After doing my first oil change on my DVO Sapphire 34 the rebound knob won't turn when it's tightened down. The knob still turns by hand and I can feel the detents when I'm tightening it. According to the DVO video, after tightening it down I should be able to turn the knob CC to reset to full fast. I thought it was worth a shot posting on here because DVO is closed and I had four big days of riding planned. I should have waited until next week.
DVO Sapphire rebound knob stuck after oil change
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Did you find the problem ? I have the same
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I'd be very curious to hear from any of the three of you (or anyone else) who had this issue and got it fixed. I just got my Onyx back from its first servicing at my LBS and it has this same problem, the rebound adjuster is stuck - at full open, from what I can tell by how the fork feels. My guess is their tech hasn't worked on a lot of DVO forks.
I'm bringing it back to them tomorrow and I'm sure they'll get it sorted eventually but with how slammed they are these days, it might be a lot easier if I went in there already knowing what the fix is so I can just tell them instead of them having to figure it out or call DVO.
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Notice which direction the rebound adjuster is stuck (in this case, fast/open). Remove the bottom nut/rebound adjuster, use a 4mm allen to turn adjuster in the opposite direction of the way it is stuck a few clicks (in this case, slower/closed). I went a full 2.5 turns, to set the adjuster in the middle of its range. Reinstall the bottom nut, taking care to that the rebound knob turns freely as you tighten to spec.
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Since I found this thread on Google when searching for a solution, I am posting up a bit more information even though it is a bit old.
iherchenroder's comment is correct. When I pulled the rebound nut back off I figured out that the reason that this happens is because the internal rebound adjustment gets turned as we unscrew or screw the bottom nut on the damper side (the nut under the rebound knob).
In my case, the rebound knob was stuck fully clockwise and could not be turned in either direction, the internal rebound adjustment was seized at the end of its range because the adjustment was being turned as I tightened the bottom nut. To fix this I had to unbolt the bottom nut, stick an allen key into the damper, and turn it counter clockwise to break the rebound adjustment free. It actually took a bit of forcing and let out a squeak sound. Then, once it was free, I reattached the bottom nut and started to screw it in, every few turns of the nut I would turn the knob counter clockwise a few clicks to prevent it from getting seized at the end of its range.
iherchenroder's comment is correct. When I pulled the rebound nut back off I figured out that the reason that this happens is because the internal rebound adjustment gets turned as we unscrew or screw the bottom nut on the damper side (the nut under the rebound knob).
In my case, the rebound knob was stuck fully clockwise and could not be turned in either direction, the internal rebound adjustment was seized at the end of its range because the adjustment was being turned as I tightened the bottom nut. To fix this I had to unbolt the bottom nut, stick an allen key into the damper, and turn it counter clockwise to break the rebound adjustment free. It actually took a bit of forcing and let out a squeak sound. Then, once it was free, I reattached the bottom nut and started to screw it in, every few turns of the nut I would turn the knob counter clockwise a few clicks to prevent it from getting seized at the end of its range.
Cracks, crazing, eroded seal lips etc. Usually it's micro cracks I see. If you're getting excess weeping of bath oil that's an indicator. You can always clean out the foam rings and under the wipers. It's not hard to take the lowers off again and replace the wipers if you have weeping afterwards. The main reason to perform bath service is to clean and lubricate, but if the seals are thrashed it can only go so far.
Thanks.
I see different oil level specs.
Written guide on DVO site says 35cc damper side, 25cc air side.
Video on DVO with Ronnie says 15cc.
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Personally I have been using 25cc and 35cc in mine, I do it at the start of every year and this is the third year I have done it with no issues.
Too bad there's mixed information on it, I wouldn't be able to tell you which one is actually the correct OEM spec. I do know that the lower nut torque spec in the old PDF guides was wrong (it should have been 10nm but read 20 if I am not mistaken).
If you still are worried about the discrepancy, DVO will probably help if you email them, they answered questions of mine about bearing size and other junk.
Too bad there's mixed information on it, I wouldn't be able to tell you which one is actually the correct OEM spec. I do know that the lower nut torque spec in the old PDF guides was wrong (it should have been 10nm but read 20 if I am not mistaken).
If you still are worried about the discrepancy, DVO will probably help if you email them, they answered questions of mine about bearing size and other junk.
I think the discrepancy may be from two different procedures.
The 15cc spec was from the video of changing travel only. I assume you lose less oil when doing that vs doing a full oil change?
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Looks like they want 15mL each side for 32mm, 25mL for 34mm. I didn't see 35mL for any. Also, it's listed this way in the full service and seal change manuals.
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