Looking to build up my new frame when it comes in and I would like to get some feedback about the Havens. How bombproof are they... I ride pretty aggressively (fast, table-tops, 5' drops, etc.) and living on the east coast there are a lot of rocks, it would be great to here how they're holding up for those running them. Also any one running the I9 AM wheelset, if so how are those?
Easton Havens????
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here's a nice sized thread to describe some experiences with the Haven's. It almost has a plot, with a good opening, conflict, sub-plots, suspense, and an ending that ties it all together!
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=572397
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=572397
If you are even thinking about doing carbon wheels don't half a$$ it and go with the edge composites all mountain rims. I have had nothing but praise for mine that are now a year and a half old. I have raced xc on them, done days of downhilling at highland mountain on them, ridden street on them, done cruiser bmx races on them, and 10 hour trail rides. Needless to say they haven't had a easy life, but the edge wheels have taken all the abuse without a whimper and have required zero maintenance over the course of their life.
I also wouldn't like to roll the dice with easton's hubs again, I have seen their road hubs crap out on a regular basis.
FYI I live in western mass, and ride like an idiot haha
Matt
I also wouldn't like to roll the dice with easton's hubs again, I have seen their road hubs crap out on a regular basis.
FYI I live in western mass, and ride like an idiot haha
Matt
my initial impressions are not very good.
In the box I only got 1 tubless valve stem so Im only running the front wheel right now.
mounted it on the bike, the front is slightly out of true. so much for "sonically trued by hand" marketing BS. even my super cheap WTB machine built wheels came dead straight and true out of the box.
the front hub is loose and has more play than the wheel it is replacing (which is why I bought the Havens in the first place)
When I stand and pedal they flex and brake rotor rubs, and it also sounds like the spokes graze the caliper (which never happened with my cheap and light mavic 317)
very dissapointed with this expensive "all mountain" wheel
I should have just bought some hope hoops like I had planned.
In the box I only got 1 tubless valve stem so Im only running the front wheel right now.
mounted it on the bike, the front is slightly out of true. so much for "sonically trued by hand" marketing BS. even my super cheap WTB machine built wheels came dead straight and true out of the box.
the front hub is loose and has more play than the wheel it is replacing (which is why I bought the Havens in the first place)
When I stand and pedal they flex and brake rotor rubs, and it also sounds like the spokes graze the caliper (which never happened with my cheap and light mavic 317)
very dissapointed with this expensive "all mountain" wheel
I should have just bought some hope hoops like I had planned.
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Well maybe as a consolation Easton is supposed to have good customer service.
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So far my set have been pretty bomber. Suprisingly so as I definitely had some apprehensions given the number of spokes vs. weight of them.
There's a bit of incorrect info going on in another forum (Ibis) about the correct and proper way to adjust the rear pre-load, so I spoke to an Easton tech (Scott Junker) last week and he set the record straight: If for some reason your rear pre-load adjuster comes loose and your rear hub develops a bit of play Easton recommends making the adjustment with the wheel on the bike with a open end box wrench rather than removing the end caps and tearing into the hub to make the adjustment. And you shouldn't be using Lock-tite, etc... on them to stave this off. Apparently there have been 3 different versions of the pre-load adjuster so far and if you have the wrong/old one I'm sure they would mail you out a replacement no questions asked (besides where to ship it).
I have yet to huck this wheelset and I probably never will, but I haven't felt the need to hold back at all with them. The rear developed a minor jump finally that required an 8th of turn of one nipple in a truing stand.
My guess is that if you're looking at these wheels to get all Josh Bender on, you're going to be disappointed. But they ride and feel light. The hubs roll fast and free. I won't say they're as bomber as my old EX1750's but they are just as easy to service as a pair of Kings-minus all the expensive tools.
There's a bit of incorrect info going on in another forum (Ibis) about the correct and proper way to adjust the rear pre-load, so I spoke to an Easton tech (Scott Junker) last week and he set the record straight: If for some reason your rear pre-load adjuster comes loose and your rear hub develops a bit of play Easton recommends making the adjustment with the wheel on the bike with a open end box wrench rather than removing the end caps and tearing into the hub to make the adjustment. And you shouldn't be using Lock-tite, etc... on them to stave this off. Apparently there have been 3 different versions of the pre-load adjuster so far and if you have the wrong/old one I'm sure they would mail you out a replacement no questions asked (besides where to ship it).
I have yet to huck this wheelset and I probably never will, but I haven't felt the need to hold back at all with them. The rear developed a minor jump finally that required an 8th of turn of one nipple in a truing stand.
My guess is that if you're looking at these wheels to get all Josh Bender on, you're going to be disappointed. But they ride and feel light. The hubs roll fast and free. I won't say they're as bomber as my old EX1750's but they are just as easy to service as a pair of Kings-minus all the expensive tools.
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