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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I stumbled across this case the other day, the internal dimensions are just perfect for a twin LED.

Rectangle Metal Parallel Technology Aluminium


I assembled together the parts I would need and cut the case in half, made a star plate from some angle alloy, drilled the holes in the front bezel and cut out a bit of clear plastic from an helmet visor.

Circuit component Electronic component Technology Passive circuit component Floor


In this picture a couple of holes have been drilled in the back bezel for the switch and cable entry and the buckpuck bonded in place and wired in.

Cable Electrical wiring Wire Technology Electric blue


Stars have been wired in and the assembly is ready to be slid in to the case.

Toy Wire Toy vehicle Plastic Synthetic rubber


With the rear bezel in place and star plate attached the 2 optics and their holders simply slide into place.

Automotive lighting Headlamp Light Metal Automotive light bulb


OK, theres quite a few holes to drill but the stars could probably be bonded in place, the star plate still need attaching to the case, you need to cut the case down to size and drill the holes for the optics, switch and cable, still nothing that can be done with the most basic of tools.
 

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Yea i saw that photo on the Hammond website as well. Great stuff here, this the next classic diy light I think! Some other cool stuff on the Hammond site worth mentioning, cast aluminum end plates, and translucent polycarbonate end plates are also available, with IP65 rated gaskets to seal it up. Another cool thing from Hammond I just saw was cable glands that are also IP65 rated. I wonder what the weight of the sealed IP65 rated enclosure is. This could easily become the first DIY light on here that I know of to be not just water and dust resistant but submergeable. I would think that one could use arctic silver adhesive to attach the star plate and avoid drilling those two holes in the case and using an IP65 rated switch would do the trick. FYI Digikey is a Hammond, distributor and they also sell a huge variety of switches and connectors. I dont even need another light but I am not totally happy with how my first attempt turned out and this design is just awesome, so tempting.
 

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bikerjay said:
...this design is just awesome, so tempting.
I agree. This seems a very effective housing for an off-the-shelf item.

The available closure options from the extruded screw "holes" seals the deal for me...especially because it allows for buying long and slicing for multiple lights.
 

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Nice one citizen kane . so nice I have just been into Maplins for a nosey around and came out with not one but 2 boxes . the small one will make 2 ace helmet lights .

but my main build is going to be like this



I have 6 cree R2 leds and various of the cutter triple optics

and 1 maxflex

I will post some pics when the thing starts taking shape.

Thanks for the idea CK
 

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Bandolero
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Nice project

troutie-mtb said:
Nice one citizen kane . so nice I have just been into Maplins for a nosey around and came out with not one but 2 boxes . the small one will make 2 ace helmet lights .

but my main build is going to be like this



I have 6 cree R2 leds and various of the cutter triple optics and 1 maxflex
That looks like quite the torch. Are those separate emitters or two 3 LED boards from Cutter?
 

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Hi Bruce hows it going with your housing , I bet you are waiting to see what cree are upto in the near future it sounds like something will be out soon .

They are 2 cutter triples that I got for a (mate ? ) who then said he didnot want them not R2 though , I am saving them for something else,

now I am wondering how to remove the heat from the housing .

Trout
 

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Bandolero
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to R2 or not to R2, R4 is the question...

troutie-mtb said:
Hi Bruce hows it going with your housing , I bet you are waiting to see what cree are upto in the near future it sounds like something will be out soon .

They are 2 cutter triples that I got for a (mate ? ) who then said he did not want them not R2 though , I am saving them for something else,

now I am wondering how to remove the heat from the housing .
I was looking at that housing last night when I saw a posting about the Seoul P7.

I'm still undecided on whether to go with a 3 or 4 Cree. I think I'll hold off on a purchase for that until Sept or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I tried to make my case as waterproof as possible, the switch is sealed, the cable entry is a 4 mm banana plug panel socket drilled out to fit the cable, back potted with epoxy and finally sealed with adhesive lined heatshrink. Each end plate is sealed with a silicone rubber gasket cut from 0.5mm thick sheet. I reality I dont think the plastic end caps are ridged enough to compress the gasket material adequately. I think the light would survive a quick dip but no more. It may be the alloy ends would allow you to engineer a more effective seal.

UpRocks - yes the case is nominally 80*54*23, the 20mm internal dimension isnt that well controlled, the extrusion process seems to leave a slight bow in the alloy so its a bit over 20 in the middle. In fact after bolting down the star plate with the 2 M3 screws I could still see daylight between the case and the plate, not to much of a problem since I needed to add a M4 screw in the middle to hold the cateye mount but this may cause problems if you wanted to bond the star plate to the case. If you willing to squeeze things in tight you should be able to just get away with a 39 mm long case so 2 lights from one full case. I could find a supply of just end plates in the UK so I went for 40 mm instead.

I should mention that the optics and holders are from Carclo and the dimensions in the drawing assume your using these and Seoul Leds.

Like I said, cooling is marginal, ultimatly I want to fit an NTC thermistor to the star plate to wind back the current if things get a bit hot.

I wish I brought the black case as well, thats life.
 

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I have been a bit of a copy cat :nono: I hope you dont mind Citizen Kane It looked such an easy way for a light.





parts list is

the ali box as above ( cheers CK )
2 cree R2 leds
1 ledil smooth spot optic
1 ledil oval optic
1 taskled maxflex
1 small piece of aluminium for the heatsink .



At the moment it is running off 4 AA Ni Mh rechargeables with the maxflex set at 750ma
the batteries are 2400 mah .

I just need a front lens cover

This is an ace little light I am well pleased with how it has turned out :thumbsup:
 

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Troutie please tell us that light took longer than 2 days from whoa to go. Or please tell us you're been up all night, twice :eek:
Seriously this looks quite tidy.

Very nice both of you guys!!!
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Nice light, well I would say that wouldnt I.

Again, I'm amazed how quikly you got this together.

How did you get on with the alloy end plates, are they a good fit.

What are you going to do for a mount.

I used the cateye base plate. I think a only paid about 70 pence from wiggle and it fits there handlebar and helmet mounts.

Cable Wire Electrical supply Plastic
 

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Znomit. I really must get out riding more but the trails are more like swamps at the mo

I spotted this post and the same day was passing maplins so got the boxes I allready had all the other ingredients and to be fair it is a dead easy build . the only problem I had was with the ledil optics and they needed .75 mm sanding off to fit the box. total build time over 2 evenings about 6 hours.it is not finished as it needs a lens cover making ,

I am going to use the lens from a pair of safety googles and cut to the same shape as the endplate.

it also needs waterproofing .

Citizen Kane - the alloy endplates are a very good fit and suited my build very well

it is going to be mainly a helmet light and I thought I would use some velcro for the mount

I wish now I had got the black one and the longer one then there would be enough for 2 lights .

As I posted earlier I am still thinking about the double triple light but the heat is the major problem :confused: :confused: :confused:
 
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