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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been searching for this information for some time, to no avail.
My rear wheel has developed some play, and I'm wondering how to fix it , the manual doesn't seem to cover it in detail .

Can anyone tell me how you adjust the hubs of the Easton Haven wheels - do I have to remove or loosen the axle first, or can I just tighten the bearing adjuster without touching anything else ?

Thanks in advance !
 

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Search this site. That "play" has been a common issue, and I am under the impression that it is there to stay. Been a lot of threads on this very topic, and the last one I kept up with ended with Easton saying the play was tolerable and just a fact you will have to deal with. Maybe I am wrong, but loose rear hubs on Easton Havens is an issue talked about on here for some time.
 

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Trail Hessian
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can't speak for the Haven, but...

I have the XC One's, and I too have the loosening problem. It can be adjusted on the bike, the disc side bearing cover/end cap or whatever it's called has a + and - with arrows. There are two small holes that are probably meant for a spanner wrench but I didn't have the right size so I used a small allen wrench to turn towards the +. This will take up the play, but it works loose almost every ride for me. It only takes 10 seconds to fix, but it's annoying.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies.
I've been reading through a couple of long Haven threads, just didn't find the info on how to adjust the hubs .

I assume you need to at least loosen the quick release skewer before adjusting the hub ?
 

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Trail Hessian
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I don't recall for sure...

but I think you can tighten it with the skewer clamped down. It might be a little stiff but you should be able to turn it. Give it a try.

The good news is, you don't have to stick an allen wrench in and tighten the end cap, which will strip out and require a vice grips to remove it. Don't ask me how I know this...
 

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Easiest way is to do it while the wheels on the bike, just take a wrench and put it on the 2 flat spots of the adjuster and turn it towards the +
 

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I have about 75 miles on my new Havens and I dig them but I too have just a very slight amount of play. I have turned it towards the + on the adjuster a full turn and the wheel still spins free but the slight play is still there. I there any chance of damage if you keep adjusting to the + mine got to a point to where is takes a little force to keep it moving so I don't want to keep going.

Am I safe to keep tightening as long as the wheel keeps spinning freely? Or is a slight amount of play acceptable and don't worry about it.
 

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Its better if you take off the wheel and spin the axle by hand to make sure there is not a lot of friction. Most of all, make sure your skewer or through axle is very tight with no issues. Start with the qucik release or axle first and see if that takes away your play
 

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Thanks Yody, now that you say that it reminds me of someone else saying they switched to a Mavic skewer or something like that which solved the problem. Are there any particular skewers that are know for a particularly good snug fit? It's for my Tracer VP if that matters. I've seen the DT's have a slightly different kind of locking mechanism but don't know much about them.
 

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Re skewers: Switch out the nylon cam for a brass one from Hope.
Or just buy some good skewers...anything Shimano, DT Swiss RWS, Mavic.

I doubt skewers are your problem though. One whole turn is a lot, which probably means it had a fair bit of play before and the axle could have been damanged even in 75miles. No amount of tightening will remove all play if the axle is slightly worn.

There is a number like M120 or M121 on your hubshell. If it is M121 then your hub can be converted to a reverse thread adjuster. Ring Easton and they'll send it to you. This includes a new axle.

If it's M120 it can't be converted. Pull the axle out, if it looks slightly worn get a new axle from Easton. When putting it all back together use loctite on the adjuster threads not grease.
 

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Its better if you take off the wheel and spin the axle by hand to make sure there is not a lot of friction.

I just took my wheel off to see what it felt like off the bike. The hub spins freely but there is about 2mm of lateral play in the hub. With it off the bike I don't see how you could adjust it because the whole axle just spins - is there a way to tighten it off the bike?

How do you tell if the axle has been damaged? I would find that hard to believe with just a few pretty mellow rides on them.
 

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I doubt the axle is damaged. Hold the other side of the axle with a open end wrench or something that won't gouge it then turn the adjuster to take out all the play but not create too much friction/notchiness and put back on the bike and test.

Shimano XT skewers are known to be very good, if you want the best get the ratchet type DT Swiss RWS.
 

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To adjust the hub off the bike put a 5mm allen key into one of the axle end caps to prevent the axle from turning then use your 20mm cone wrench to turn the preload ring.

The axle is tapered. If ridden loose the tapered section can move inline with the bearing and vertical (kind of rocking) play will wear the axle. You'll easily be able to tell as the axle is anodised. If it's worn the colour will be gone. If this is the case then despite adjusting the hub correctly you will always be able to feel some 'play', it just won't be lateral like usual.

To pull the hub apart use two 5mm allen keys in each end cap and remove one end cap. If the non-drive end cap comes off then just remove the preload adjuster and slide the axle/freehub body out. You'll see no colour in a section of the axle if it's worn.

If the drive side end cap comes off first you'll have to remove the freehub body, steady the axle with an 8mm allen key from the drive side and remove the non drive end cap. Then continue as above.
 

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Good advice, I've been running the 12mm/20MM TA setup for awhile, forgot about using the allen wrench on the skewer hubs. Just to add what was written above, make sure you use a good crisp allen wrench. If you don't use a good fitting one with sharp edges it will be really easy to round off the hex, and then it becomes a pain to adjust.
 

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Thanks a bunch for the info everyone. I did as suggested with the allen wrench and everything seemed to snug up perfectly. I think I was just having a massive brain fart before and didn't realize the whole thing was turning on my when I was trying to tighten it down. Feels rock solid now.
 
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