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being is
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been using sram pc-48s for a while now but it seems they are always already out to the 0.5 mark on the park tool when I first install them. It's only a short few months before they are getting past the 0.75mm mark and needing replacement. Is my tool miscalibrated or is this just normal? I'd like to find a chain that I could get some more miles out of. Is the pc7 a big improvement and is it 3/32" wide? What about the pc-58? I always assumed the difference in the pc48/58/68 was cosmetic and rustproofing. Is this wrong? How about rohloff chains? What is going to be the most wear resistant? Tired of replacing chains and driveline parts many times a year! Singlespeeding is supposed to be about minimal maintenance... :rolleyes:
 

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King Pin
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Well....

Not to be a smart*ss, but....

Years ago I had a BMW motorcycle, with one of them oil dipsticks with the temperature gauge on top. I was CONSTANTLY looking down at that damn thing, that bike ran HOT! I complained and complained to the dealer. One day he took that there expensive dipstick and literally threw it across the parking lot! He did give me a new stock one, without the thermometer on it. Best move ever! I stopped worrying.

Moral of this story??

I really really like the SRAM PC7-X chains, as they seem to last a LONG time! And in twenty plus years of mountain biking, I've NEVER "measured" a chain....I just run 'em until the kinda look worn out, then replace. Especially on a SS.

Just my two cents, FWIW. (and the PC7-X is 1/8th inch)
 

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The best chain I have used is the Rohloff slt99 trial. I have tried sachs pc99, pc48, pc68, different shimano chains and a wipperman connex that I can't remember the name of. None of them could compete with the Rohloff chain regarding durability. Combine the slt99 with Oil of Rohloff - best lube ever.

There is some good reading on the rohloff website about chains: Rohloff.
 

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Chumpstomper
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xrmattaz said:
Not to be a smart*ss, but....

Years ago I had a BMW motorcycle, with one of them oil dipsticks with the temperature gauge on top. I was CONSTANTLY looking down at that damn thing, that bike ran HOT! I complained and complained to the dealer. One day he took that there expensive dipstick and literally threw it across the parking lot! He did give me a new stock one, without the thermometer on it. Best move ever! I stopped worrying.

Moral of this story??

I really really like the SRAM PC7-X chains, as they seem to last a LONG time! And in twenty plus years of mountain biking, I've NEVER "measured" a chain....I just run 'em until the kinda look worn out, then replace. Especially on a SS.

Just my two cents, FWIW. (and the PC7-X is 1/8th inch)
xrmattaz

F-650 by chance?

I broke my first chain ever last weekend..... my bling bling PC-7X. Ripped a sideplate into 2 pieces. Steep @ss hill, 2:1, loud "ping"! Lucky not to get hurt at all, just stepped off the bike gracefully. Still don't know how I managed that, but I am glad I did. Of course, while sitting down on the side of the trail trying to repair the chain (who knew that there are several sizes of Powerlinks and I had the wrong size in my Camelsak) I managed to rest my elbow and arm on poison ivy or something.

Put a cheap KMC back on for the time being, but it does not look as cool as my 7X.

Mark
 

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pseudo intellectual said:
I've been using sram pc-48s for a while now but it seems they are always already out to the 0.5 mark on the park tool when I first install them. It's only a short few months before they are getting past the 0.75mm mark and needing replacement. Is my tool miscalibrated or is this just normal? I'd like to find a chain that I could get some more miles out of. Is the pc7 a big improvement and is it 3/32" wide? What about the pc-58? I always assumed the difference in the pc48/58/68 was cosmetic and rustproofing. Is this wrong? How about rohloff chains? What is going to be the most wear resistant? Tired of replacing chains and driveline parts many times a year! Singlespeeding is supposed to be about minimal maintenance... :rolleyes:
A "few short months" can be a long time if you're running through mud or water+sand, one tough ride can make a chain replaceable. The tool is only a rough guide, take the chain off and measure it, should be 12" center-to-center. Over 12 1/16, plan to replace it. (Your new pc-48 should be exactly 12")

Minimal maintenance, take chain off (BMX link on PC-7X makes it easy), drop in container, agitate with baths of detergent, solvent, WD40, hang to dry, lube, and ride. Clean cog and chainring. Your drivetrain parts will last longer.
 

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King Pin
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Nah, that would be the R100GS. Airheads always run a little bit "hot".

I have PC-7X chains on four bikes now, do I really need to measure 'em?? Why? To lengthen the time a drivetrain can remain in use?

I'm honestly clueless. The chain/rings/cogs on my wife's Rockhopper are now more than ten years old, regularly used.....and still shifts and runs just fine! I must be missin' something.

SuperClydesdale said:
xrmattaz

F-650 by chance?

I broke my first chain ever last weekend..... my bling bling PC-7X. Ripped a sideplate into 2 pieces. Steep @ss hill, 2:1, loud "ping"! Lucky not to get hurt at all, just stepped off the bike gracefully. Still don't know how I managed that, but I am glad I did. Of course, while sitting down on the side of the trail trying to repair the chain (who knew that there are several sizes of Powerlinks and I had the wrong size in my Camelsak) I managed to rest my elbow and arm on poison ivy or something.

Put a cheap KMC back on for the time being, but it does not look as cool as my 7X.

Mark
 

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MD Bullit said:
center to center?
Center of a pin for simplicity. Could be any point that repeats every inch, such as the distance from right-most edge of an outer plate to the right-most edge of another outer plate 12" (+delta) farther down the chain.
 

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Forget the park tool, just get a tape measure

pseudo intellectual said:
I've been using sram pc-48s for a while now but it seems they are always already out to the 0.5 mark on the park tool when I first install them. It's only a short few months before they are getting past the 0.75mm mark and needing replacement. Is my tool miscalibrated or is this just normal? I'd like to find a chain that I could get some more miles out of. Is the pc7 a big improvement and is it 3/32" wide? What about the pc-58? I always assumed the difference in the pc48/58/68 was cosmetic and rustproofing. Is this wrong? How about rohloff chains? What is going to be the most wear resistant? Tired of replacing chains and driveline parts many times a year! Singlespeeding is supposed to be about minimal maintenance... :rolleyes:
and measure the entire length of the chain.
On a new "unstretched" chain, the pins should line up dead center on the inch marks.
 

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Those Park chain checkers are notoriously inaccurate. Taking a good quality scale and checking c to c is the only way to know exactly how worn a chain is.

I use a set of 12' dial calipers, you can pick them up for $25-$30 if you shop around.
 

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being is
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Furrner said:
Those Park chain checkers are notoriously inaccurate. Taking a good quality scale and checking c to c is the only way to know exactly how worn a chain is.

I use a set of 12' dial calipers, you can pick them up for $25-$30 if you shop around.
Well as long as I know how far off the park tool is I just have to subtract that consistent inaccuracy from every measure. No big deal. Ironic thing is that I used to measure w/ a tape and bought the park tool to speed up the process.

So, one more question. Does running an 1/8" chain (pc-7x) on 3/32" ring and FW screw anything up? I always used the pc48/58 to match the 3/32" measurement of everything else. Will the wider chain rub my RF bash guard?

Seems like there is a variety of favorite chains. Does that mean that they all have the same hardness side plates? (Maybe the $$$$$Rohlof has superior steel??)

Xrmattaz: If a chain stretches out past 1% the rate that the chainring and cog wear at goes up dramatically. Hence the fastidiousness w/ the chain...
 
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