to buy boost drivers like the Fatman or MaxFlex3, for my multiple emitter lights, then so be it.

Though the more I think about it, the more likely it will be that i'll slap a couple of the 3256's in this particular light - if only because it seems to wind up msxtr for some unknown reason;)
 

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TheBigYin said:
I'm in a similar situation, I've got a couple of 7.4v RC Battery packs and a 6v pack left over from a old electron lights set, and to be honest, I want any light I build to be capable of running with any of the battery. If that means that I need to buy boost drivers like the Fatman or MaxFlex3, for my multiple emitter lights, then so be it.

Though the more I think about it, the more likely it will be that i'll slap a couple of the 3256's in this particular light - if only because it seems to wind up msxtr for some unknown reason;)
That's my thought as well. I could build up a bunch of different battery packs for different lights, but, I like the "one battery for all lights" Dinotte approach. Besides, I have 4 different 7.4 Li-Ion packs now and I'd hate to add another battery into the rotation.

The 3256's are small and cheap. Two will easily fit into a Hammond box and I don't have to worry about skirting the "direct drive" envelope.

Thanks for the confirmation. I appreciate the help.
 

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Fists of Ham
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Couldn't resist it - made one up with double drivers - it's not actually finished - the LED's are fixed and all the heatsinking etc. is sorted, but the case is still at full length, and the switches and status led at the back still need securing to the end cap. Other than that, it's working pretty much okay.







(shown here sitting on the unfinished body of a DIY Dinotte :D )
 

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I just built a light very similar to yours (but different case) with 2 R-2's and a single DX 3256 driver, running off 7.2 V lithium packs. It seems to work pretty well, however there is dimming. With my runtime test I used a 2200 mah pack. It ran for 2:15 before I noticed it started to dim (I was comparing to another light periodically to be able to tell difference), and then the protection circuit shut off the light at 2:55 minutes...

I actually like this a little better this way because I have a little reserve before the light just shuts off. I will be running these with a 4400 mah pack, so I should get close to 4 hours of usable light, which is plenty because I have a lot of the batteries!
 

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I built exactly the same light a month or so ago and used two cheap DX drivers. These drivers only worked up to 8.4V so i figured I did not have enough voltage to drive both LEDs and the extra driver gives a bit of a backup should the driver fail for some reason. I used the 120 mm Hammond case so that could cut into two and still have a bit of extra room for drivers and wiring. It works very well with a simple clicky switch from a DW torch. I might glue some velcro to the bottom of a second Easy build and just slap it on top of the other one so i have 4 LEDs for rides requiring a bit more light and just have a Y splitter to the lights.

I used the DX 10 degree optics on the first build and they give a nice beam but a bit tight for the handlebar. I have some Carclo optics that I will try on my next build.

It's tempting to follow in Troutie's footsteps and cram in a bunch of XP-E and 10mm optics but i doubt that the heat sinking capacity of the Hammond case is not good enough for more than 3-4 LED's.

For a bar clamp i used a BLT clamp with quick release which I just bolted on. I have some Cateye parts on order and am planning on sticking to that model for the rest of my builds so I can easily swap the light heads around.
 

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There is a simpler solution to the problem of 2 leds in series and a 2cell lion pack. Just use a constant current regulator board with more output and put the leds in parallel. There are a few good options out there for 1400 or 1500ma and even a few at 2A. Check out this websitehttp://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/index.php?cPath=48_49_61 I have used some of there drivers before. I would think the new 2A shark buck would work out very well. All the boards from this site are tiny and high quality with published efficiency numbers.

Of course an even better solution is to use a boost regulator and run 6 xp-e led from a single 7.2v pack. If you wire it as two parallel strings of 3 leds and run it at 700ma each led will only see 350ma. This would give 600+ lumens, less heat, and more run time than two cree xr-e or ssc p4 at 1A.

6 xp-e at 350ma each is only 6.6 watts of power. Two leds at 1A could be as much as 7.2 watts. At 350ma 6 xp-e R2 are cranking out 114 lumen each, so 684. At best 2 led at 1A are 480-500lumen.
 

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Fists of Ham
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wkumtrider said:
TheBigYin, what battery connector are you using on your new light? Thanks!
It's a panel-mount 2.1mm Single-Hole-Fixing DCSocket, that I sourced from Maplin.

Not the best of connectors by any means, but as that's whats on the end of the Electron bottle battery i've been using, I seem to have standardised on these for the moment.
 

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bikerjay said:
There is a simpler solution to the problem of 2 leds in series and a 2cell lion pack....(snip)....I would think the new 2A shark buck would work out very well. All the boards from this site are tiny and high quality with published efficiency numbers.
Yeah - but they are $29 for a 2A shark, plus shipping to the UK - this was a cheap build to use up leftover parts - the 2x3256's were in the spares box already and didn't entail any further expenditure - as were all the other bits except the Case - £5.49 - again from my local Maplin.

Those shark drivers do look pretty interesting though - i'm trying not to start any more projects this winter though - i've plenty of lights to see me through the rest of the dark months, and who know's where the state of the art will be by next year.
 

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TheBigYin said:
Yeah - but they are $29 for a 2A shark, plus shipping to the UK - this was a cheap build to use up leftover parts - the 2x3256's were in the spares box already and didn't entail any further expenditure - as were all the other bits except the Case - £5.49 - again from my local Maplin.

Those shark drivers do look pretty interesting though - i'm trying not to start any more projects this winter though - i've plenty of lights to see me through the rest of the dark months, and who know's where the state of the art will be by next year.
which one on the maplin website? my brains seriously not working right now :madman:
 

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SkUG said:
which one on the maplin website? my brains seriously not working right now :madman:
The Black one like I used is product code N78AL - the silver one is N74AL and is 20p cheaper.
 

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I've aboarded this Easy DIY train, too. Light shining out of three Cree XR-E R2, Polymer Optics lenses, maxFlex current regulator.


Meet the triples. Beside mine, I've made one for my son and one for his friend.


Weight: 100g exactly.


I'm delighted with the outcome. It's small, it's cute and it realy shines on the trails!


More pictures from the building process here
 
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