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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I finally got my DT Carbon fork and installed it about 3 days ago. First impression: WOW! It is very nice and very light (1258g including remote lockout - uncut steerer)

I removed my SID WC and installed the DT....BUT i wasn't able to fit the remote lockout! It would not fit with Grip-shifters(see 2nd picture below). Bummer. I then called up a friend of mine of the swisspower team and he said:" No - the lockout won't fit with Grip-shift.You need to get rid of the longer handle of the lever by using a hacksaw...then gently smoothen with a Dremel tool so it eventually fits.Ah - and don't forget to use Loctite at the bolt as well...." Cool ! I'd say about half of the guys that will mount this fork are using Grip-shift...and all of them will face the same problem. Sometimes i think the designers need a lesson or two or maybe they need to be more on the bikes to know what they actually design.

Anyway - i did what you had to do: i simply cut that longer lever off. Now it can be mounted in a ok position. Well - the lockout cable exits the top of the fork in a straight line. When you turn the handlebar to the right it will hit the frame.Well done...

When i finally installed my discbrake i faced the next problem: The cableguide is on the backside of the fork. By installing it in the supposed position the brakeline will have to come up from behind and interfere with the shiftcables above.Very weird. Anyway - i wasn't able to find a suitable way to have the brakehose come up so i eventually had to mount an extra cableguide in the front. so i now have the hose mounted in a regular, more common way without any problems. Once again those guys should have done it this way in 1st place.

Already around the house i thought that the given air pressures of the manual seemed to be on the low/soft side. I already put a lot more than they suggested otherwise the fork would blow through it's travel too easily. Anyway - 1st ride yesterday and it did perform pretty good. It was in the rougher stuff, steep downhill sections at speed where i definitely missed some compression damping.I'd like a bit more progression towards the end of the stroke.But this might be solved using even higher air pressure....we will see. 1 hour into the ride the lockout would flip into open position automatically...the tiny bolt attaching the remote already came lose.You know-that's the bolt my friend told me to use Loctite on...

So far a bit mixed feelings. I really can't understand the 2 major setup glitches when trying to install the fork.

Oh - i forgot about the weight: with cut steerer mine is now 1228g.

The bike as pictured is 7,6 kilos /16,7 lbs....not bad for a spare "winterbike":thumbsup:
 

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Nino I'm surprised you don't run your brakes Moto style [ front brake on the right ] with you being a motocrosser.I race Moto & enduro as well & can't get used to front brake on the left.On my DT EXC150 the rear cable mount works very well moto style.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
xc71 said:
Nino I'm surprised you don't run your brakes Moto style [ front brake on the right ] with you being a motocrosser.I race Moto & enduro as well & can't get used to front brake on the left.On my DT EXC150 the rear cable mount works very well moto style.:thumbsup:
I know-a couple of my former mx-buddies run the brakes moto-style but i have no problems. Just yesterday i met a guy who had a sore shoulder: He borrowed a buddies bike, wheelied down the street....and landed on his back because he applied the front brake instead of the rear:D
 

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That fork sure looks nice on there. How's the stifness? Keep us updated as you get more experience with the fork:thumbsup:
 

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I wish they would put a decent oil damper in that thing, the thing's a joke. A simple orrifice rebound, with a one-way valve to allow more oil flow on the compression. But no shimstack what so ever... Very nice chassis, though.


Ole.
 

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Ole said:
I wish they would put a decent oil damper in that thing, the thing's a joke. A simple orrifice rebound, with a one-way valve to allow more oil flow on the compression. But no shimstack what so ever... Very nice chassis, though.
It's kind of surprising that some enterprising company wouldn't see a market to make real custom dampers for some of the more interesting forks on the market.
 

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Well the fork is so expensive and rare already, there isn't going to be much of a market for custome parts.
 

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Im running the XMC 130, with my weight it recommends 50psi, at that i found it wayyyy to soggy, now im running at 100psi and it still needs more, im thinking around 130 will be roughly right.

same with the rear shock, double the recommended and its still soggy

I will say though the DT stuff is so incredibly smooth, all the way through its travel both front and rear are spectacular, there is no high or low spots. the remote launch system works very well aswell, the way it can be tailored to suit riders preference is a big plus for me:thumbsup:
 

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I used the older version of XRC100RL. It was 1402gr :S and its stiffnes was like my SID wc... But was nor working as my SID...

But DT Swiss has changed something on the fork and cut some weight and give more stiffness to fork... But first I can't see something different...

Can you tell...
 

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Does it use 32mm stanchions? How's the stiffness and steering precision?

Wow, so it's simple port orifice damping for both compression and rebound? How do they even make a top flight fork like that with out a proper damper? Also, who'd shell out that kind of money for a fork without a proper damper?

Rockyuphill, this would have totally been up Stratos' ally were they still around.
 

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I believe it uses 28.6mm stanctions, same as old SID/Judy etc. I guess it should be possible to put a 2008 SID Motion Control damper in it, with some custom made end pieces. And it would be great to put a dual air system in it too, as the air/coil combo that DT uses is far too regressive, causing excessive fork dive for most riders.


Ole.
 

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It weighs between 7,3-7,4 kg depending on tires (Tufo/Dugast) and cassettes.

It's alu bolts, I use them erverywhere execpt between the seatpost and the seat. Disc rotors, caliper, seatclamp etc all alu. As long as you use correct torque, and change them every year, no problem.

I have used them in races like Transalp when I was riding a rigid fork aswell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
LAN said:
I had the same problem with the lockout, but I manage to mount it on my brakelever.
well-it would be way too far out of reach for my needs. I don't want to take off my hands when flipping the lever. the way mine is mounted it can be reached with the thumb easily.

By the way - i like the lasso-style of your front brake hose;) ...no honestly - that's not too good looking. But as mentioned above it's hard to find a setup with the standard, back mounted cableguide.
 
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