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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am interested in finding out whether anyone has converted to tubeless with the DT Swiss XR4.1D rims, and if so, whether it is necessary to drill the valve hole so that a Stans value will fit. I would really prefer not to have to do that so would like to know before I order the conversion kit.
 

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No drilling required

GMM said:
I am interested in finding out whether anyone has converted to tubeless with the DT Swiss XR4.1D rims, and if so, whether it is necessary to drill the valve hole so that a Stans value will fit. I would really prefer not to have to do that so would like to know before I order the conversion kit.
Just order the Stans with the Presta valve rimstrip, I run that with my DT XR4.1d's. No problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Great...

So it seems I can go either Stan's or DT Swiss with no problem. I believe both have the removable core which is good. My only concern with DT Swiss was the double sided rim tape seemed like it might be a bit of a chore to install, but probably not that big of deal.

Thanks for following up!
 

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Do It Yourself
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GMM said:
So it seems I can go either Stan's or DT Swiss with no problem. I believe both have the removable core which is good. My only concern with DT Swiss was the double sided rim tape seemed like it might be a bit of a chore to install, but probably not that big of deal.

Thanks for following up!
The DT Swiss tubeless kit (made by Eclipse) is much better than Stan's. First it's a tighter fit. You can inflate tires with a handpump and get them to seal. Also the DT valve stem is separate from the strips. With Stan's, the vavle stem is integrated can separate from the strip and then you need a whole new strip.

The double sided tape work to hold the rim strip in place. It's no trouble to install.
 

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trail rat
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GMM said:
So it seems I can go either Stan's or DT Swiss with no problem. I believe both have the removable core which is good. My only concern with DT Swiss was the double sided rim tape seemed like it might be a bit of a chore to install, but probably not that big of deal.

Thanks for following up!
I am unearthing an old, old thread, I know. I am pretty good at jumping through MTBR search hoops, and this is the only one specific to this wheel set and DT vs Stan's kits. :rolleyes:

I have been tubeless on my 29er for almost a year, and recently did ghetto tubeless on three other wheel sets (second for the double boinger and two for the rigid SS), waiting for some Stans rim strips to arrive.

I have a new riding partner, re-passioned with a new bike (Blur LT2 that he loves), but he is getting flats, flats, flats. Three today, one spare tube from each of us and the third meant he got to walk while I finished the ride and got my truck to drive back and get him and the flatted bike. Over an hour retrieval time, and he still has not done the downhill portion, just the seven mile climb to get there, and then a mile or two walk. :eek:

Anyway, he has the DT Swiss XR4.1d wheels. What is the verdict on Stan's vs the DT Swiss kit? Does the DT kit seal punctures? I have faith in my ability to get Stan's to work, since I have access to a kompressor (sic ;)), but if the DT kit is more reliable, or easier to setup, we can order that.

He must have been a bottle of herbicide or a sprayer in a previous life, with his bad goat head thorn karma........ :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, I am mechancially challenged so was actually never able to get the DT Swiss system installed. I screwed up the double-sided tape trying to install it. Also, I kept denting by DT Swiss rims, even though I am an XC rider (or was at least). I switched to real Tubless Mavic's 823's and couldn't be happier. One of my favorite upgrades ever. Sorry, no real insight on the DT Swiss rims and system.

slocaus said:
I am unearthing an old, old thread, I know. I am pretty good at jumping through MTBR search hoops, and this is the only one specific to this wheel set and DT vs Stan's kits. :rolleyes:

I have been tubeless on my 29er for almost a year, and recently did ghetto tubeless on three other wheel sets (second for the double boinger and two for the rigid SS), waiting for some Stans rim strips to arrive.

I have a new riding partner, re-passioned with a new bike (Blur LT2 that he loves), but he is getting flats, flats, flats. Three today, one spare tube from each of us and the third meant he got to walk while I finished the ride and got my truck to drive back and get him and the flatted bike. Over an hour retrieval time, and he still has not done the downhill portion, just the seven mile climb to get there, and then a mile or two walk. :eek:

Anyway, he has the DT Swiss XR4.1d wheels. What is the verdict on Stan's vs the DT Swiss kit? Does the DT kit seal punctures? I have faith in my ability to get Stan's to work, since I have access to a kompressor (sic ;)), but if the DT kit is more reliable, or easier to setup, we can order that.

He must have been a bottle of herbicide or a sprayer in a previous life, with his bad goat head thorn karma........ :confused:
 

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Slocaus I wonder if I just get a whole new wheelset with rims that were made to be tubeless and a different tire altogether. And then just keep my dt swiss with tubes and be able to change tires easier??

Let me know what you think...I will defer to your better judgement. I just cant handle another 3 puncture day after a 7 mile climb.
 

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the dt kit was pretty simple to install. Just make sure you clean the rim before applying the double-sided tape.

Another key when applying the rim strip is to stick something through the valve hole to hold the tape in place while you are stretching it onto the rim.

Other than that, it just require one lil extra step but is worth it in the end!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I should mention that since I have swtiched to real tubeless, I haven't had a flat in 3 years! Unbelievable how much better it is. You can probably due the conversion thing, but I couldn't be happier with the simplicity and effectiveness of UST rims.

Okie Dokie said:
Slocaus I wonder if I just get a whole new wheelset with rims that were made to be tubeless and a different tire altogether. And then just keep my dt swiss with tubes and be able to change tires easier??

Let me know what you think...I will defer to your better judgement. I just cant handle another 3 puncture day after a 7 mile climb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well, some people do the ghetto set-up where they use old inner tubes as a rubber lining. So maybe the right rim strip would work. I'm just giving you what I read in the directions, but maybe they were just a little biased. Thinking more about it...perhaps you're correct in that enough stans, plus a tight rim strip would work.
Oh well, what do I know; I use real UST because I couldn't even put on the damn tape.

006_007 said:
wow, I wouldnt have guessed it would have troubles holding air. I assumed the tire sits on top of the rim strip which is pressed against the rim. seems kind of sketchy that a piece of double sided tape is used to seal.
 

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006_007 said:
wow, I wouldnt have guessed it would have troubles holding air. I assumed the tire sits on top of the rim strip which is pressed against the rim. seems kind of sketchy that a piece of double sided tape is used to seal.
It might, but you should be fine using some electrical tape to seal the holes. The rim strip is tight enough that it will fit in the center of the rim on its own accord.
 

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CharacterZero said:
It might, but you should be fine using some electrical tape to seal the holes. The rim strip is tight enough that it will fit in the center of the rim on its own accord.
K, that makes sense - I would just leave the fibre tape that I already have there to cover the holes and then throw the eclipse/dt kit on top of that. I wonder if the double sided tape is used to prevent the rim strip from rotating on the rim under braking :confused:
 

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006_007 said:
K, that makes sense - I would just leave the fibre tape that I already have there to cover the holes and then throw the eclipse/dt kit on top of that. I wonder if the double sided tape is used to prevent the rim strip from rotating on the rim under braking :confused:
Probably not, since the tire sits on the very thin edge of the strip (against the sidewall) when fully inflated. I would guess that it actually is there to seal the holes first, and then ensure that the rim strip sits centered in the wheel.
 

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Awright this is disgusting

Disgusting simple.

I've done about 10 wheels of my own, all 29ers for my two bikes. This setup on the DT Swiss XR4.2d is waaaay easy. I'm jealous.

I used the Stan's NoTubes Standard kit as suggested on the NoTubes website. Drilled out the inner presta hole for the valve to rimstrip junction. Removed the original rims strips. Then followed the instructions from the site for this rim:
Remove rim tape and install 1 or 2 layers of included Universal Kit Tape, pull the tape tightly while applying and overlap 2". Carefully cut a hole for the valve stem. On these Rims you should drop your rim strip into your soap and water before installing. The slippery soap will help it fit in the rim cavity.
I used two layers. Dipped the strip in my soapy water and installed. Ran my thumbnail around each bead to make sure the strip was seated below the bead. Then I installed the tire, soaped the bejesus out of each tire bead, removed the valve core, and hit it with the compressor. Boom, instant seal! Woo hoo!

Let the air out, hung the tire with the valve down, and used the NoTubes injector syringe thingie to shoot 2 ounces of fluid per these instructions. Rotated the valve to the top, went to the compressor, and instant seal. Then I screwed in the valve stem, aired to 30psi with the pump and started the shake and lay on the bucket procedure. Did the second wheel, and then continued to flip and shake at about 15 minute intervals.

I had lots of foam and suds bubbling around the bead for the first hour or so, but only lost about 3 psi, so I think most of that sudsing was from the soap under the rim strip seeping out around the bead. I would loose about 5psi every hour for the first two hours, then it held at 30psi. I went to 40psi and continued the flip and shake and sit on the buckets about every 15-20 minutes. They have held 40psi for the last hour.

Disgusting...... :D :thumbsup:

Photo # 1 is the wheels on the buckets.
Photo # 2 is the only spot I have showing the Stan's fluid on the sidewall, and no spots on the tread, even though I found about six more thorns. ;)
Photo # 3 is the rim chinger that caused the third pinch flat on Wednesday, after it was fixed. This baby is golden and ready to ride.
 

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I have setup 2 friends' DT wheelsets, one a 5.1, and the other the 29er/470 wheelset. For both, I used Stans rimstrips I had at the shop. They have been fine since the beginning of the year. I like the Stans stuff, because if you do need a new strip, lots of places have them around. DT kits are usually not in stock.
 
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