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pretty much setup as far as machinery goes. most likely will cut it by clamping it down and using the dropsaw [fine tooth, negetive rake blade for aluminium work] then avoiding the use of the beltsander.

drilling the front panel is going to be the challenge. i may end up making a jig to sit over the whole panel and use a laminate trimmer with a 3mm cutter and a guide collar. not sure as yet. i want it to be as tidy as possible. so i will be taking my time with it thats for sure.
 

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Hi, I decided done another similar light, but a little more big, with more big optics to get a angle higher, I hope that like us :)

This work with 2 seouls P4 U-bin and 2 optics of "in theory" of 30mm of diameter custom cut, with 1 driver of 800ma. The housing are a Hammond of length 120mm x width 78mm X height 27mm cut by the middle (60mmX78mmX27mm)











Beamshot from the wall, about 1 meter



Greetings - Saludos

msxtr
 

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nice, i like it. The Hammond box makes for an easy and tidy light.

The bigger box size would probably be better for the square optics i have.

i am still sourcing CATEYE helmet and spacer before i begin on mine.
 

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Spanish biker
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Jvan_wert said:
Awsome light props to CK. What kind (volts/ amp hours) of battery(s) are you all using and what is the run time?
Hi, I use a camcorder battery of (theoretically) 7,2 volts, but really give 8,4 volts and 6000 mah. The driver work to 800 ma. I don't know the total run time, but at least 4 hours test for my.

Greetings - Saludos

msxtr
 

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Keeping this thread alive, I have also embarked on an Easy DIY light. I followed Troutie's advice and got hold of a couple of Ledil optics, which nicely fill the frontal area of the small Hammond case. I'm driving it with a 1A Luxdrive BuckPuck from a pack of 8 x 2800 mAH NiMH cells from 7DayShop. I didn't cut the case down because it's going on my bars, so size isn't such an issue. For my helmet I made a short Dinotte style light, shown in another thread.

Overall view showing the guts with lots of spare wire (don't want to cut the BuckPuck leads in case I want to reuse it elsewhere.


The LEDs, mounted on a piece of 20mm U-section aluminium. This is currently an interference fit, but I will screw it in place once I'm happy that all is well.



Finally a front view with the optics in place. The front cover, a piece of 2mm acrylic, is taped in place until I get around to drilling the mounting holes.



Performance-wise, it lights up the back garden beautifully :)

I shall fit an Electron (reasonably) quick release mount. They are much the same as those fitted to the Vista lights I modified, and I like the design. They are also available very cheaply as spares. I'm not fussed about fully weather-proofing it, being somewhat of a fair-weather rider :eek:
 

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Hi Neil, that is a very clean looking build. Did you get the hammond box with the metal ends or the plastic ones? I ask because my "metal ends" 1455 series box (which is slightly wider) has a plastic bezel that would probably work well for the front (the metal plate is just a flat insert). Here is what I am referring to (there is plexi sandwiched between the bezel and the case):



Good idea on the battery pack, it should be light and keep it running for over a couple hours. I have read and seen firsthand (lost some cells) that the hi-cap NiMh cells require topping off, even if they are not used since they have a pretty decent self discharge rate. There are some lower capacity NiMh cells like eneloops which have a low self discharge rate, but they are more expensive usually. On my NiMh cells I usually try to get them on the charger once a month to keep em in shape.
 

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HuffyPuffy said:
Hi Neil, that is a very clean looking build. Did you get the hammond box with the metal ends or the plastic ones? I ask because my "metal ends" 1455 series box (which is slightly wider) has a plastic bezel that would probably work well for the front (the metal plate is just a flat insert). Here is what I am referring to (there is plexi sandwiched between the bezel and the case):

Good idea on the battery pack, it should be light and keep it running for over a couple hours. I have read and seen firsthand (lost some cells) that the hi-cap NiMh cells require topping off, even if they are not used since they have a pretty decent self discharge rate. There are some lower capacity NiMh cells like eneloops which have a low self discharge rate, but they are more expensive usually. On my NiMh cells I usually try to get them on the charger once a month to keep em in shape.
The black box from Maplin is plastic ended unfortunately. I have used the metal ended one previously, but it's clear anodised and I wanted black. I don't think it looks too bad without the bezel though. Just need a little more trimming of the front cover - I'm thinking that a chamfer on the inner edge could take a very small bead of silicon for sealing.

A couple of hours run time should be fine for me. I'm mostly commuting at the moment, and it's only a half hour home. I charge my NiMH cells before use as a matter of habit, so the self discharge isn't really a problem. Mind you, I found a reasonably priced supplier of the Eneloops on Ebay UK and I might try a set.
 

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That may work, you will need to run the emitters in parallel. It may be a bit unwieldy since you need to have the helmet and bar lights connected to the driver, connected to the battery. You will also loose any redundancy if there is a problem with the system. You could also build a triple for the bars with this driver and add a helmet light later, that would allow the driver to be put into the light head and give each emitter about 900ma. The P7 driver is basically designed to drive 4 emitters at 700ma each since the P7 is just 4 emitters in one package.

< removed this part after a second thought - not an economical suggestion since you already have the driver ordered >

I also wanted to point out (and I hope this is not a buzzkill) but the emitters you have chosen are a couple generations behind what most are using. Basically P4 < Q5 < R2 for Cree emitters. The P4's will still be plenty bright for a basic light. You can find some decent prices on Cree Q5's and R2's at Dealextreme.com, and they may also have suitable drivers and optics. You may find that copying another proven design (including the drivers) will be simpler.
 

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HuffyPuffy: i like what you a saying, i'll keep the design simple and build a triple for the bars to start with, its my first light build, and honestly i don't know what im doing, so its a learning experience.

Ive been trying to find a complete shopping list, for a light, but when i do, their is always one or two bits i can't find. (if you wan't, i would appreciate such shopping list, with links etc.)

But i have to start somewhere, and might aswell be with some of the cheapest part's so the wife won't kill me, if its burns to piece's. When i learn more, the R2's will come into play, and i might even order some soon, so that i have the parts to keep playing around.

With the formentioned light setup, how big of a battery can i run on it (3 XR-E's and P7 driver)?
 

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Hi BaMzE. The battery depends on the driver, which appears from the description to take a "5.5V~15V" input though they do not explicitly state it. There is not much info on that driver though I did see some discussion of a similar board here and here. I think you could probably put together a pack with AA NiMh cells and holders (like NeilT's pack above), and if it behaves like the other KD board, the current draw will go down with a higher voltage pack - otherwise I am not sure how well the cells will hold up to a high current draw. If you do not have a multimeter it would be a good investment for this hobby, especially with a driver such as this with some unknowns. I'm sure somebody else can comment on a battery suggestion for your driver. I would not use L-ion unless you can get a commercial pack that is capable (current and capacity wise) or really know what you are doing since there are real dangers with L-ion cells (and please never solder to batteries since they could be shorted with just a small blob of runaway solder - trust me on this :eek: ).

A lot of the parts such as cheap no name optics and drivers will be trial and error unless somebody else has already reviewed them. If you buy name brand stuff (Ledil, Polymer Optics, Calrco) you will usually pay a good deal more, but can often get a datasheet beforehand so you know what to order - or see beamshots in this forum or on candlepowerforums.com from other users. If you want to go the safe route with name brand components I suggest checking cutter (even if you don't buy from them they are a good resource - though they are also the only place to get many things).

A good place to start looking for cheap parts is at the DX flashlights DIY section here. Unlike KD, there are plenty of reviews of the parts at DX so you can get an idea of what may work - often DX (and KD for that matter) do not provide info on what optics work with what type of LED's (SSC, Cree, Luxeon) - so it is up to their customers to figure it out (this is where the reviews and discussion forums help).

If you are looking for a different driver, I would go with something that will drive the emitters in series since it seems simpler to find batteries (it seems easier to find cheap high voltage packs with decent capacity than it is to find lower voltage high capacity packs - I may be misinformed on this however).

I have been sticking with wired 1000ma buckpucks (3023-D-E-1000) with an external pot since they seem simple and reliable - and they are potted in a plastic resin so I can be less careful in how I place them in the case (they won't short). The downside is that they are not the cheapest (about $15 - ledsupply.com, luxeonstar.com and mouser.com sell 'em) - I could get several DX drivers for the same price, it is just a bunch of tradeoffs. Everyone seems to have their favorite driver, it is just a matter of finding something that works and is the right price.

Once you have the drivers, emitters and battery picked out, the rest is where you can get creative and either make it really expensive (my forte, though I am trying to reform my ways) or cleverly inexpensive. Good luck!
 

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BaMzE said:
Hi guys

Just ordered from kaidomain.
2 X CREE XR-E P3/P4 LED
But ended up getting a KD MC-E P7 LED Driver will those work together?
Driver: http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=5595
Cree: http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1599

I can't find any drivers on kaidomain that will fit the cree xr-e.
Help ?
They have plenty of drivers that will work. I think you are a little mistaken, drivers are not LEDs specific like optics are. A driver that will work for a Cree XR-E will also do for a Luxeon lll or a SSC P4 as long as the max current the LED can endure is not exceeded.

If I misinterpreted your thoughts, please disregard this comment.
 

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BaMzE said:
Hi guys

Just ordered from kaidomain.
2 X CREE XR-E P3/P4 LED
But ended up getting a KD MC-E P7 LED Driver will those work together?
Driver: http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=5595
Cree: http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1599

I can't find any drivers on kaidomain that will fit the cree xr-e.
Help ?
Thats A P7 driver putting out 2.8A and XR-Es have a 1A max so best you don't get these two guys together.

Try something like:
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=5313 or
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1801
You might want to get the 5 packs because you'll need two and often the drivers from Kai/Dx don't work.
Each driver runs one LED. For good multi led driver look elsewhere.

Also the LED you ordered is a low bin p3/p4 look for Q5 at least, they are much brighter (40% more light) and just a few dollars more.
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1803
 

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BaMzE said:
Ive been trying to find a complete shopping list, for a light, but when i do, their is always one or two bits i can't find. (if you wan't, i would appreciate such shopping list, with links etc.)
I did a full shopping list for my last build here http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=473445 with all suppliers hyper linked.

If this is your first build then don't be daunted by my build process or the LEDs I used. Cutter also sell a complete range of Cree leds, from the ones you have bought all the way through to the newer MC-E and R2 XP-E, just follow the link and then browse.

Just search through threads on here till you find a build you think you can manage and then use what ever leds you can.

BTW you don't want to be sharing a battery and driver between a helmet light and a bar light because
- you are then permanently attached to the bike, if you crash, something will break
- if something goes wrong you loose all your lights
- generally speaking drivers work better closer to your lights, no voltage or current loss because of long runs etc.

Good luck, have fun, and try not to get hooked like the rest of us
 

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Emu26: Thanks for the list, i'll look into that some more. Don't care that much about price, as long, as its still way cheaper than the lights on the market. And if that stuff works for you, it will work for me. When learning you have to pay a fair amount of money, and at some point something is bound to go PUFF :thumbsup:

i will cancel the sharing battery and driver part, as you say something will go broke if its done impropper.

Huffy Puffy: i already have the tools i need, multimeter, soldering iron etc. Ive been doing electronics on airsoft for some time, altough it cannot compare to this.

Regarding battery's i was thinking of usin Li-Po battery's, since you can get them with 3.7Volt- 7.4volt - 11.1 etc. 5000mah without paying alot of money.
 
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